| Author | Message | ||
     X3rs |
I snapped off a header stud FLUSH with the barrel on the front barrel. Why, don't know. But it snapped and the nut on the other stud fell off. How to get it out and what to replace it with? Perhaps a better stud? I have tried easy-outs before and never can get a hole drilled well enough in the broken HARDENED bolt(in this case stud) to get the easy-out to grip the broken item. Hence, very sad. Special drills? Drills with left handed twists? Does the barrel have to come off if a shop tries it? Ideas to get it out? | ||
| Beardo |
I did that twice on Harley heads. Did both with the head on the bike. Both times used Time-Certs and had great results. (Message edited by beardo on September 30, 2013) | ||
| Davefl |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16029.html Used one many times. Install, drill, tap, and install new stud.. | ||
| X1bueller |
Happened to me several times. I drilled and used and easy-out. The rear head is the worst because it is difficult to get the proper angle to drill. You may need to pull the head. | ||
| Two_seasons |
What Davefl said. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've tried and failed with the easy out the first time. The second time I welded up my own jig and tried to drill and tap, didn't get the hole *quite* square and had steel and aluminum mixed in there, and broke the stupid tap anyway, so there I was again.  Use the guide tool. I bought one made of plastic from ebay, not nearly as nice as the Jim's tool, but about half the price. It looks, well, like plastic, so who knows how well it will work or if they are still being sold. It's in the tool box for a rainy day (note to self, move it to jump bag with spare latch, wheel bearing, spacers, and CPS before next big trip). If you were closer I'd be happy to let you borrow mine... we know the jims tools work perfectly. I'd like to have somebody check my cheap alternative on *their* head first.  (In other words, if you know you have the problem, pony up for the $95 tool from Al. I spent more than that on tungsten carbide dremel bits getting out my attempts to "save money" by not buying it). | ||
| Reepicheep |
(oh, and with the Jims tool and a left handed drill bit, the old stud may very well just spin right out and you won't have to tap anything or use any kind of insert). | ||
| Beardo |
I have one of the plastic fixtures you speak of and it worked just fine. After I drilled it out, that's when I did the Time-Cert. Sorry, I probably wasn't clear before. | ||
| Coxster |
I gave up and pulled the head. $40 for the machine shop to replace both studs, and a few bucks in gaskets and o-rings. | ||
| Buellistic |
Reverse flute drill ??? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Harbor freight generally has the reverse flute drill bits on the shelf these days. | ||
| Jramsey |
Reverse flute drill ??? Left handed(anti-clockwise) drill. (Message edited by Jramsey on September 30, 2013) | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
Should the studs be replaced after so many miles? Is there a certain grade that's better to use? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
No let sleeping dogs lie. Do make sure you mounting hardware is up to snuff though. If the system is under strain from being mounted strange, metal fatigue will take over. One other personal gripe I have: I hate those interference nuts that they want us to use. I can't tell if it's actually tight or just well being interfered with! I swapped mine out with normal fine pitch nuts when I had to replace one of my studs. | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
Thanks Nate. I'll go over mine later today. MM | ||
| Buellistic |
EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... Have a 1997 S3T with 111,819.6 miles on it as of the last ride ... Have never had a BROKEN exhaust stud ... | ||
| Beardo |
Buellistic, keep in mind that some of these bikes have changed hands, sometimes multiple times, and have lead less than ideal lives. I had a stud snap on my S1 trying to remove the system. Rusted up solid, and felt I was very fortunate that the other three actually came off without snapping too. | ||
| Oldog |
try changing the studs once in a while it also helps, all bushings and mounts as stated above should be checked on these old bikes as the newest is now 11 years old. | ||
| Sdecesare |
I had one broken in forward cyl upper stud, we used HSHA rod and TIG welded a steel T handle to it - stuck the tungsten out about 3/4 inch from the cup and turned the gas up - worked great - tight space for arc | ||
| X3rs |
No one has commented on any 'better' studs out there. Are there any? | ||
| Davefl |
I have heard of people using studs from ARP. I don't know the part number but there stuff is top notch. http://arp-bolts.com | ||
| Reepicheep |
Speaking as a multiple stud breaker (two on the M2, one on the XB9) and multiple Buell owner (M2 then XB9 then XB12)... I can say that the stock studs are "strong enough" when other things aren't screwed up. The M2 popped studs as a result of a flawed original design for the front hanger (later fixed). The XB9 broke a stud because I lost a bolt holding the front hanger on and didn't notice in time. So in all three of my cases, the fix for the broken stud was to fix the problem that was stressing the studs, not to put in a stronger stud. Not to say a better stud would hurt anything... just to say that's not the root problem. | ||
| Buellistic |
EXHAUST SYSTEM ASSEMBLY Class 101, just PM me if you want a copy ... May the long lasting exhaust system be with you ??? (Message edited by buellistic on October 02, 2013) | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/6 69332.html?1330543541 http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?Record ID=751 | ||
| X3rs |
APR (200-2401)carburetor studs? What is "Jim's tool" for removing broken studs. it was in the post I was directed to by the last post | ||
| Jramsey |
The Jim's tool is a drill guide, here's a pic of one that I made. It uses the round spud to center it in the port and the good stud to to index it. Has a hardened 1/4" drill bushing in the other side to drill thru.  (Message edited by Jramsey on October 04, 2013) | ||
| X3rs |
Jarmsey - you should sell these. I would buy one ASAP for this job. The one I saw in the photo on the American Sport Bike web (for 95.00) did note seem to have a bushing or round spud to center | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
Just picked up a set of the ARP studs today. The original studs came right out(seeing that I had to remove the header to remove the cam cover to replace the oil pump drive gear.....yea It's going). Just glad I caught it before it shredded. I'll post some pics in the other thread to show how thin the worm gear got. | ||
| Jramsey |
Jims tool with bushing and spud pic. http://www.bikebandit.com/jims-exhaust-stud-drill- plate Looks like now they even supply a transfer punch with it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good job catching it! Another tuber motor saved. |
