| Author | Message | ||
     Phlegm |
Ok, so I snapped off an exhaust stud while trying to remove it with a hammer drill. I know, bad idea, I learned my lesson. Anyways, I bought the Georges Garage Exhaust stud drill jig and have succeeded in drilling through the stud. Only problem now is that the remaining husk of the stud is still in the hole and I can't pick it out. I've tried getting some grip on it and turning it out, but no dice. Do you guys think it would be safe to just run a tap through to clean it out? There is a little less then 1/4" of thread, so the tap is able to get a decent start. Thanks in advance, Michael | ||
| Jramsey |
Do you guys think it would be safe to just run a tap through to clean it out? That is how it is done,you drill the minor diameter of the threads out and pick the major diameter out with the tap. A Gun tap (spiral point) is the preferred choice, just go at it easy, about a half to one turn at a time. } | ||
| Dannybuell |
There is a tool that helps with that. http://www.google.com/webhp?source=search_app#outp ut=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=jims+exhaust+stud+tool& oq=jim%27s+exhaust&gs_l=hp.1.2.0i13l4.675.4557.0.6 931.13.13.0.0.0.0.210.1826.0j12j1.13.0...0.0.0..1c .1.15.psy-ab.WJu2tvsftGE&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&b vm=bv.47244034,d.cGE&fp=96e70d11bba84a0e&biw=1600& bih=1087 | ||
| Phlegm |
Cool, thanks James. Danny, I bought this one here. http://www.georges-garage.com/evo_engine.htm It was 80 bucks shipped. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you havent quite drilled down to the threads in the head, an easy out may now work as well. If it doesn't come out easy with the easy out, stop and do something else. Go slow and careful if you do use a tap. I did what you are trying to do once, and the tap went in OK but then stuck, so I backed it out so I wouldn't break it. Of course a quarter turn into backing it out, some chip jammed somewhere, and locked it there also. I fussed for a while then the tap snapped.  Not a good day. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Half a turn in, a quarter turn back. Repeat as needed. Use lots of tap magic. | ||
| Preybird1 |
This is why i took my heads off and had the studs increased in size to 10mm instead of the factory 7mm. The factory studs are Chinese junk! I got a grade 8 10mm studs to correct the problem i was happening. | ||
| Buellistic |
Complete EXHAUST SYSTEM Class 101, just PM me for the HELP "INFO" ... Has what is never put in the FSM and STUD removal !!! | ||
| Kc_zombie |
++ Preybird! | ||
| Alfau |
More ideas on how to overcome the X1's many failures. http://web.archive.org/web/20090924193601/http://w ww.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/Marriott/x1/index2.htm#Exh aust | ||
| Buellistic |
Just can not understand why you'll have so much trouble these exhaust studs ??? Have 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride and still have all the OEM EXHAUST STUDS still in place !!! Any body want to try to help me figure this out ??? | ||
| 01x1buell |
hey now buellistic simmer..... | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I think that exhaust studs break for one of two reasons: 1. They are too tight. 2. They are too loose. If you try to tighten the nuts tight enough to keep them from working loose, they can snap off. If they get loose and the pipe moves around, they can snap off. To solve those problems I use 5/16 x 24 tpi coupling nuts instead of the OEM nuts. The coupling nuts are predrilled for safety wire before installation. Then I install and torque to spec with a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench and wire the nuts so they can't come loose. So far, since using that method, I have not had any problems with header flange nuts. | ||
| Oldog |
Reep I respectfully disagree the studs are small enough that trying to use that tiny ez out will just make a mess, as the bolt is thin and as you apply pressure to the tool it will either expand the threads jamming it, or break off in the head. if a drill jig was used on the stud and the hole is on center, drilling to the tap drill size will as JRamsey put it allow you to pick out the stud remnant. My comments on the studs is that I believe that they get brittle over time and that they are a little undersized, I change them from time to time and put anti seize on them. As Buellistic states careful assembley and attention to the mountings help prevent problems. I guess thats why he has over 100K miles on his bike and no broken studs. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You are probably right Jim. All the options here are bad, last time I drilled it out I still ended up breaking a tap, and I wasn't forcing anything (it got stuck going a quarter turn forward, then locked in trying to back out). The day before I had to remove two stuck rotor bolts from a KDZX-200 front wheel, and on a whim after drilling the bolts down to just about the threads I hit them with an easy out (gently) and they came right out like butter, even though they were stuck like glue before drilling. I think making them hollow took all the fight out of them. | ||
| Coxster |
I had my exhaust off a half dozen times last year ( before a kind badwebber sold me a Stainless header ) I had enough problems I took the rear head to a machine shop. I keep a 1/4" drive ratchet with 12" extension and a 1/2" socket in the top of my toolbox to check the nuts every couple of weeks. I finally went to loctite 222 ( which is NOT rated for this size fastener ) and it keeps moisture out of the threads, they haven't moved since last October. My rear studs are 5/16-18 NC and grade 8 too. ++ to harleyelf for proper technique | ||
| 01x1buell |
i broke a stud last year , i bought the jims tool and when i drilled it out the shell of the stud came right out ,a and all i did was chase it with a tap to clean up threads ,, not a problem since due to proper exhaust install tips. | ||
| Alfau |
I think the problem with the original flange is that it simply won't fit and has to be frozen b4 you can nearly squash it in and the other option, the flat flange, simply isn't thick enough to seal correctly without straining friendship with the stud. That and the poor design of the exhaust itself in the first place. Too many failures to argue with that. Someone is now setting himself up for another blood pressure spike. | ||
| Oldog |
Reep, My thinking on your brake carrier is that with the heads removed much of the tension and resistance was removed from the bolt, In your defense I am not much of a fan of "EZ OUTs" I guess that the tap you used was 4 flute, VS 2.. The 4 flute tap has much less material in the body and is weaker, the additional chip clearance is said to help, prevent breaking, problem is the tap flutes are thin and flimsy so you trade one problem for another. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I agree with you on the easy outs Jim... my tool box has a whole drawer of them, labelled "Easy Outs" in big print, then in smaller print "abandon all hope ye who enter here". (No kidding, I really wrote that on there when I labelled the drawer). | ||
| Preybird1 |
I also played the easy out game.........And after i broke one in the hole i learned. The last time i had to mess with one it took over 2 hrs of grinding and drilling to get it out! I had to weld a bolt to the easy out and reverse it out. Then the grinding and drilling started. I will never have to do that again!   | ||
| Slaughter |
After a decade of wrassling with the race bikes, when I have a stud go bad, I do the Jim's tool and don't even TRY to clear out the threads; I go right to helicoil. Pay close attention to NOT stressing the studs on reassembly. You have to tighten the whole exhaust system a little at a time so the stresses even out. |
