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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through March 01, 2013 » Replacing top end gaskets, ring/honing question? « Previous Next »

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Rsm688
Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 07:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I have my motor out of my bike right now and am gonna re powdercoat my heads and was planning on replacing all the top end gaskets. Now I am not extemely engine savy, can I replace the top end gaskets (from base gasket on up) without replacing the rings on the piston and having the cylinder honed? Would it be a better idea to have the cylinders honed/new rings installed?

I dont have the tools or knowledge to do that so what would be a general price of having that done at a local shop?

Lastly, is having someone dehone the cylinder fool proof enough that I could trust a local shop to do it?


1999 M2 with 9500 miles on it

Thanks,
Spencer
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Willyboy386
Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Rsm688;

If you're gonna have it off, at the very least do the rings.

This of course is after you do a compression check to see where you're at.
If you've got great compression and little variation; Then if it ain't broke don't fix it right?

B.T.W: when pulling those heads, it will unload the base gaskets. If not addressed, it will increases the risk of leakage.

Thanks,

Willy

(Message edited by willyboy386 on January 29, 2013)
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Rsm688
Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Willyboy, I plan on replacing all the gaskets from base gaskets up so they will be nice and new Cometic gaskets. WIll also be replacing the head bolts as well.


I thought if you replace the rings you need to also hone the cylinders?

And with my motor already out of my bike whats the easiest way to check the compression? The bike runs great as is so I didnt even think to check before I pulled it out


Thanks,
Spencer
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RSM

I paid about 25$ per jug + rings for each jug
Make sure that

A. Post Hone the Jug is washed out with soap & water, then dried and oiled before rust sets in.

B get new rings they are not too expensive
fit per directions, GET Extra Wrist Pin Clips DAMHIK =)

Install per directions.
new gaskets GTG
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Kalali
Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"This of course is after you do a compression check to see where you're at."

What is considered ideal compression on an X1?
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Akbuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From my '01 X-1 service manual:

Compression tests should be done w/engine at normal operating temp when possible.

Compression is normal if final readings are 120psi or more, and no more than 10psi variance between cyls.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Rsm688
Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whats the best way to check it with the motor out of the bike and will the 120psi range differ if the bike is not at normal operating temperatures?

How difficult is it to get the whole top end situated back together and new rings installed and gapped and all? I have never done it before so this will be my first time and if theres a good chance I might mess it up I might want to have someone else install the rings and then I can just assemble myself.

thanks,
spencer
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Arizona_buell
Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why would you NOT hone it and replace the rings? I have one with only 10,000 miles and have had the valves ground and replaced the rings,If it is apart then no reason not to have the extra piece of mind it will all be good. I would replace the valve seals too with viton seals.. Just do it..
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Blks1l
Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2013 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had my 19,500 mile S1 apart to reseal the topend this past summer, I had very little carbon buildup on the piston , combustion chamber, and the top of the cylinder. The carbon buildup I had at the top of the cylinder came off just when I was cleaning the cylinders. I reassembled it without honing the cylinders or replacing the rings, you could still see the original cross hashmarks in them. I didn't take a before and after compression reading, but wasn't have any engine issues.

Long story short, if everything looks good why rering and hone it, replace the gaskets and seals and put it back together, and be running the same day.
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Blackm2
Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2013 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Am I the only one that thinks honing and ring replacement is crazy at 9500 miles? It's barely broken in at that mileage. Unless there is a problem with oil useage/smoking, busted rings, why the extra expense and labor?
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Vecchio_lupo
Posted on Friday, February 01, 2013 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had my S3 apart due to leaky base gaskets at 40k miles. I did deck the heads and seat valves along with all new gaskets and seals (HD OEM) along with billet pushrod tube bases.

The thing I did not do was ring and hone. At 40k there was no perceptible wear and all was within specs. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

I think the components were just wearing into one another. Runs better than ever.
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Essmjay
Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2013 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want to skip the rings just leave the pistons in the jugs when you lift off the cylinders. That way all the wear lines will still match up.
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Skntpig
Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2013 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would skip rings and hone. I did mine around 30K and it really didn't need it. Very little wear.
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