| Author | Message | ||
     Buellfuell |
The front calipers on my M2 are having trouble releasing. I already took apart the caliper and removed any dirt/goop in the system (bike sat for at least a year before I bought it). I polished the pistons as they had some corrosion on them. There is no evidence of leaks in the system, even after polishing the pistons. This morning, I get about 2 miles from my house and the front brakes lock up again. Since I'll be taking the bike to Biketoberfest, I'd feel better with new pistons and seals in the caliper. When I looked up the part number on http://parts.drivebike.ru/fiche/browse/view?model= 5156&diagram=301460, I get 44148-98Y. When I look that part number up on Google, I saw it was replaced with H0020.FA. Can someone please tell me what's included with these part numbers? I need the pistons and seals. Thanks! (Message edited by buellfuell on October 01, 2012) | ||
| Kevmean |
It is more likely either the wrong brake lever fitted (tuber and XB are similar but not the same) OR the small return port in the master cylinder is blocked with crap not allowing the fluid to return to the master cylinder reservoir as the system heats up. | ||
| Buellfuell |
My plan is to completely take apart the brake system and clean it. When I first took the front caliper apart, I found rusty goop behind the pistons. I was able to remove the goop, clean up the corrosion on the pistons and re-install them without leaks. Do you have a picture of the return port on the master cylinder? Where on the MC would I find it? (Message edited by buellfuell on October 01, 2012) (Message edited by buellfuell on October 01, 2012) | ||
| Kevmean |
Here was a similar problem on an XB  http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=138 16&p=188717&hilit=brake+master#p188717 | ||
| Buellfuell |
Thanks for the tip! That guy had an issue with the lever not allowing the master cylinder piston to return completely, which kept the pads engaged. Does the M2 have an adjuster wheel for the lever position? I ask this because the brake lever on my M2 does not have any adjustment. I compared it to the lever in the OEM parts diagram and it looks the same. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
The M2 came with a non-adjustable lever, though they are available through the aftermarket. Do not use an XB lever, for the reason Kev mentioned above. If you want to get an adjustable reach lever American Sport Bike sell them as well as a brake rebuild kit which has pistons, o-ring seals and I believe a new spring (for the back of the brake pads) pin, and the pin cap who-haw. You might replace your bleeder screw while you're at it if it's showing corrosion of munged/rounded corners. Relief valve is easy to see when you pull the master cover off, look at the front of the reservoir and you see the piston and spring, then there's a little hole drilled in there too, that's the valve. Once you put new DOT 4 fluid in there you may want to unbolt the assy from the bars and tip it forward and back while gently squeezing the lever. When I rebuilt my brake system a year or two ago I really had to fiddle with that reservoir a lot because of the air trapped in the system. Much of it bled out through the relief valve when I was fiddling withe the assy. | ||
| Buellfuell |
Took apart the master cylinder last night. Found the return port completely plugged with rust. I tried blowing it out with compressed air which helped a bit, but I could tell the flow was still restricted. I ended up enlarging the return hole slightly which greatly helped with the flow. Cleaned out the reservoir as best as I could, bled the system, and so far no issues. Brakes don't feel as stiff as they did before. | ||
| Kevmean |
Glad you got it sorted :-) | ||
| Buellfuell |
Believe it or not, the front caliper issues continue.... When taking apart my calipers to polish the corrosion off the pistons, I found the brake pad pin to be stuck in the caliper. I tried every method possible to remove the stuck pin; heat, PB Blast soaking, screw extractor, jamming in Torx bit, vise grips, nothing worked! I ended up drilling out the old caliper pin, luckily the new pin I purchased from HD has a 9mm head which was larger than the old hole. After careful drilling, the new pin is in and ready to use. This time, anti-sieze has been installed to keep this issue from happening again. Trying to decide whether or not to paint the triple trees since I've already painted the fork lowers satin black. Rebuilding the forks has really created a "snowball" of a project! She's gotta be ready for Biketoberfest! | ||
| Jayvee |
Satin paint over that textured surface? Would it still be 'satin' or more like cellulite? | ||
| Buellfuell |
I sanded the forks smooth so the finish is satin. The old paint was chipped and looking very sorry. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
It does look nice on those Buells I've seen that done on. Or as long as the metal is not porous at the mold joint the faces on those triples polish up very nicely. I did mine in 2003 when I replaced my fork after a crash, have only needed to retouch them once or twice since then. I can find or take a picture for you if you'd like. I believe a few others here have polished them as well. If you are so inclined you could sand and polish the faces and the flat tops and bottoms too. That seemed impractical and a little much to me though. | ||
| 46champ |
My bike did the same thing 3 years or so ago brake would slowly tighten up till the bike would stop. To get home I would manually retract the pads with a leatherman tool. The real fix was a caliper rebuild kit from the dealer had new O-rings and pucks. Haven't had any problems since that was about 30,000 miles ago. |
