G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through November 08, 2013 » Oh snap... « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gnutlethal
Posted on Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just when I thought that at least the bike runs fine while the weather is shite...

Jims Ttool is the only option?
Or can I try to weld a nut on?
Any other viable solutions?

Thank you!




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Stev0
Posted on Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did this in situ on a sporty with a 12" long series drill bit of about 3/16"-1/4" ..

Drilled it and easy out.

If you have to buy a drill bit to do it then try and get a left hand fluted one as often you can be lucky and it will bite and remove it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have a nice flat broken-face surface to drill into. I just pulled a similar bolt out of my Ulysses' case (broken sidestand bolt)...but my drilling face wasn't nearly as flat. I'm jealous.

Pick up a set of reverse-flute removers. The packages have what drill size to use for each flute. I got mine drilled out, but it still wouldn't budge...so I hit it with a propane torch to get the loctite hot. Backed out about halfway...and locked back into place. Heated it up again...out she came.

Patience and a steady hand will win the day. I use the drill bits with pilot tips - less bit-walk that way. Slow speed until you have a visible divot started.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gnutlethal
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 04:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In the end, I had to let the local HD barn fix the exhaust stud.
They had been glued in by the previous workshop and were quite a bi**h to remove, including drilling and inserting a helicoil.

Been driving around for about 1k mile and the new ones are holding on fine.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Kilroy
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if those are nylon locknuts, I don't know if thay can withstand the high temps by the exhaust
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, July 16, 2013 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1000.

Lose the nylocks, the heat will melt the "ny" and you'll lose the "lock".

Use either lockwashers, or you can get dimple-style locking nuts that don't use nylon or locktite.

I also recently added header nuts to my touchup-paint-marked "critical fasteners". Dab of bright orange paint on the nut, dab on the flange - if they stay lined up, it's good to go. If they go out of alignment...time to retorque. Same as rotor bolts, axle nuts, axle pinch bolts, caliper bolts, shifter linkage bolts, primary bolts....my bike has orange zits everywhere, but no loose bolts!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gnutlethal
Posted on Wednesday, July 17, 2013 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for your concerns.

Well, the shop told me that they've been installing these nuts for the last two or three decades and they've had no failure to report yet.
Another option they've recommended if I was to use ordinary nuts, were "nord-lock" washers.

I've not been able to find any loosening of the nuts, after religiously checking them with the torque wrench after each ride.

Before having the shop do the exhaust studs, I already optimistically bought a set of Stage 8 nuts.
So in case of an emergency I'll simply switch to these overengineered nuts. ; )

« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration