G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through November 19, 2013 » Battery removal 1997 M2 Cyclone « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gian4
Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all
I've got to replace the battery in my cyclone. To remove it do have to remove the rear body work? If so is the only hardware holding it the torx bolts under the seat?
Thanks
Gian4
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jim2
Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do mine without removing the body work. I use a couple of long extensions on a socket and reach the battery strap from the rear of the bike. I can move hoses and tilt battery just right and get it out on the left side of the bike. Took me 1 1/2 hours the first time I did it. Ten minutes after that. I have a 2000 M2 so I don't know if there is any difference in regard to this job.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jim2
Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2013 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

to answer your bodywork question though, aside from the torx bolts you also have to remove the tail light and unbolt to lift the rear of the tank. Again this is for my 2000 M2 so I don't know if it's the same for the 97.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jayvee
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

for many things, I only unbolt the four torx bolts holding the body down, then lift the rear of the tank to get the front extensions out. Then, prop up the body with a box or something, and I can reach just about anything. I replaced my battery couple years ago, and don't recall having to move the body, I'm sure it can be done either way. Tilting up the body is pretty easy, just don't lose the washers and stuff. As I recall, I glued rubber washers under stainless washers under the four torx screws. Then silicone-seal glued the rubber side to the body plastic.
To be honest, I can't wait to change batteries again, I got the AGM sealed battery last time, Oddessy I think, but now I want one of those EVO brand two and a quarter pound batteries. Costs a bit more, but a 9 pound weight savings, is worth it to me.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gian4
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the help guys
I've tried with socket extension and I can't get the socket onto the bolt head that holds the battery strap on. There's not enough clearance between the socket head(10mm I'm guessing)and the frame. Guess I'll have to remove the body panel and use an open end wrench. Is that battery strap bolt a 10mm and does anyone know the size of the four under seat torx bolts?
Thanks guys for the help
Gian4
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Firstbuell
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

me?

I cut a slot in my bodywork -
this enables a wrench to access the anti-vibe nut
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jayvee
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

T-27 I think. I had to buy a couple when I first got my M2.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Kc_zombie
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some will say I am stating the obvious but...

Always disconnect the negative cable first!

If you disconnect the negative cable first, and reconnect it last, then the bike is not electrically connected to the negative battery terminal. Then you can disconnect the positive battery terminal with minimal risk, so if your wrench touches any part of the frame nothing will happen because the circuit is open.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jim2
Posted on Friday, November 01, 2013 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I forgot to mention that one of my extensions has a wobble head on it and I use a deep well socket. I believe 10mm is the right size. The wobble head gives me just enough clearance to do the job.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration