| Author | Message | ||
     Kellenbm |
Does anyone know if the Oil pump from a Buell Blast 2000 P3 500 will work with the Buell X1 lightning 2000 engine? They look the same. At least from pictures. | ||
| Oldog |
Not sure, it would most likely work with an XB engine, not sure about a "tuber", a later Sportster engine might be a better choice. see if some one can give you a part cross ref ( numbers ) What did you find with your earlier problem on the stuck lifter? | ||
| Buellistic |
Before you do anything on the OIL PUMP read my OIL PUMP Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
2000 was a year of improvement in the oil pumps. I would suggest 2000 and up as a replacement. | ||
| Buellistic |
The OIL PUMP was up-dated in 1998, "BUT" the XB OIL PUMP is the BEST up-date !!! | ||
| Kellenbm |
OLdog The lifter problem is still not completely figured out. The faulty or scoured oil pump and metal in the oil tank are what I have found so far. The cam case area was clean of debris. I recently changed Oil filters and oil. I did not inspect the old filter. So I am not sure of the spread of glitter. I don't want to buy new tappets unless I have to. Not sure how to test them. Gonna post about it. | ||
| Oldog |
I honestly don't know if they can be cleaned I would be looking at the condition of the roller, In thinking about it, a flush in absolutely perfectly clean solvent MIGHT do, followed at once by clean light oil to prevent rusting. Too bad they are not really "user serviceable" nothing like a tear down / clean / inspect In your situation I would want to know what had damaged the oil pump, I presume that the Damage started with FOD and then the pump stared making "glitter" either way I would replace the hoses that feed the pump / tank Also remove the tank and clean it well. sadly I would want to check the crank / rod condition as well, which takes more time and costs more money. it sounds promising that the lifter bores were not damaged nor were the cam bushings | ||
| Alfau |
CLEANING AND INSPECTION 1. Clean all parts, except roller/lifter assembly, thoroughly in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air. NOTE Inside and outside micrometers used for measuring lifters and lifter guides must be calibrated to ensure accurate readings. 2. Inspect hydraulic lifters for excessive clearance in guide. Accurately measure lifter bore inner diameter with a gauge. a. Clearance should be within 0.0008-0.0020 in.(0.0203-0.0508 mm). b. Fit a new lifter and/or replace crankcases if clearance exceeds SERVICE WEAR LIMIT of 0.0030 in.(0.076 mm). 3. Check lifter roller freeplay. a. Roller clearance on pin should be within 0.0006-0.0010 in. (0.0152-0.0254 mm). b. Replace lifters if clearance exceeds SERVICE WEAR LIMIT of 0.0015 in. (0.0381 mm). 4. Check lifter roller end clearance. a. End clearance should be within 0.0080.022 in.(0.203-0.559 mm). b. Replace lifters if clearance exceeds SERVICE WEAR LIMIT of 0.026 in. (0.660 mm). 5. Soak lifters in clean engine oil. Keep covered until assembly. | ||
| Oldog |
Thanks Alfau, do not attempt to clean the lifters... those measurements will be tough to take if you don't have some high end tools or a lot of practice with mics and snap gauges | ||
| Kellenbm |
Yup sorry to say I have to tear this thing down. The lifters are in good condition the pump has been replaced but now it is clattering. The clattering will not stop. I pulled the cam case cover again and while turning the crank back and forth it seems to make clunking noise. I would thing the only thing I should hear is air coming out or compression noise not clunking. |
