| Author | Message | ||
     Hwood |
My 1997 S1 Lightening oil pump froze up. The motor is on a trike. Ive replaced the oil pump and oil pump drive gear twice. The last time it lasted one day. I believe it happened before I bought the trike once, also ...I learned this through a third party who remembered this particular trike and knew the people I bought the trike from. This third party relayed to me that these particular people ran the motor until it was HOT and froze it up and he was able to get the motor started after it cooled off. These people didn't tell me about this incident ....amoung other issues, before I bought the trike. I'm wanting to know if anyone else has had this oil pump, drive gear, issues with there motors, after running it hot enough to freeze it up?? And if so any advice. I like the motor....and I am wondering if maybe its worth fixing.....or should I consider getting a different motor?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! | ||
| Sparky |
Were these new pumps you installed? If they were used pumps, there might have been uneven wear on the gear drive teeth which if bad enough can lead to the gears jamming the pump. Also the pumps you replaced might have been damaged by metal debris as collateral damage from the seizing episodes and the stuff is still circulating through the oiling system and inside the engine itself. The smart thing to do would be to carefully inspect the oil filter for metallic debris and if any is found, as a minimum, thoroughly flush the engine and oiling system. Inspect the oil pump for any kind of damage before installing it (again) and be sure to install the upgraded oil pump drive gear (bronze). | ||
| Arizona_buell |
The biggest issue with these engines is if you starve the crankshaft at all then you will have issues in the future with Main bearing failure. There is no way to examine the crankshaft main bearings unless you remove them. It would be odd for two or more oil pumps to "freeze up" unless it is consuming internal engine bits between the gears. Just my opinions here. Almost anything can be repaired as far as the engine is concerned. But it certainly sounds like you need to find the root cause of the pump failure. Remove the pump and take it apart and send us pictures. | ||
| Hwood |
Thank you for your quick response. I will answer both comments with this. Both pumps were new and when I inspected the last oil pump after it died. I found a rather large piece of the old drive gear,(I believe to be the old drive gear), I flushed the oil tank and lines, new oil, new filter. I bought the steel oil pump drive gear because bronze is softer... I will get a new pump and the bronze oil pump drive gear. I still don't understand why softer is better,( but cool)...so my next question is... What is the proper way to flush this engine thoroughly? or should I take the engine to the shop and have it torn down and cleaned? I can see the advantage's to this, so i can have everything checked. I love the motor, it almost runs with no oil.... I had 20-25 psi with the new pump and the pump lasted one day and I actually heard it shred. Thanks again for your response's... very cool!! Okay one more question....This Trike is a work in progress. The gentleman that started it has passed, and we will be finishing it. Its a 1951 server car frame and rear end thats been stretched and raked....Its pretty heavy and I am wondering if this my motor will be able to sustain the weight? I'm thinking it should, I'm a little worried about the clutch. Again thanks so much for your response, its much appreciated. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The pump ultimately runs off the crank. If they are going that fast, I'd suspect crank damage, particularly given the history for that motor. If the crank is bad though, I'm surprised the pistons / cylinders aren't all chewed up. | ||
| Buellistic |
OIL PUMP Class 101, just PM me for copy !!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
I don't think the bronze looking pump isn't bronze. From WikiPedia... Mechanical applications[edit] Because of its stiffness, light weight and dimensional stability over a wide temperature range, beryllium metal is used for lightweight structural components in the defense and aerospace industries in high-speed aircraft, guided missiles, space vehicles, and satellites. Several liquid-fuel rockets have used rocket nozzles made of pure beryllium.[56][57] Beryllium powder was itself studied as a rocket fuel, but this use has never materialized.[24] A small number of bicycle frames were built with beryllium, at "astonishing" prices.[58] From 1998 to 2000, the McLaren Formula One team used Mercedes-Benz engines with beryllium-aluminium-alloy pistons.[59] The use of beryllium engine components was banned following a protest by Scuderia Ferrari.[60] Mixing about 2.0% beryllium into copper forms an alloy called beryllium copper that is six times stronger than copper alone.[61] Beryllium alloys are used in many applications because of their combination of elasticity, high electrical conductivity and thermal conductivity, high strength and hardness, nonmagnetic properties, as well as its good corrosion and fatigue resistance.[24][3] These applications include non-sparking tools that are used near flammable gases (beryllium nickel), in springs and membranes (beryllium nickel and beryllium iron) used in surgical instruments and high temperature devices.[24][3] As little as 50 parts per million of beryllium alloyed with liquid magnesium leads to a significant increase in oxidation resistance and decrease in flammability.[3] Beryllium Copper Adjustable Wrench The high elastic stiffness of beryllium has led to its extensive use in precision instrumentation, e.g. in inertial guidance systems and in the support mechanisms for optical systems.[5] Beryllium-copper alloys were also applied as a hardening agent in "Jason pistols", which were used to strip the paint from the hulls of ships.[62] An earlier major application of beryllium was in brakes for military airplanes because of its hardness, high melting point, and exceptional ability to dissipate heat. Environmental considerations have led to substitution by other materials.[5] To reduce costs, beryllium can be alloyed with significant amounts of aluminium, resulting in the AlBeMet alloy (a trade name). This blend is cheaper than pure beryllium, while still retaining many desirable properties. Probably would not have helped though, sounds like something else is wrong. The only thing I know about the clutch is that of *all* the bikes I have had (a bunch), none has had as bulletproof a clutch as the Buells. Clutches are one thing HD really nailed. | ||
| Hwood |
thanks again to everyone, after reading all response's you guys have eased my mind some. this is my summation. this is the third time,( that I know of), that this motor has ran without oil preasure and most likely done some damage to the crank, i saw some scaring in the front cylinder when i put new gaskets on the top end, and the lifters are probably shot. so i will take the s1 to the shop here in ponca and let them repair this motor for me... i was thinking about the 1250 head kit and i could use some imput about cam size that would work good with this 1250 head kit. thanks to Reepicheep for the info on the Beryllium... very cool..( i think my BUELL needs some missile parts in it)... again any info will be helpfull... thank you... | ||
| Dannybuell |
have you replaced your oil lines? when my pump froze up there were bits of hard rubber near the pump area. | ||
| Oldog |
Sorry to hear of your problem, there is a history of issues with some of the early S1 / S2 motors and the oil pump drive gears this info used to be in the KV. I would consider stripping the engine to the cases and having the crank re-built re-placed and new bearings / bushings all the way up. either way Best of luck with the project... |
