| Author | Message | ||
     Tll130 |
Today I went to use my rear brake and when I stepped on it no pressure was applied to the rotor I'm thinking maybe it needs to be bled? But even if it did it would still work a little right? I mean I had my clutch in and it wasn't slowing me down at all. Botha pads and rotor are in good shape and its full on fluid. Advice? | ||
| Kilroy |
Advice - if you know that little about brakes get a professional to look at it, they are kinda important. | ||
| Kalali |
The X1 rear brake is very anemic but it should help slow down the bike. Don't expect it to lock unless you put your entire weight on it. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
If the pedal is hard and there is zero braking then the caliper is frozen. | ||
| Beardo |
Wait a second! There is a brake on the rear wheel?!? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yes there is. And if you bed in the pads properly and use it on a regular basis it will provide consistent, progressive braking all the way to an accessible and controllable lockup. I can j-slide any of my tubers (any of my Buells, actually) at will and I consistently use it the way it is intended - as a service brake. If your rear brake is "ineffective" it either needs servicing, bleeding, or you need to learn how to use it correctly. | ||
| Beardo |
I was kidding. Simply stopped using a rear brake on a road bike years ago. Funny enough, I just started riding a dual sport, and I can't believe how much I use the rear brake! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I can't believe anyone would consciously choose not to use it...road, dirt, or otherwise. (shrug) | ||
| Beardo |
If that style is good enough for Keith Code, Foggy, etc, it's been good enough for me... | ||
| Trouble_enabler |
"...need to learn how to use it correctly." You using your foot or hand to push it down? Because you may not be getting enough pressure with your hand.  | ||
| Kalali |
"... you need to learn how to use it correctly." Any guidance will be appreciated... | ||
| Tll130 |
I think it just needs to be bled after riding it more today it slows my bike just is not the way it should be I think there is just air in the lines and rear brake isn't that important I could actually go without it I almost never use it the front and downshifting is plenty for me. And what do you mean by learn how to use it? Is there a certain way I should push on it with my foot? Lol | ||
| Jayvee |
When you say "pads are good" does that mean plenty of stopping pad thickness left, or did you take them out and look at the surface? I recently replaced a pair of pads that were plenty thick, but glazed over, couldn't unglaze 'em. When replaced, big difference. Just a thought... Bleeding that rear line has always been a bit tricky for me. I have the 'Big Syringe' and still, it takes a long time. | ||
| Tll130 |
A friend of mine has the vacuum pump for bleeding them so Im gonna ask him to borrow it. And they aren't hazed nice texture and thickness left on them I took them off to make sure the caliper wasn't seized | ||
| Foximus |
my S1 rear brake has always provided about the same stopping force as putting both feet down on the pavement and dragging them. Not sure what it is... but Just dont get power out of it. Multiple sets of pads... resurfacing the rotor... Nada. I dont use it anyway. So its not a big deal. Hell... my 636 doesnt even have a rear brake lever or master cylinder. Nor my CBR. | ||
| Ratbuell |
"using it properly", at least as far as making it functional, means that I use it to (gasp!) stop the motorcycle. The rear brake can be used to set the chassis up for a turn; it can be used for trail braking into/through a turn; it can be used to bring the bike to a stop at a light or stop sign. As noted above, I can also use mine to J-slide any of my bikes at will. Regular, proper use will keep the pads and the rotor clean. It will keep the pads and rotor from glazing. There will be no squeal, no slip, the seals in the master cylinder and in the caliper will stay lubricated and functional, and you will have balanced braking capability for the motorcycle. The key here is "balance" - the front brake is strong enough to stop the bike on its own, sure. So is the rear. But using them together gets you the balance, and helps you set the chassis "just so" for whatever situation you are in, whatever turn you are entering or exiting, whatever terrain you are riding on. Anyone who totally ignores their rear brake, feel free to remove it and mail it to me. I can always keep spares on the shelf for my bikes  | ||
| Tll130 |
Foximus your rear brake may be controlled by your front it might be a dual pressure kind of thing I know some bikes have that to provide the "optimal stop". | ||
| Coxster |
The 1999 M2 review in Cycle Rider mag points out how much effort the rear brake requires. I agree. | ||
| Tll130 |
Ya I'm bleeding mine tommorrow I will let you guys know if it helps or not | ||
| Ratbuell |
Bleed it. BURN it in. Get up to 30-40mph and haul it down with ONLY the rear brake. Repeat until you can smell pads, just like burning in new front pads. Let it cool, and I suspect you'll be amazed by how well that little bugger hauls down the bike from that point on. And remember to USE it on a regular basis | ||
| Jayvee |
Interesting to hear that Rat, I did that recently to my front (new) pads. I posted on here to ask if it was normal to smell burnt like that, nobody seemed to know what I was talking about. Lyndall instructions had some specific speeds, and stopping rates, and it created smoke on stops number 9 & 10. I didn't do that with the last rear pad replacement it was prior to the Lyndalls (and wasn't Lyndalls, Motor Factory, or some such, came with no instructions at all.) | ||
| Tll130 |
I will do that rat thanks for the advice. I was removing my tube from the master cylinder to the reservoir and the tube broke. What kind of tube should I use to replace it? Will fuel line tube do? | ||
| Mbsween |
T1130, By tube you mean the brake line heading up towards the oil tank right? Or do you mean the master cylinder itself? The tube is actually line to your brake light switch, which is activated by the hydraulic pressure in the line. The entire line (master to switch, switch to caliper) is a single unit. You'll need to replace the assembly. I did that last week on my 2001 X1, it is a PITA to remove. After removing it, I replaced it with a steel braided line and then use a banjo bolt (the bolt connecting the line to the master) switch which is a 20 dollar part. I can tell you that for me at least, bleeding the rear brake is now trivial and the feel is good as Rat suggests. The rear brake on the X1 was always "light", but it will lock the rear if you stomp on it. See this thread for a little bit more info. I'll add a picture of the completed project (still working on the getting the brake line where I like it) X1 rear brake line | ||
| Beardo |
'Anyone who totally ignores their rear brake, feel free to remove it and mail it to me. I can always keep spares on the shelf for my bikes ' Can't do it, they are my paperweights!  | ||
| Tll130 |
Idk mine doesn't really look like that I have a reservoir under my seat and a tube that goes from the master res. to the master cyliner(for brake fluid only) that is the tube that broke | ||
| Tll130 |
I replaced it with a fuel line tube and filled it bled it and took mb's advice and sure enough I can j slide with it I I press it hard enough |
