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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through September 15, 2013 » How to remove front pads buell x1 « Previous Next »

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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey I'm trying to change front pads on my 2000 x1 what tool do I use to get that pad retaining bolt out? I don't wanna strip it or anything it looks like a
Flat head screw driver
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Mcelhaney14
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is a plug that is covering the allen head for the retaining bolt. I usually use an apex tip in a 1/4 inch socket to get that out.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well mine isn't coming off at all lol figures I used penetrating spray it screws off right? Now a pry off?
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Mcelhaney14
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Screws off. Normal right hand thread.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ha not for this guy and its stripped so looks like I'm performing surgery
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got it off it was thread locked on awsome lol come on retaining pin lets hope ur locked on to lol
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Mcelhaney14
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I usually put a little anti seize on that plug. Never had it come loose yet.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had to drill it and pull it out with a extraction bit. But now front brakes are done front right turn signal working again(had to open up the harness dam wiring) and rear brakes and bled and full of new fluid all while I was supposed to be raining out but was sunny get it done and boom the rain starts
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quick brief write up on front pads. 1. Remove retaining pin plug. 2.remove retaining pin. 3. Remove pad spring(I just pulled up on it with a flathead came right out). 4.pull pads out 5. I removed my caliper and pushed my pistons back in. I needed to in order to get my new pads in because they got down to bare metal. With pads out you should be able to just remove the 2 mount bolts and slide ur caliper down a little and wiggle it out. 6. Remount caliper and slide new pads in place. 7. Put the spring back in place(it only mounts in 1 way). 8. Slide retaining pin back through the first pad over the spring and through the second pad and finally through the caliper.(screw pin back in with a little anti seize on it). 9. Squeeze brakes until the pads set against rotor. Visually inspect make sure everything looks right if it doesn't disassemble and problem solve if it does reinstall plug with anti seize on it. And then drink beers and take ur first 100 miles or so easy
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Travis did you clean the pistons before you pushed them in? if not you pushed a bunch of grits into the seals and bores of your caliper.

to clean the pistons, place a metal object between the pistons and pump them out just a bit farther than they were out after you removed the pads ( I usually remove the caliper ) wet a cotton shoe string with brake cleaner and pull it all the way around the piston, that removes the worst of the baked in and all of the loose dirt and brake dust.

when clean and dry press the pistons back in and re mount the caliper per FSM recommendations.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, loosen the lid on your master cylinder so the fluid pressure can bleed back into the reservoir.

I leave the pads IN, then do the wiggle-trick to use the pads to push the pistons back evenly. That way one isn't being pushed out while another is being pushed in...and the pistons aren't scarring your rotor, either.
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Tll130
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

@olddog yes I did thank you for that I just realized I left it out of the write up. Also this is off topic on the front brakes but does anyone have a walk through on bleeding rear brakes( I had mechanic do mine today). But I would like to learn to do it myself.
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the reason I asked Travis is that I did your procedure before and had one of the pistons get stuck causing the front brake to drag badly ( one poster years ago stated his s3 front brakes locked up for some reason )
water or dirt are the only reasons I can think of, I use a set of parallels that I have ( steel bars ground to a precise size, pieces of aly stock can be used for this )

On the rear brake bleed, remove the resaviour cap, make sure that its full of clean fluid, pump up the peddal while holding it down open the bleeder when the pedal stops full down snug the bolt repeat as needed until the fluid is new and clean and the pedal is firm snug the bolt replace the rubber cap, top off the rear MC and replace the cover, the front brakes are horrible to bleed but the rears are ez to get right.

I presume that you know about hoses for the bleeders and the cautions about brake fluid and paint.

glad it went well
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Tll130
Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the advice old dog and I think one of my pistons may be a little stuck(moves out and in slower then the others) is there a way to pull the pistons out forcefully?(without pumping brakes) to make sure they are clean of debris? Also yes I know full and well the effects of it on paint. The P.O had a brake leak when I got it fixed the leak but he never wiped and cleaned the brake fluid off so now my paint has brake fluid specks on it(frame paint) thank god none got on the chrome rim.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The pistons are all different sizes and if perfect will move at different amounts per stroke of the lever, due to area & pressure differences, its more or less normal for them to move like this due to differences in area and drag of the seals. If any are stiff or don't seem to move at all against the installed brake pads / rotor then further investigation is in order.

To answer you..

the front caliper must be removed and disassembled, to take pistons out.
They can be removed with your fingers or small pliers at that point.

If you suspect that the caliper is all OE consider a 40$ investment in safety by over hauling it, get it from American Sport Bike, as Al has checked his stock ( I received a kit from an HD shop that was sealed and was missing the body o-rings ) [ long story ]

the kit has 6 clean pistons 12 o-rings 6 of two different types silicon grease, and the body seals (o-rings)
BTW use the grease it precludes air being trapped in the bottom of the caliper bores, the lever feel will be much better [ DAMHIK ]

Instructions are in the FSM (except the grease) you grease the bottom corner of the pistons before you assemble them.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, September 01, 2013 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Having never seen your bike I believe that your chrome rims may be PM wheels and brake fluid won't hurt polished aly ( or real chrome plate ) AFAIK
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