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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through August 09, 2013 » Do I have a bad fuel pump. « Previous Next »

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Sdecp
Posted on Friday, July 19, 2013 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have an 00 X1 that was down for an overhaul. I have 12Volts at the battery. When I engage the kill switch to start, I remember the fuel pump making a relatively loud purging noise. Now, the pump noise sounds weak and I can barely hear it. When I go to start the bike, the motor just keeps turning over until I hear the starter click and popping out of the air intake.

I ran a diagnostic on the ECM and it ran, but again, it was very quiet.

Anyone have any ideas? At $300+ for a new pump, where would I begin troubleshooting.
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Azrael_cervale
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 01:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is the pump unit that fits an X1.
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/521.html
Still not cheap but it's $100

Have you checked filters? Mine has one inline between the cylinder before the manifold and I think there's one in the tank. I'd also disconnect the line and wearing safety glasses run the diagnostic again to see if the fuel comes out.
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a port on the outlet, used for pressure testing

I am going to ask the obvious,
spark and compression?
timing?

IIRC pressure while running is to be about 45 psi

fuel delivery is around max 2 LPM ( about 2 1/2 quarts no load, ) so run that back to the tank if you wish to try that.

As indicated there is an external filter there is also one in the tank over the pump inlet.
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Sdecp
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dennis: I want to say thanks for your help last night. I read your post and then worked on the bike till I went to bed.

I changed the filter this morning and after letting the battery sit on the tender all night, I heard what i think is the normal pump noise. I pulled the plugs this morning are they are wet; however, I am getting no spark.

I do not have an X1 service manual so I am trying research as I go forward.
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Sdecp
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oldog: Thank you. I am going to focus on what you suggested.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check out 2003 FORD Fuel PUMP PN 317-365KPA(46-53 PSI) was $85.00 at AUTOZONE PN E2366 !!!
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Greg_cifu
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I have 12Volts at the battery. When I engage the kill switch to start, I remember the fuel pump making a relatively loud purging noise. Now, the pump noise sounds weak and I can barely hear it. When I go to start the bike, the motor just keeps turning over until I hear the starter click and popping out of the air intake.



You say you have 12V at the starter but, what does it read when you're cranking? You also said the bike was down for an overhaul. Overhaul of what? Was the cam position sensor removed?

My first guess at this is bad battery. You shouldn't be able to crank a battery down to the starter clicking. The battery should be able to burn out the starter motor before getting down to clicking (at least not within a minute).

If the ECU doesn't have enough voltage when the starter is cranking, it won't fire the spark at the right time...or maybe at all.

You said the plugs are wet. That suggests the pump is working and the injectors are firing. Was the cam cover removed? How was the timing set when the cam position sensor was reinstalled?
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Sdecp
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 04:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Greg:

I had someone help me with some mods that did include upgrading the cams. I will start looking there because I do not know any of the answers to your questions (other than the obvious).

Thanks,
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Charge/replace battery.

You need a good battery, get it load checked by a competent shop.

These bikes do not like batteries that are not up to giving good voltage/current draw.

(Message edited by two_seasons on July 21, 2013)
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agreed on the battery.
A weak battery will allow the engine to crank and the injector to squirt but not be able to ignite the mixture.

Check your plugs. They may be wet!
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BATTERY Class 101:

When you buy a battery it should be put on a charger for 24 hours because you have no idea how long it set on the shelf !!!

After the charge you can consider the battery at FULL CHARGE !!!

If you over drain the battery as in LOAD TEST or keep cranking your bike when it will not start with the lights on the battery will loose 20% of its charge !!!

"AND" if you keep doing this without keeping it charged or on a trickle charge when not riding you keep loosing 20% until the battery will no longer turn your engine over as in the starter clicks !!!

Ever notice on your car when you have the lights on and you start the lights go out, WELL THEY FORGOT TO PUT THAT RELAY ON YOUR BIKE !!!

"SO" if you want to keep trying to start it when it does not want to start, TAKE THE LIGHT FUSES OUT TO PROTECT YOUR BATTERY FROM THE START "LOAD TEST" !!!

More questions, feel free to ask ???
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 10:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

pull your plugs clean & check the gap on them.

Use ecm spy to run a static test on the coils for spark remember to ground the shell with them out ( or you can use spares )

confirm the timing is as it should be
the timing 0 / 1 flag in ecm spy should change when the timing mark is in the window in the center,
[ the window is the plug at the base of the cylinders in the V ]

[FYI to turn over the engine slowly put the bike on stands Rear wheel in the air in 5th gear to turn it over pull the plugs and ground the plug wires, or remove the coil connection this makes it easier to check the timing]

Also I agree with all battery comments for low battery, a weak battery will turn the engine over like Greg said but won't start the bike (DAMHIK )

post up with your questions, Al [ American Sport Bike ] may yet have access to the manuals, consider using the board sponsors.....
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