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Newbuellertoo
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all, I have a line on a 1998 S3 with a blown top end. Are there many parts that are interchangeable with my 2000? Would buying the whole bike be worth the number of parts that would be usable? Not really interested in parting it out myself. Not enough of a market up here, but don't want to see it scrapped either
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Blks1l
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Almost everything is interchangeable with the exception of the 2000 being fuel injected. If the price is right it is always good for spares.
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Stev0
Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2013 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it's only really some motor internals that are different, as said, go for it.

The '98 has a rebuildable crank too, whereas yours is a press together one.
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Newbuellertoo
Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2013 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've received a price for the whole bike as is and it's unfortunately more than I can afford right now. It's too bad because it's a beautiful silver with orange wheels. My favourite Buell combo.I would like a couple of parts off of it though if they match. I've used the search on the site but hours of sorting haven't given me what I'm looking for so if the knowledgeable people here could help it would be much appreciated.
Here's what I need confirmation on fitment wise: 1998 vs 2000 S3T
Body work
Wheels and brakes
Engine cases
Hard bags and brackets
Seat
Also, any idea what it would cost, (ballpark), for an engine rebuilt? Top end, valves, and pistons?

Thanks guys. Don't know where I'm going to get the money, but I think I'm talking myself into this!!! lol
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Blks1l
Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2013 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All of that list will interchange between the two. I think the 1998 dash was different between the two but would still work. Unfortunately no idea on the price to rebuild an engine.
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Lynrd
Posted on Monday, July 01, 2013 - 12:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can confirm everything listed will interchange, except for the fuel tank- 2000 being DDFI and 1998 being carbuerated.

- you are looking at the opposite of the trip I'm doing with Veronica (98 S3) and The Frog (2000S3T), - I haven't tried Engine cases but engine ass'y will mount. I wouldn't bother with that in California as it would cause title weirdness.

If the top end is "Blown" does that just mean a blown head gasket? I know HD bottom ends are pretty bulletproof on the big twins, If the Sporty is half as good I'd sure inspect it well before bothering rebuilding the bottom - you likely can get away with a top end, maybe as simple as deck the heads flat and reseat the valves.

I spin my own wrenches for engine work, and just farm out the machining to a good shop. How much it would cost is really hard to say until you find out what is going on inside - example, if a wrist pin slipped out, you will need a new cylinder. on the other hand, you may not need new valves at all - new valves for me would also mean re-cutting the seats, meaning more machine $$. Pistons, sure, ok...never a bad idea - if you get some stockers your looking at a couple hundred bucks with rings. Maybe your pistons are within tolerance and just some new rings would freshen it up...Wow, you just saved $300 easy! Another hundred for the gasket set. Machine shop - well - how high is up?

Transmission may be a different story but they aren't hard to do.

Can confirm that dash and gauges are different. Forks on the 2000 seem to be a bit nicer, and the Frog had a better front rotor than the 1998.

(Message edited by Lynrd on July 01, 2013)
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Newbuellertoo
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Lynrd. The engine ingested a bolt from the airbox so it's pretty much a crankcase up rebuild.
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Lynrd
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I knew there was a reason to hate that stock air box. Ouch.
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Greg_cifu
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually, I don't see how a stock airbox would ingest a screw; they're outside the snorkel. On a ham-can or any of a dozen other aftermarket air cleaners, it would be easy. The screws are right there in the throat.
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Lynrd
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, so I still hate them anyway.
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Fahren
Posted on Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Swing arm was steel box type in 1998 - switched to new style in '99.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2013 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Greg,
I've seen it happen first hand. I've got pictures of the head/piston damage. The SS bolts that holds the snorkel on (there are three of them, the bottom one got sucked into the carb)are prone to vibrating loose.
This was on an bone stock 02 S3. I'd just replace the stock ECM with a race module and reset the TPS. I'd just taken it for a test drive. It ran perfect, I then started it up a couple of min later and the clattering began.

Damage was piston, head and exhaust push rod. I put it back together and all was well. No bottom end damage. The head and piston were a mess....

There are pictures somewhere in the archives of this from about 5-6 years ago.
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