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Foximus
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 10:30 pm: | 
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Well.... my belt finally broke tonight, so thats going to kick my ass in gear for finishing my swingarm build.
So if anyone wants my steel swing arm, I'll tig up any type of brace they want on it... |
Tombo
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 06:10 pm: |
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One of the four bolts is hard to get at without customizing a wrench for it (cutting and bending), otherwise, it is not a bad job, just takes time. It also helps to have the right stands for the job. |
Roderick
| | Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 12:08 am: |
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One of the four bolts is hard to get at without customizing a wrench for it...
Aarrgghh...I was afraid of that...
Now...Some have warned that the '98 engine mount block (in the bike) may require some 'modifications' to fit the alum swingarm.
But...I do have a new mount block (47594-94YA) and roughly mated it to an X1 swingarm. The bolt holes lined up. What 'issues' could there be?
Am really looking forward to this project this winter and appreciate any advice from anyone. |
Easy_rider
| | Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 01:49 am: |
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A custom wrench is not absolutely necessary, though access was definitely not made with basic tools in mind. I happen to have a curved wrench that fit the bill with some patience. It has a high curve that reached over the frame and swingarm. I was told it was an old distributor wrench. Since I'm pretty familiar with the Chevy wrenches and it's not that offset style I'm assuming it was a Ford/Dodge. I'd send a pic but I'm away for a few days.... PM & remind me if you want to see a pic. |
Tombo
| | Posted on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 07:19 am: |
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The newer block should mount up fine and will save you from grinding some clearance on the old one. |
Littlebuggles
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2012 - 04:17 am: |
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I believe I used a crow's foot attachment, on a ratchet extension to reach that difficult bolt when I replaced my bad isolators.
I tried to look at the ATC method to see if that was what I used when I did my iso's but your link didn't work. Have you looked at the Daniel C Starr method? I recall reading it after I did my swap and thought it might have been good to try. Maybe Tombo can give some input on it since he is already familiar with the ATC method.
Also, I recall reading that the method outlined in the Buell manual stresses the front motor mount hardware to the head. Head bolts have been reported broken here a lot more often over the years following shop replacement, or shop procedure replacement of the rear isolators.
There is a hardware specialty shop in South Salt Lake that can get you the f911 bolts. If you want to get them and do it locally, I'll try and drive by there in the next few days since I can't recall what they are called. Address is either 1700 or 1300 South and roughly 250 West. |
Roderick
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2012 - 05:01 am: |
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Have you looked at the Daniel C Starr method?
I did. I think in my case, the ATC method is better because am changing both swingarm and engine block mount. So might as well just undo those four bolts and slide the entire assembly out. At least that how 'easy' it looked. Then while that section is gutted, change the belt and isolators. I figure that with nothing in the way, the isos should not prove difficult (?). I do not have a lift so will have to do everything on ground. I have not yet crawled under and see which bolt is the most difficult to access. I have the larger 4.5g tank to be painted and swap out so when that time comes, I will change the front iso as well.
There is a hardware specialty shop in South Salt Lake that can get you the f911 bolts. If you want to get them and do it locally, I'll try and drive by there in the next few days since I can't recall what they are called. Address is either 1700 or 1300 South and roughly 250 West.
That would be great and greatly appreciated. I have been investigating on how/where to get the replacements.
I just recently repaired and repacked the SS2R can and it turned out excellent. The exhaust sounds smoother and deeper. Throttle response is better but I cannot tell if it was because the repacked can or because it has been sitting for nearly two weeks. |
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