| Author | Message | ||
     Tony302 |
ok I jumped the starter and nothing is dead. now my question is I seen online prices are crazy what year sportster starters would fit on the 99 x1..i already downloaded on how to remove it any other tips on how to remove it?? | ||
| Jolly |
how much did you find it for? I am looking at replacing the starter on my new motor for my S2...the donor bike must have been sitting in the rain...everything look like HE**! I'm spending a lot of time cleaning up this motor and replacing known weak points. I think the cheapest I have found one is 275.00 to 350.00 with other prices up to 450.00....for a starter!? | ||
| Tony302 |
havnt found one yet those the prices im trying to avoid | ||
| Harleyelf |
DBElectrical on ebay has one for $140/free shipping. Got a lovely 1.8kw unit from them last year for my fat boy. | ||
| Blks1l |
A 99 Sportster starter will fit, actually probably from the late 80's through early 2000's. | ||
| Koz5150 |
Before you go tearing the bike apart, try two things. 1. Check your grounding strap between the frame and the rear swing arm. On my M2 the washer between the strap and where it connected to the frame rusted and caused what appeared to be a bad starter issue. 2. Open your starter soliniod and confirm that the connections are clean. They could get nasty down their in the salt air. Good Luck | ||
| Jolly |
I just found this on ebay. its a 1.4KW starter in chrome for a sportster. 1 year warranty for 169.00. "more than 10 available" so its a company with a production selling them cheaper than HD suppliers. maybe they have it in black or raw finish? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-STARTER-MOTOR-BUELL -S2-S3-S3T-THUNDERBOLT-S1-LIGHTNING-M2-CYCLONE-BLA ST-/121099948664?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories& hash=item1c321e9278&vxp=mtr | ||
| Hootowl |
It's probably not the starter. Disconnect the battery. Open the solenoid cover on the starter (no need to remove the starter) and pull out the plunger. Inspect the plunger ring contact and the two side contacts that are attached to the solenoid housing. Most likely, one of the side contacts has eroded to the point that the plunger can not contact them both at the same time, given the amount of force the electromagnet can apply (the current for which is drawn through the ignition switch, so a bad switch can cause the plunger to not have enough force to make contact at the end of its travel). Put the plunger back in the solenoid housing, making sure that it doesn't slide out under spring pressure. Reconnect the battery. Momentarily push the plunger into the contacts. The bike should kick over. Be mentally prepared for a spark and a noise. You do not want to jerk your hand away at this point because the plunger and spring may fly out and short the contacts to ground. There will be a large electrical arc and a pretty good pop. This is bad. If you can get your bike to crank by manually pushing the plunger, your starter is fine. If the side contacts are shot, you can replace them without removing the starter. A solenoid rebuild kit can be had for under $50 last I checked. | ||
| Harleyelf |
That same supplier has black for $135. I got instant shipping from DB and they also offer a one year warranty.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHROME-HARLEY-STARTER- XL-XLC-XLH-XLL-XLR-SPORTSTER-/130773512951?pt=Moto rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e72b572f7&vxp= mtr Chrome for $139 Several used starters for $50 - $60 | ||
| Coxster |
I haven't had to rebuild mine yet, but the Denso parts used in this starter have a lot of parts in common with Toyota starters ( Denso is owned by Toyota ) I'll bet a local Mom-Pop shop can replace any bad internal parts at a reasonable price. The replacement starters will probably work, but they're all chinese reverse engineered knock-offs. They're the reason I got out of the Reman business at Case-New Holland | ||
| Tony302 |
Well I did try the solenoid took it out clean around it push it in I get power but nothing hear that click in the motor but no turning..I left the battery charging over night check ground power conectiins for dirt rust nothing..so it just leads to the starter motor being the issue.. | ||
| Tony302 |
Harleyelf where did you find used starters at?? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Go to ebay and search "Starter Harley XL"; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Davidson-Sportster- Starter-2002-XL883-1200-91-Up-/121230771229?pt=Mot orcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c39eac41d&vxp =mtr This guy has thousands of feedbacks and 100% satisfaction in the last year. http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-Harley-Davidson-Sportst er-XL-STARTER-STARTING-MOTOR-/131047101762?pt=Moto rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83041542&vxp= mtr Pinwall ships fast and will replace or refund defective parts fast. http://www.ebay.com/itm/XL-Harley-Davidson-Sportst er-and-Buell-Starter-/171190799387?pt=Motorcycles_ Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dbc44c1b&vxp=mtr This is just too cheap not to mention. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
You can get a remote starter button that mounts on the end of the solenoid for around 20 bucks.Black, chrome, what ever you want and it will be there when you need it. | ||
| Tony302 |
ok today I hooked the jumper cables to my car and then to the battery conection on the bike.. the starter turns but is not very strong and the bike did not start now it turns but very weak so I am guessing is not enough to start the bike..it still will hesitate to turn same thing it did before it stop turning last week, so my guess is still the starter. | ||
| Kilroy |
my guess you need to replace the battery - your starter is turning | ||
| Harleyelf |
Make sure - remove your bike's battery from the circuit. Disconnect both cables from the bike's battery and clamp them in your jumper cables. Do not run your car's motor during the test! If it still turns over slowly and you have checked the ground connection from the frame to the black battery cable, then your starter is at fault. The car battery should make it spin like a top. Try grounding the black jumper cable to your footpeg bolt. If that changes things, your ground cable is corroded at the frame. I hope by now you have replaced the circuit breakers. They are cheap and available. Take your plugs out and try again. Still slow? Toasted starter! | ||
| Tony302 |
circuit breakers where could I find those?? I swear some of these auto parts store don't have anything when you need it...now I did disconnect the battery from the circuit when I did the test and the only way the starter would turn over was with the car running.. now I will try the foot peg bolt. and check the conection to the frame give it a secong look maybe the first time I was too quick with it. how ever I did jump the starter direct to to the car battery and all I heard was spinning but nothing too fast. | ||
| Harleyelf |
The circuit breakers are used on many Harleys; take one to the stealership with you and they'll have it on the shelf. If the starter turns slowly when laid on the battery terminals without cables, it is toast. | ||
| Tony302 |
Ok now as far as the removal would I need to remover the header for clearance or would it back off far enough to lift it and pull out | ||
| Hootowl |
You should be able to tetris it out of there. | ||
| Tony302 |
great! well I went and pulled it off lol should of waited..only question I got I liked in the exhaust port and it looks like both vales are either open or closed at the same length is that normal I took a pic i'll try to upload. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If it has ever run and you have not messed with the cams, your valve timing is correct. Raise the wheel, take the plugs out, put the transmission in high gear, and rotate the engine through a revolution by turning the wheel. As long as both valves move up and down, trust them to be doing it at the right time. This is a good time to clean the threads on your exhaust port studs and change the exhaust flange gaskets. Stainless steel flange nuts rust and deform less. Ace hardware. | ||
| Tony302 |
thanks ok then, I will keep going, yes Harleyelf I agree with you exhaust flange gaskets and the exhaust port studs need to be clean plus the stud nuts were really loose. | ||
| Hootowl |
There is some valve overlap on the exhaust/intake stroke near tdc, so both valves open is normal. | ||
| Harleyelf |
A lot of corrosive gas moves near those studs; it's good to chase the threads with a die. The original nuts are rather soft; once they deform it is difficult to get a wrench on them. I like stainless steel flange nuts. |
