| Author | Message | ||
     Bengny |
So last month the X1 started puking oil on my back tire. Clicking around BWB I figured it was the oil seal leaking transmission fluid into the crank. Thanks to the knowledge vault and this guy's youtube video I had no problems with the repair. I'm writing it up mostly to give another indexed search hit when someone else runs into the problem. Part #s: Oil seal (the new one): 3515-74A Spacer: 40240-89 Less than common tools: -1/2" drive breaker bar (not a torque wrench, and not a socket with a cheater bar, but a legit 16 inch breaking bar. You will need all of the torques). -Beam style torque wrench ( Unless you have a really fancy torque wrench, this is the only kind that torques left handed bolts) -Brass strap hinge to lock the primary. -1 1/4" PVC pipe coupling. The repair was straight forward. -Drain primary fluid (wrap exhaust with a trash bag to keep the oil off) -Loosen, but don't remove the primary chain tension (this is the lock nut around the hex head bolt forward of the primary fluid drain. -Remove clutch cover and clutch worm. -Remove primary case. -To remove the primary assembly you're going to need to lock the gears. Harley makes a fancy schmancy lock bar but I read that a brass strap hinge works (and it did).  Now break the front bolt holding the crank gears. You Will need a 1/2" inch drive 16 inch breaker bar. Do not use a torque wrench, this thing is freaking on there. If you're thinking of using an old ratchet and cheater pipe, don't bother, I broke one doing this and so will you.  Looks like the strap hinge fell out when I was posing for this pic... -Remove clutch pack bolt in the same manner remember its REVERSE THREADED! -Pull the primary gears and chain as all one unit and set aside. Theres a magnet in there and it will want to hang on so just work it. -Pull the spacer off the crank. -Make a note of how far seated the seal is. This will be important if you aren't using the harley crank seal installer tool. -Now for the fun part: getting the old seal out. I pretty much just kept tearing at it with needle nose pliars, I also pried (VERY CAREFULLY) at it with a tire spoon because they're nice and dull. Try hard not to scuff the bore that it's sitting in. Then it's out:  -I had to clean up the bore because there were some scuffs and scratches, used the polishing wheel on a dremmel. -Place the new gasket in loosely. -Push in the spacer. -Fit the PVC coupling so it sits on the outer edge of the gasket. -Tap it in very slowly with a small hammer all around the edges. -Apparently it's possible to seat these too deep. I found my stock one was sitting about a credit card's width proud and installed the new one to this depth. -Assembly is the reverse. Don't forget red locktite! -Torques: +Engine Sprocket: 210 ft/lbs +Clutch Pack: 70 ft/lbs REVERSE THREADED this is where you use the beam style torque wrench to torque it left handed. +Primary case bolts: 5-7 ft/lbs -Figure out a good catch can system for the tranny breather so it won't kill you if you screwed up the seal install. I had a little 8oz plastic bottle that I mounted under the tail (upright) with worm clamps. Fitted the breather hose into the side with a fuel line bar. Put the air filter in the top. -Drink beers. | ||
| Hootowl |
"-Drink beers." Plural. Nice  | ||
| B1rdman |
Great writeup, thanks! I've already gone through the ordeal fortunately. I would add that while you have the primary chain out, to go ahead and replace the starter gasket. (Message edited by b1rdman on August 22, 2013) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Nice write up. Add some black rtv to the grommet the stator wires pass through, after cleaning it up, to keep it from doing it's little weepy thing. There are some good seal pullers out there, you'll want one with a small hook on it. The side handle puller from Harbor Freight looks just about right. I used a slide hammer with a small hook. | ||
| Fasted |
thanks so much for summing this up so well. over the years, this has been the reason for thousands of posts and frustrations. this will be a great resource for lots of members. btw, many torque wrenches with a removable mechanism cover can have the guts flipped and the wrench will work in the opposite direction |
