| Author | Message | ||
     Rsm688 |
With the XB rocker box cover conversion, I won't be removing or loosening any of the head bolts or rocker components that will require things to be adjusted again right? Also I am going to replace my pushrod tube gaskets as well, those don't need anything adjusted either right? Are there any good aftermarket pushrods that are worth swapping out low mileage stockers for or are the stock ones good to go? I was going to be removing heads for powdercoating and was going to replace all seals and new head bolts and all the torquing/adjusting needed for then but if I'm just doing rocker covers and pushrod tube gaskets now I won't have to remove anything other than the rocker covers and pushrod tubes, so all my settings and all will be the same as before, correct? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Harleyelf |
If you are replacing your push rod tube gaskets you will have to remove the push rods, which means yes the rocker arms come off. If you're just doing the XB conversion at this time and planning the tube seals later, then the rocker arms stay in place. You may have to lightly file the upper edge of the front left corner of the front rocker cover to clear your motor mount. Stay away from the gasket groove! The clearance issue is up on the top of the part. The umbrella valve comes out with the sandwich layer of the old rocker cover. Neither is used with the XB set up. If you have a clearance issue with your PCV valves hitting the gas tank you might have to swap the covers so the PCV valves are not so high. The front will barely clear the frame but it can be done. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
If your going to do the pushrod gaskets, I recommend upgrading the bases to the NRHS billet bases. No more leakey leakey! http://www.nrhsperformance.com/pictures/pushrodbas es.html | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks harleyelf, so if I remove the rocker arms, what all has to be done once I put them back on to get everything back right? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Harleyelf |
If you remove the rocker arms, you must do it one cylinder at a time close enough to TDC that both valves are fully closed! Re-assembly follows the same rule. Never ask a screw thread to do the work of a spring. You may have the old base gaskets. If they do not leak yet, you are ahead of the curve. They may have already been upgraded, so don't mess with them unless they leak. The oil pump drive gear can cause you more grief in a shorter time. It's the first upgrade after the shock and muffler mount that you need to worry about. | ||
| Rsm688 |
Mine is a 99 M2 with 9k miles, I haven't noticed anything leaking at the base gaskets. Are there any other signs of leaking base gaskets? I believe my bike has the newer oil pump drive gear. Shock and muffler mount have already been upgraded. Okay so when removing the valves (properly) for the pushrod tube gaskets (mine aren't leaking but figured might as well do them), all I will have to do is get it set right, remove it, and screw it back down (as in no adjustments needed or anything)? KC-thanks for the link, I've been thinking about swapping those as well, do you know if they sell the bases individually and if so how much are they? All I see is the full set with tubes and all Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Kc_zombie |
I got mine from Al at American Sport Bike October 2011. They were around $50 for the pair with upper o -rings and lower seals (I used my tubes). Not sure if he still carries them or not. If not, send him and email or any NRHS distributor should have access to them. | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks KC, I will check with Al on them. Okay another question, I am VERY mechanically inclined, but I have never done any internal motor work except for dirt bike top ends. How much work is it to remove the heads and do all the upper gaskets? I mean I know I could remove and reinstall them no problem, but what kind of little nitpicky adjustments and things are required to get it back together right other than just bolt it all back up? And anything else it would need besides: Pushrod tube bases/seals/orings Top end gasket kit XB rocker covers/valves/hose New head bolts Thanks, Spencer (Message edited by rsm688 on August 07, 2013) | ||
| Buellistic |
PICTURES of IMPROVISED SPECIAL TOOLS to properly "TORQUE" the rocker arms and fasteners correctly !!! Just PM me for the HELP "INFO" ... Leave the pistons in the cylinders and pull the wrist pins so you do not disturb the rings !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
First question: the hydraulic lifters will take care of adjusting the valves when you remove the rocker arms to get the push rods out. You do not remove the valves. If you're just there to swap seals, go ahead and swap them on that cylinder and then put it right back together before rotating the engine to the other compression TDC. Second question: The only symptom of leaking base gaskets is oil where it shouldn't be. If they are dry, they have already been replaced. Third question: The trick about removing the cylinders and heads of these bikes is that the motor must be supported from below or it will fall down and damage your rear motor mounts as soon as you remove the upper mounting bolt. Some sort of catch can may help keep your air cleaner from over-oiling. I have a tee into the air cleaner for when I'm pulling good suction, and a hole in the spice jar lid for excess gasses when I am not. Collects a half teaspoon every 100 miles or so.  | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks Buellistic for the 100th time for your great info and pictures you emailed me. You seriously should compile everything you have into a book about Buells. I'd pay $100 for it personally haha. Harleyelf, thanks for the help and pictures. My motor is completely out of the bike right now (I stripped it to nothing but a pile of parts, a frame, and a motor for a full out custom build). I've already got me a catch can setup My head gaskets are dry as can be, even my pushrod gaskets are dry with no leaks (not a leak anywhere on this bike, she was babied). I just figured I might as well swap the pushrod seals while it was out of the bike and doing the rocker conversion so I didn't have to pull everything and do it later on down the road. Okay guys, whoever reads this thread, on a 99 M2 in great shape with just 9k miles on it and NO leaking gaskets anywhere at all. Should I bother pulling the heads and swapping them while the motor is out of the bike or just leave it alone? I'm in class 30 hours a week so I don't have just gobs of free time Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Buellistic |
Only fix what is broke and the other statement is PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE !!! |
