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Tll130
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2013 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Changed the spark plugs 91 no ethanol in tank fuel pump primes fine clutch in press the start button get a fire then it just sounds like clicks spark plugs are set to .038 on both plug wires are in good condition no broken wires I can see after a visual inspection anyone have any clue?
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Oldog
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2013 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

initial guess
bad cell in battery

crank pop click
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Tll130
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2013 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Copy that ill try switching batteries out with another tommorrow and see if that works. Could it be the starter? If its not that?
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Kalali
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could be the starter solenoid. Two screws and you can open it up and clean the contacts. Make sure you disconnect the battery beforehand and be careful to reassemble the contacts properly.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could I wire jumper cables from my car to the bike to see if its the battery? Would that work or would I have to get a valid working battery in it? Or would a battery tester at my local auto parts store be able to tell me?
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok so found out battery is bad and that's why it wouldn't start now it won't stay started because either the 02 sensor or engine temp sensor
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The computer ignores the O2 sensor until it's up to temp.
I would vote the engine temp sensor.
Check the wire first. Maybe just rubbed through!
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone have the location of the engine temp sensor I can find the part but I can't find it's location on the bike in my manuals
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Steveford
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 09:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Down in the center of the rear cylinder head.
You'll need a slotted socket for the wire.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Inbetween the 2 cylinders or on the back of the rear? Nvm I believe I found it on the top of the rear cylinder from visual inspection no frayed/broken wires I believe the next step is replacing it.

(Message edited by Tll130 on September 28, 2013)
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2013 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On a 1999-2000 model years the sensor is mounted right next to the rear plug. Much easier to replace than the 01-02 model years. Compare the temp reading between the intake air and engine head using ECMSpy and see if they track at room temperature. If the readings are the same or close, the no start is probably caused by something else.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2013 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2000 rear head has the recessed ETS. I think you are on the right track with the diagnosis.

Travis, American Sport Bike sells them...and the slotted socket for easy removal.
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Tll130
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2013 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you and I don't have ecm spy right now I'm not in a hurry as riding season is just about over for me anyways I'm just doing it as I get free time had a plumbing job to do today for some extra cash so I haven't even touched her today
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Kalali
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"My 2000 rear head has the recessed ETS."

Just out of curiosity, what's your bike's production date? Assuming the rear head is OEM from the factory. Thanks.
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Tll130
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not sure how to tell if you tell me how ill let you know
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's easy.
If your engine head temp sensor is visible from the left side of the bike, it is the '99-early '00.
If you can't see anything on the rear head but a "mystery wire" exiting the center of the tunnel, you have the 2000 and up rear head.
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Tll130
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I have the mystery wire lol the sensor is on the top of my rear head.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know why but those head temp sensors crapped out on the earlier F.I bikes.
Mine only lasted around 13,000 before it died.
BUT the replacement hasn't done anything bad since then and the bike has well over 80K on it now.


BEFORE you spend money though:
Get a can of WD40 and pop off the seat.
take each fuse+relay out one at a time clean and give them a shot of WD40.
Reseat them to make sure a good connection is made.

I have had to do this to mine more than once.
They look all clean and dry in there but the back of the box is pretty much open to the environment.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2013 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kalali:
Not sure, but wasn't early as last five digits are 01947. I'm the second owner. Bought from a used bike dealer.

I can't state this as fact, but I'm inclined to believe ETS sensors don't last long if bike is idled for long periods.

My 2000 X1 Lightning sat at a used bike dealer into the winter months, idled a lot for prospective customers, then sat until the next idle period for "the show".

When I got it delivered in December 2010, the bike would not idle and would sputter when doing a WOT at highway speed. Wasn't sure what I just bought, started digging in the Knowledge Vault archives and found ETS and O2 sensor were a good bet.

I replaced the ETS and O2 sensors. Both from American Sport Bike. Two days later, I rode it to Philly and back, no issues. Put over 2100 miles on that trip. This was the first trip I made with this bike. No history, and no issues once both were replaced.
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