| Author | Message | ||
     Terrycoxusa |
I just took out the Clutchlite clutch ramp and re installed the factory ramp. The clutchlite gave a much lighter pull, but at the expense of a dragging clutch, no matter how I adjusted it. What do you think of the Muller clutch ramp vs the Clutchlite? I looked at the clutchlite ramps and it looks like only about 2/3 of the ramp was being used. | ||
| Preybird1 |
There is a lot of issues with this and a lot of opinions on if it works properly and how to do the adjustments. I had a muller and i sold that garbage! I call it that because i tried to adjust it 3 different times and it would not work properly. And before anyone says clutch adjustment class i had 2 professional shops try to adjust that stupid thing also and it doesn't stop slipping the clutch. I had NRHS try and adjust it and i didn't work. Then i had the bike shipped to JTSperformance in California and it was slipping on the dyno. Terry called me immediately thinking it was a new clutch. It was not and i even put in a Barnett clutch plate kit and i did not change anything. So at this point i don't care what anyone else here says about that junk! IT DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY!!!! I tried and 2 profesional shops could not get it to work properly. I don't recommend it.......I do recommend getting a grip exerciser!! | ||
| Steveford |
How about something simple and cheap like this? http://easypullclutch.net/ If I remember correctly we installed a bunch of them with good results. You just have to be careful with the adjustment as it's real easy to pull the cable away from the clutch perch. | ||
| Buell_bert |
If you want one of the easypulls shoot me an Email and a price. | ||
| S1owner |
How do the easy pulls work? | ||
| Foximus |
Or just grow a set, and use the stock ramps. Get some muscle tone boys. | ||
| Trojan |
I've used Muller Powerclutches on all my Buell S1,S3 and XB road AND race bikes, as well as a few Sportsters and an XR1200. I have NEVER had any issues with adjustment and they have always made the clutch action much lighter and worked exactly as they should. By changing the angle of the ball bearing ramps rather than lengthening the clutch arm (as other devices do) this does not change the angle of the cable when it enters the primary and puts no extra strain on the cable. The Easy pull type are just a bolt on extension of the clutch arm that gives greater leverage at the expense of the cable angle being altered (which can lead to broken clutch cables at the primary). Having used both I would recommend the Muller type any day. | ||
| Buellish |
I run an MRC clutch ramp which is similar to the Muller.Like Trojan,I've never had any slippage or adjustment issues.I've had them on 5 or 6 different bikes and have recommended them to friends. (Message edited by buellish on August 10, 2013) | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
foximus , you might be a little younger than some of us old guys that have arthritis and or tendonitis. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Anyone thought of attacking the opposite side of the system: Longer lever on the bar for more leverage? Sometime just grab the lever near the outside edge and see if doing just that is enough. | ||
| Foximus |
Very true. Just like to give you some grief. THANKS FOR THE HEADER ALSO! I love it. What a beautiful piece. Have been trying to get one forever, and all I find are damaged ones. I saw you listed a second one. How many do you have sitting around? | ||
| Terrycoxusa |
Foximus, just the two. I bought them thinking they would fit my S3. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, if you know how to adjust a SPORTSTER Clutch correctly, the OEM parts work just fine !!! | ||
| Rich |
Lafayette is right. | ||
| Beardo |
Some people have physical disabilities they deal with. I have days where it's difficult to hold a glass, let alone pull the clutch lever in. BTW, I have used a Muller with no ill effects. | ||
| S1owner |
I have fallen and I cant get up! Sorry could not resist I set mine up using Lafayette's 101 and works smooth and light | ||
| Buellistic |
Beardo, email me if you want the part numbers of KAWA "ADJUSTABLE" clutch and front brake levers !!! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I use the MRC with no ill effects. Broke my left wrist as an adventurous 14 year old (completely crushed the growth plate). Weight training, rock climbing and other various physical activities have done little to make the clutch better except for frequent use... even then the MRC was a nice relief. I use the easy pull, had to file something down to make mine fit in the end of the perch (hook thing) and it would occasionally hang up on the inside of the primary, so I eventually spent a few extra bucks on the MRC. I wonder if you got a bad ramp Prey? With all the other bad mojo your bike needed exercised from it, it doesn't seem out of the question in my somewhat superstitious mind. | ||
| Al_lighton |
What Matt (Trojan) said..... Russ (Preybird), I call BS.... there is no way a properly adjusted Muller powerclutch can cause the clutch to slip. The only things that affects clutch slippage are: 1) adjustment 2) clutch spring force 3) fluid type 4) clutch wear The powerclutch changes the mechanical ratio of the pull, optimizing pull angle on the ball ramp and changing the leverage ratio. There is generally no free lunch... one can always trade force for displacement, basic leverage principles. But the Muller also optimizes the linear to rotary conversion a bit by changing the angle the arm is at relative to the cable a little, which does provide a little bit of "free lunch" in the linear to rotary conversion. It DOES reduce the overall clutch throw a little bit. But it still has enough, and it DOES work. But makes the clutch slip? No way, not if the clutch is adjusted properly, isn't worn out, has the right fluid, and has a good spring. I have one on the shop XB9, WITH a Magura Hydraulic clutch. I generally recommend one or the other, but not both, as both substantially reduce lever force but also reduce the overall clutch throw a little. The Magura reduction is almost free lunch, because you don't have to waste any lever travel on cable free play. But the combination of both does make the clutch adjustment a bit hypercritical. I have to adjust it a bit more often, but I don't get slip, and the clutch lever on that bike is like butter. Al | ||
| Preybird1 |
That's ok AL But i have an actual dyno pull photo with it installed and in 4th gear. And you could call terry and ask him or call Dan at Nrhs, I personally went to see Dan and loaded my bike up and drove it to his shop 8hrs away in Colorado. And that is what he told me also when he was building the motor. So here is the picture of the\my bike at JTSperformance's shop. Once he (terry) removed it and re-installed the factory ramp set up. It functioned correctly and he was able to dyno tune in 5th gear. Would you like the corresponding e-mail? I still have it saved. I am not making this up. you can prove me wrong right. But you can't change what i have seen on my machine. And you could not even give me one of those "pieces" even if it was made of solid GOLD! I have no argument but my own real evidence and what i have personally witnessed so to each there own i guess. And on a side note since JTSperformance dyno tuned the bike and fixed the clutch it has had no issues for years now. And terry was able to bump the rev limiter up a to 6700 rpm after the factory set up went back in with the old fluid still in the trans case. So what's going on there?.......That clutch had 9,256 miles on it. So it was far from worn out. the dyno  waiting.....my bike in line for another run on the dyno!  Here is a freeze frame dyno picture.  | ||
| S1owner |
Lets call this dead. Sometimes things work for some but not others Kill it! | ||
| Buellistic |
Any body have any idea how long a OEM clutch will last ??? Have 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride on my OEM clutch ... | ||
| Lynrd |
at least 111,819.6 miles, apparently | ||
| V74 |
have seen them on ebay and been toying with the idea of getting on so back to the original question which one? muller v clutchlite | ||
| Trojan |
Muller 100% | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My OEM clutch lasted about 55,000. If not the the friggin' grenade plate rivets, it would be fine. | ||
| Buellistic |
That is how "i" got 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride out of the OEM clutch was to replace the SPRING PLATE(AKA GRENADE PLATE) PN 37977-90 with 2 STEEL PLATES PN 37913-90 and 1 FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 right after "i" bought my 1997 S3T !!! | ||
| Rick_a |
This may help:   | ||
| Oldog |
LOL +2 Rick |
