Author |
Message |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 10:35 am: |
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I want to add a stenzel bar to my S3 when I put in the new front iso that's on the way. Since I grew up working in my dad's machine shop, I want to make my own. Even though he's retired after 35 years and is closed for business, there is still a mill up-and-running. I made my own overdraw back-in-the-day for my PSE compound bow; it was nicer and a hell of a lot cheaper than a factory one. I figure a bar w/2 holes and a slight bend would be a cinch to make. Anyone who has info on making one, I'd love to have it. A template w/dimensions, etc. would be great! Thanks for all your help. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 11:09 am: |
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You will have to modify the the D washer dimension if using the later ISO. (Message edited by Jramsey on January 08, 2013) |
Bikerrides
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 11:44 am: |
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James, Do you have more specific instructions on the mods needed for the later iso that's on the way from American Sport Bike? Also, what grade aluminum should be used or does it matter? Based on what I've been reading on BWB about stenzel bars, a longer front iso bolt would be needed. Do you have info on that? |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 12:02 pm: |
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Leave the counterbore out of the front and use a longer bolt and sandwich it between the ISO and the top washer and nut. Any 606x series should work fine. Bend/shape the bar and drill front hole and install under the ISO nut/washer, at the rear use a threaded transfer punch to mark the rear hole. I think Gowindward posted that drawing I posted,can't remember. Anyway I made one and like others didn't care for the added vibes it created so I removed it. (Message edited by Jramsey on January 08, 2013) |
Jramsey
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 12:09 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/396773.html |
Foximus
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 01:00 pm: |
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Weld a ridge across the top and double the strength and rigidity. |
Lakes
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 05:06 pm: |
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Like has been said don't machine the counter for old type ISO. but i hope you drill out that late ISO & use the larger diam grade 12 bolt just slightly longer. as the stock old style front ISO bolt when nut was fully tentioned, the end of the bolt was about at the end of the Thread but a wanted some thread out the top just to be extra safe. as i ride a lot do a lot of miles on my bike. also i used high tenstile washer where bolt goes through engine mount. i did not use the washer that came with the late ISO as i don't think it was designed for my model bike and is for the small dian bolt. no difference in vibration for me. & since motor mods my motor feels much smoother. but see for yourself. i'm very happy. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 05:13 pm: |
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The fender washer that comes with the new style isolator doesn't go under the bolt, it goes in between the isolator and the engine mount. It is a snubber to keep the rubber from being torn by the engine mount if they make contact. Note to admins: 'Doens't' is not flagged as a misspelled word. I guess someone added it to the badweb dictionary. |
Lakes
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 09:43 pm: |
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Ok thanks Hootowl, |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2013 - 11:36 pm: |
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I would be interested if you make an extra one. :-) |
Jeff73mach1
| Posted on Friday, April 12, 2013 - 05:03 pm: |
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very helpful info, thanks all. |
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