| Author | Message | ||
     01x1buell |
well im tired of tis bike , how do i test my stator? when i fix it i am movin on to somethin faster. any help on this matter. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Deep breath, Neil. Unplug the voltage regulator from the two-prong connector that holds it to the stator. It should be near the rear shock's reservoir. Measure the resistance between the two leads. It'll be under an ohm if you have no shorts. Measure the resistance between each lead and ground. It should be infinite. No electric path at all between the stator and ground. Now, with the stator still disconnected, start the bike and measure the AC voltage between the two stator pins. You want 28 - 60 volts AC before the regulator. If all this checks out, connect it back up and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be 12.6 volts DC or so before you start the bike, and should go up to 14.1 - 14.7 volts DC when you start the bike. If it goes above 15 volts your regulator is not doing its job. To change the stator, get a Sportster stator from an aftermarket supplier like Drag Specialties. Remove the primary oil and take the primary cover off. Install a locking bar between the clutch basket and primary drive and remove the primary chain with its sprocket and the clutch basket. Remember that the clutch basket nut is left hand thread. The stator is held on by four torx-headed bolts. Apply a bit of permatex or similar goop to the wire grommet and clean the hole it goes through well to avoid a puddle of oil under the starter. This is a great time to change the main seal around the motor drive shaft if you haven't already. It's an eight dollar part. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well thanks james but i can not start te bike cause my bike killed anoter battery and left me stranded . i can not start it cause battery is dead, i knwo te vr is fine so maybe i sould just buy te stator and replace it. ten sell te bike.. i do need a faster one. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Take the battery out of your truck or car and cable it up to your bike. The bike's draw won't hurt the big battery and you will be able to start it for diagnostic purposes. You can check for shorts to ground and resistance through the coils without starting the bike. You'll be sorry if you buy a stator and it turns out to have been the regulator or a loose connection on a good vr. (Message edited by harleyelf on September 01, 2013) | ||
| 01x1buell |
james can you pm me your # and i can call u and explain everytin. | ||
| Alfau |
Buell :- weapons of self-destruction. | ||
| 01x1buell |
so if my bike keeps killin my batteries it must be te stator or te vr correct. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i need to fix it so i can sell it for a faster bike (Message edited by 01x1buell on September 02, 2013) | ||
| Oldog |
so if my bike keeps killin my batteries it must be te stator or te vr correct. It can be the connectors as well, or possibly the VR ground, unless you test you really do not know. } | ||
| 01x1buell |
is there any way to test VR out of bike since my batt is dead. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
What is the brand name of your batteries? Just curious. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it's not charging the battery, but you can charge the battery on something else, then it is likely the stator. If it is actually taking a battery and making it so it won't hold a charge anymore, it could be a defective battery, or it could be a bad voltage regulator. If you tried to jump start the bike from a running car because you are having a stator problem, you may have very well fried the voltage regulator as well, so now you have a pretty tricky "two broken parts" problem. If you can put in (or jumper to) a known good and charged battery (not in a running car) and start the bike, and put a voltmeter on the battery terminals while it is running, the voltage you see may tell you something important. Low voltage == dead stator. High voltage == dead voltage regulator. | ||
| 01x1buell |
well i tried to charge it and it wont old a charge so te vr must of killed it. | ||
| Oldog |
Question Why can't the car be running? it has a voltage regulation system that limits the alternator output and they are typically 12 volt..... | ||
| 01x1buell |
i tried to jump i wit my truck battery and it did notin. | ||
| Rick_a |
Cheap batteries usually die early in these bikes. Most AGM types do ok. If you get your battery from most auto places or big chain stores it'll probably not do well. By all means, when you get things sorted out sell it to someone who will enjoy the ride. I find the bikes plenty fast for any semi-legal purposes on the street. Slow for the racetrack?...sure, if you're past that level. If your intent is blasting down the highway at ludicrous speed than a tuber is not the bike for you. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
A running car is capable killing a bike's regulator because the bike has a shunt-type circuit. The bike regulator will try to crowbar the voltage down to where it is designed to. If the car is charging above that voltage, the bike's regulator will try to bring it down. The car will win this battle. Now this having been said, I have jumped my bikes in the past with a running car because I didn't know any better and I got away with it. Luck, not skill! | ||
| Hootowl |
The two batteries will be connected in parallel. In addition to the current coming from the charged car battery, the car's voltage regulator will detect the low battery condition of the bike's battery, and increase it's voltage output to begin charging it. A car's alternator puts our WAY too much current for a motorcycle battery to handle. It damages the battery as surely as if you'd hooked it up to a 50 amp charger. SLA MC batteries should be charged at a max current of two amps. Think trickle charger. If you want to eliminate your battery as a source of the problem, disconnect it before connecting your bike to the car battery. It's safer for your battery. If you've connected it to a running car, you may have damaged it already. | ||
| Kalali |
"it has a voltage regulation system that limits the alternator output and they are typically 12 volt....." The alternator output of a running car is well above 12 volts. If the bike's battery is weak and not totally dead, the bike should start right up with just a jump from a non-running car with a good battery. I've done it more times than I'd like to admit. On my old Honda but never on the X1. The other word of caution is frying the ECM. All it takes is a voltage spike and you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why the bike is dead. ECMs die very quietly with no fanfare...No smoke, no sparks. Just a heavy paperweight. |
