| Author | Message | ||
     Deanald2pt0 |
Im attempting to replace the stator. How do I get the main shaft nut off? I realize it is a left handed, but we can not get the nut to budge. | ||
| Jim2 |
Looking at my M2 FSM you've got it backwards!!! The "engine sprocket nut" is the one that is over the stator and it is standard right-handed threads. The "main shaft nut" is the one that is over the clutch hub and that is the one that is left-handed thread. | ||
| Deanald2pt0 |
Ok, let me clarify, I have already removed the engine sprocket nut. I'm having trouble removing the nut over the clutch hub. Both have to come off in order to remove the primary and get to the stator. | ||
| Someday |
That's odd because the stator nut is torqued to a much higher value than the clutch hub nut. To remove the hub nut you use the "locking link" between the stator teeth and the clutch hub teeth to stop them from turning and you should be able to break the nut loose. Maybe someone used a lot of red Loctite on that nut but you still should be able to break it loose with a breaker bar. It is a left hand thread. | ||
| Buellistic |
RED loctite on the motor sprocket, BIG MISTAKE !!! (Message edited by buellistic on August 18, 2012) | ||
| Sfmc_x1 |
You need: A air impact gun. The correct sized sockets. The locking link. A factory service manual. After you've done your repair and ready for reassembly you need: A torque wrench. You don't want that engine sprocket nut backing it's self off. Loctite...? Your on your own. | ||
| Buellistic |
You need a long breaker bar, NOT AN "IMPACT WRENCH" !!! Two thing you do not need in your tool box is an IMPACT WRENCH and HARLEY-DAVIDSON HAMMER !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
I use a (weak) electric impact wrench for disassembly. Air guns can crack your case, especially if you forget to set it for left-hand threads. The locking plate can be duplicated by any machinist who has seen a picture of it. Use a torque wrench to put it back together. | ||
| Buellistic |
LOWE'S and HOME DEPOT have them in stock, they are called a DOOR HINGE(large) !!! A "HAMMER" or "IMPACT WRENCH" in the hands of a technician is DANGEROUS beyond imagination !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
You need to grip more than one tooth of each immobilized part with the locking plate or the torque applied to the nut converts to a force separating the two shafts. A door hinge, in my humble opinion, will not do any better job than wedging two big screwdriver handles between the parts to be immobilized. It is not necessary for every hammer blow to be of maximum force; there are times when technicians need to smack things that are stuck together. When using a power tool to break torque, use bursts of one or two seconds duration to limit damage to bearings, seals, and cases. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Don't know about you, but every rotor (for the stator) that I've ever worked with has "NO SHARP BLOWS" engraved in it. That tells me, no hammer. No impact. Just use a breaker bar and leverage. Unless, of course, you *want* your rotor magnets to come loose... | ||
| Buellistic |
RatBUELL: You get an AT-AH-BOY rather that an AH-SHITTE !!! At least you are LISTENING and LEARNING !!! | ||
| Harleyelf |
We are talking about the clutch nut, right? The magnets are under the other side of the primary chain. I'd rather replace a rotor than a clutch basket with teeth stripped by a one-tooth holding jig and a big breaker bar. Rat, it is true that the magnets can be loosened by shock transmitted through the chain. This is why a proper holding jig is important. | ||
| Oldog |
I dont know what the deal is with the locking bar, I have had all of that apart, with out an impact tool, the bar did not mark any thing and AFAIK is the recommended tool for the job... | ||
| Deanald2pt0 |
We got the nut off. Yes the nut on the clutch side was the one causing all the problems. Everything is back together and appears to be working properly. It kind of put a damper on my MotoGP weekend. But I managed to get by with the bike for the weekend. Guess it's time to start looking into a back up bike.  |
