| Author | Message | ||
     Thejosh |
So I rode in to work today and everything is going fine but when I downshift the neutral light only comes on for a second and then goes away, the bike is still in neutral but when I apply slight downward pressure the light comes back on, anymore pressure and the bike shifts into first. Shifting is normal, I looked at the switch and it doesn't feel loose. When I shut the bike off everything seemed normal, neutral light came on and stayed on and wiggling the shifter seemed to have no effect. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Sounds like it is wearing out. My X1 neutral light comes on when i pull the clutch at any time and i just don't look at it anymore. Do you have a service manual for your year and make? Is there a section about this part and how to check it? Not being rude, I was just wondering? | ||
| Thejosh |
It just happened on my way into work, will check it when I get home, just wondering if the primary chain is too loose or if the shift drum is rattling around. Like I said, shifting is normal, no rough spots or hard shifting. Its a 2000 X1, pretty sure its the standard switch. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Happened to my 2000 X1 before. The switch was the culprit. I wouldn't have even fixed it, but pulling into work at the time required one very short stop with the kickstand down. When the neutral switch doesn't work, you can't lower the kickstand without holding the clutch lever or the engine will die  | ||
| Thejosh |
I hear that, anyone got the part #, I hate havin to go to HD and letting them know I have a Buell. | ||
| Akbuell |
From my -01 X-1 parts book: 33900-99 Switch, neutral indicator- w/washer | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
My neutral light quit working a few years ago. No big deal. It never served a useful purpose anyway. All it did was light up when I put the bike in neutral. Neutral has always been easy to find - about half way between 1st and 2nd gear. Now my Buell is just a bit more like the 4 old Triumphs in the garage. They never had, or needed, an indicator light to tell me I was in neutral. That said, if I ever have that area of the bike apart, I'll probably fix it just because I can. | ||
| Thejosh |
True, but it is nice to warm it up with the kick stand down, thats pretty much the only reason I need it. | ||
| Kalali |
Well, your nuts are bigger than mine. I would not let my clutch out unless I see the green neutral light while waiting for the light to change... | ||
| 01x1buell |
well if you just let the clutch out slowly, you can feel if the clutch is grabbing, and you can feel it in the shifter IF YOU FEEL the bike when you shift it.  | ||
| Thejosh |
Like I said, wouldn't be a problem, I just can't warm it up while I put on my helmet. I never looked down to see neutral, I felt it. It's just the switch causes the bike to die when unnecessary. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
My 2002 M2 Parts manual shows the following; 33900-99 SWITCH, neutral indicator - w/washer Hope that helps. | ||
| Thejosh |
Thanks Dave for thr part #, I replaced the switch and it started and idled fine with the kickstand down, about mid ride it started doing it again, neutral light will only come on if I apply slight downward pressure on the shifter, right before it goes into first. Think maybe something is loose? Anyone have any ideas what to check first? | ||
| Socalrider |
On my 2000 m2 I had the same type of problem it turned out that the clip for the shift detent plate was failing and finely did. Ed | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Detent plate on the baker smooth shift kit is held on with an allen screw instead of a clip Worth the money for the extra reliability, not worth the money for a smoother shift imo. (didn't make much difference) | ||
| Socalrider |
I ended up drilling and tapping my shift drum and used a 10/32 button head screw | ||
| Thejosh |
Anyone got pics? | ||
| Socalrider |
 | ||
| Thejosh |
Is it possible to replace the clip without removing the clutch or shift drum? Gonna wait til winter to do the screw thing. Guessing I will have to at least take off the primary. | ||
| Socalrider |
Do a search on shift drum there is a lot of info here. You will need to take the Trans out once you get the primary out the Trans is relatively easy Buellistic has compiled lots of “how to” repair info and is willing to share. Jransey is the one that told me how to drill and tape the shift drum. | ||
| Thejosh |
Okay, so I got her home, she was shifting funny the whole way. Got her into my shop and took the primary off. I noticed a piece of sheet metal at the bottom. It was half of the chain tensioner bracket. The front side of the chain tensioner was broken off. I am going to take the clutch basket of but was wondering if the clutch spring tool was necessary. Also, would a snap ring do better than the original pawl clip? I understand that drilling and tapping is the best way possible but the machinist I use is a little busy and I have no drill press.....yet. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Jolly |
Dave 02, this made me laugh out loud due to a similar story! I recently bought a 2000 Moto Guzzi V11 and rode it three days home, at one point I stopped north of Pittsburgh at a local Guzzi "dealer" for a quick check out of the bike and all fluids changed. the guy that owned the "shop" had to be in his late 70 at a minimum, but man was he a character!!! anyway I mentioned that my Neutral light wouldnt come on and asked if he had time to fix it or at least look at it while changing fluids...his comment.."sure if you want to pay me for labor, but, what are you Polish? you dont know where Neutral is? its always in the same spot!"...of course after that I did the only thing I could, nah, just change the fluids, I know where Neutral is.....now every time I try and ensure it is in Neutral I silently laugh....and you think a Buell rattles and shakes.. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Clutch comes off as a complete assembly, you don't need the compressor for that. You also do not need to pull the trans to replace the clip in the detent plate if it is wearing. Detent plate should be sitting flat against the end of the shift drum, if it is not a pin on the end of it has probably drifted outward. Remove the clip, tap the pins back in and replace the plate and install a new spring clip. then reassemble. I don't know that you'd want to use a snap ring unless you placed a washer in there too to take up the space and maintain pressure against the plate. I'm not sure there's enough room in there for that. You could sure try it since snap rings aren't prohibitively expensive. Use a #32 (.116") drill bit to adjust the shifter pawl as per the manual and reassemble. | ||
| Thejosh |
Cool, I didn't think removing the clutch plates would be necessary if I needed the entire hub off. | ||
| Thejosh |
Alright, got the tranny out, everything seemed pretty easy. The clip was missing. So how does the shift drum come out? I was thinking pull the cotter pins and the pins come out but wasn't sure. | ||
| Socalrider |
Do you have a repair manual ? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
By the "clip" you are referring to the pin on the back of the drum that depresses the neutral light switch? I wonder if a long set screw would be more secure than a pin pressed into the drum? Maybe use a stainless one so it would be less brittle than standard stock. The tranny section of the S1 manual here on the bad web will get you through that part without too much trouble. The transmission is pretty much entirely the same on your bike (seems like maybe there was a gear ration change in later years but otherwise that transmission is the same). Scroll to the bottom for "Service Manual - Buell S1 Lightning Service Manual" , just above Buell FAQs: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3607.html?1346123426 | ||
| Thejosh |
Cool, thanks bug. | ||
| Thejosh |
So, update for all who were wondering. I got the shift drum machined and reinstalled the tranny. I put the new "upgraded" belt tensioner, new sealing nut, and a new detent plate. I put it all back together and all is well. Thanks for the help! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
So didja have them polish it up while they were at it? What did they do to the drum, set up for a button head screw to secure your detent plate? It's always nice to hear the follow up on this sort of project, many have been left open, without any type of update once the questions were asked. | ||
| Thejosh |
I polished the drum, had a friend with a machine shop drill and tap it for a 8/32, then I put the widest button head I could find on it. Had to purchase a torque wrench capable of 250 ft/lbs though. Didn't take long to put it all back together, shifts like butter now. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Shifting like butter is a good thing. So when you polish the drum do you only do the outside surfaces, or do you smooth out the grooves as well? | ||
| Thejosh |
went all out with a dremel tool. Had some time on my hands so I picked up a cloth wheel and some rouge, got the grooves as well as the drum. If I had all of the parts to start off with, I dont think it would have taken very long at all. Like I said, thanks for the help, worked just like you said. |
