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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through March 08, 2013 » Chirp chirp goes the clutch « Previous Next »

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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My clutch is making a chirping sound when I take off from a stop? Oil level is good, and am running HD sport trans oil. It is adjusted good, and seems good otherwise.
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like you have removed the SPRING PLATE(aka grenade plate) !!!

You now have to learn how to release your clutch to get moving ...

Questions, just PM me ???
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes it was removed. So how do you release it now?
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to learn to release it slowly with learned finger control !!!

Know what you are going through because when "i" did mine laying 5 foot of rubber was a norm until better finger control set in ...

You have BASICALLY a RACING CLUTCH now, so when you are ready to go, BE READY !!!
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Lakes
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 06:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well, i'm about to remove that spring plate too & fit a barnett exra plate clutch in its place.
so will find out what you mean next weekend
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01x1buell
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i just put a barnett clutch and spring in my x1 and it does take some getting used to but when u get it it is wonderful
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jerome,
I have the same problem on my S2. It started after I replaced the grenade plate.
I didn't use new plates as the clutch was old.. I think the difference in plates is what is causing the chirping. It sure isn't the rear tire! I just ignore it.
The clutch has about 60,000 miles on it. It will be replaced this winter with one from Energy One.

Brad
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2012 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" put used clutch plates in my PRODUCT IMPROVED clutch UP-DATE and it still has the original SPRING,diaphragm(spring plate) ...

Trust me as the OEM CLUTCH is hard to beat ...

You have to relearn how to release the clutch ...

Have 111,819.6 miles on mine as of the last ride ...
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Gmaan03
Posted on Monday, August 27, 2012 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for the information guys. I did not think it was a problem but just wanted advice.
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Lakes
Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2012 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well i won't be useing Barnett, but will use Energy One as the suplier is out of Barnett. hope the energy one are ok. i'm going to stay with the stock Diapram spring as the way i see it , it will have more surface area so require less spring pressure not more spring pressure. this is a stock motor other than SE manifold & Woods CV43.5 carb so can't see it needing more clutch. i've got the new primary adjuster ( thanks for advice from Buelistic ) will fit it at my friends tomorrow.
also i'm going to put Auto Trans fluid Type F into gear box primary.
will let you know what it all works out like.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's a new one for me, I don't know that I've ever read about auto tranny fluid going into a Buell primary.

HD Formula+ is recommended for XB's by EB himself so that's a good fluid, I'll be putting it in when I finish fiddling with my clutch/tranny.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I really liked my Energy One clutch.
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Lakes
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 07:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, that was an experience. when we got into the primary, we could see what was causing the clutch noise, the clutch hub bearing had spun in the hub & the clutch hub had movement. the bearing supply was closed as was saturday afternoon. but a HD dealer was open all day & had some bearings in stock @ twice the price the bearing service sell them for. also the primary chain looks like it will need changing soon. we finished the job & clutch works perfect & the gear box shifts better than it did. the ATF Type F is recomended by energy one they don't recomend useing synthetic oil as think the clutch will slip. all i know is Auto Trans have gears and this oil is made for gears it's about 15W & the clutch works better now than b4 & the gearbox shifts the best it has ever shifted since i've owned the bike. it had formula+ in it b4. i'll change the oil regularly. i'm going very easy on the clutch till the plates bed in ( about 150 mile )
i'm happy.
forgot to mention the grenade plate was almost ready to go, i would say i would not have got far b4 it failed as all the rivits were loose it had movement, just lucky we got in there when we did.

(Message edited by lakes on September 01, 2012)
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 07:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Never tried ATF Type F in a HD or Buell,but have and still use it in my "dirt track" 2 stroke bikes.Like Lake said, they shift better and the clutches don't slip(stock and Barnett)
Switched to ATF back in the late seventies and not seen any abnormal gear wear or chain wear in all those years.Motor oil would tend to foam up in transmissions at high speed and cause missed shifts,ATF didn't.Motor oil has gotten a lot better since then,so don't know if ATF still has that advantage.
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Lakes
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats good Charlie, i've used the ATF Type F in the primary on my twin cam dyna from new & have 90,000 up original primary chain. i change it regularly. i drag race the Dyna or i did but been too busy with sorting the Buell out & enjoying riding the Buell. to have time to fix the dyna ( crank possition sensor has failed on it )
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Lake that's good to know.....the only thing that concerns me with HD and Buell is if the crank seal starts going I'm not sure I want ATF in my motor.
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Outdoors
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2012 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crank seal issues are what convinced me to run Amsoil in both my engine and primary. Previously ran hd syn in the motor and sport trans in the box. Amsoil support for EB racing was also a motivation for me. I have been very pleased with the Amsoil so far.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My understanding on that is that since the primary is not pressurized, if you develop a main seal leak it will be oil pushing through from the engine mixing with the other fluid, whatever that is running in the primary.
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Lakes
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 03:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've ownened harleys since late 70's & yet to have a crank seal fail, not saying it won't happen . but like LB said it would go from motor to primary as crank case pressure. i got redline 20w 60w in the motor it's a good oil, i've looked in my twin cam a few times to see how well it works.i'm sure there is lots of other good oils too.
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always thought there was pressure and vacuum, depending on which stroke.Not saying one's wrong and one's right, just never was comfortable with the idea.
I also use Amsoil in the primary,but still hang with my Mobil One in the engine. Still a lot easier to pick up a qt. of Mobil One at Advance.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lakes, now would be a good time to advise you that the crank seals seem to go out on these motors more often than others, maybe it only appears that way because we hear/read about guys primaries being full and blowing oil out the breather from time to time.

There is an updated seal that holds up better, so if yours goes you can put an upgraded part.

My bike is also a 2000 model year, I'm considering changing it while I have my primary apart but don't really want to mess with it if it's not broken. I have enough to fix around my place as it is.
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Lakes
Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2012 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Might be riding conditions, my motor does not see more than 4,500 rev at the most on the street here in Australia. long story to explaine why that is.
with my twin cam i see 7,200rev every time i race, this is in speed traps not my shift point. an old shovel i had came from factory useing same oil primary & engine gear box was separate. you sure know when the primary is pressureised as they leak from everywhere if not a perfect seal. but anything is possible.
LB thanks for the info will get an update seal to keep if needed.
also were can i get a new primary chain?
as would have liked to have changed that while i was in there & will next time.

(Message edited by lakes on September 02, 2012)
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lakes,
There is a reason they changed the design of the crank seal from a single lip to a double lip seal.
They WILL fail. I've changed many of them over the years, most failing, some about to fail and some because I was already in there.
The compound used on some of the 1999 - 2000 seals gets very hard over time. So bad that the literately split apart when you remove them.
Cheap seal and cheap insurance.

Brad
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Lakes
Posted on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Brad will get a double lip seal & change it.
do you have the part number?
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Rick_a
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2012 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock clutch with the spring plate removed is very durable. Mine has endured many hard 4-5k rpm launches. It can chirp at times and the engagement range is shortened, but that's a small price to pay.

My crank seal had a very early death. It looked cooked and brittle. You'll know when your primary oil level goes up on its own.
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