| Author | Message | ||
     Serialk |
okay. what do you guys run in your primary? Been searching for the old sport trans fluid but it is long obsolete. Need some good stuff for the clutch and trans...and no im not putting that syn3 shite in there... | ||
| Jramsey |
Formula Plus is the replacement for Sport-Trans fluid. | ||
| Lakes |
a guy i know who raced old tube frame Buells 10 years back ( road raced ) used to ride interstate to race then ride home. he told me he has always used Penrite HPR 40 in his primary as he thinks the HD oil too thin for the gearbox said this oil was much better for the gearbox & said clutch worked fine. | ||
| Someday |
Amsoil 20W-50 in both engine and primary. | ||
| Buellistic |
Use H-D SYN3 20W50 in transmission because if the crank shaft sprocket seal goes bad just what do you think will move back and forth through thru the bad seal !!! | ||
| 01x1buell |
i use the same oil in both holes made for a wet clutch. | ||
| Dano1z |
I use Mobil 1 V-twin 20w50 in both the primary and the trans and it shifts smooth and runs cooler, zero problems in the first 5000 miles. Expensive tho, $10 a quart, but your gonna pay for good oil | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Amsoil 20-w50 in both | ||
| Serialk |
I agree with The guy Lakes is talking about. Thick gear type oil that is good with clutches... not thin oil for clutches that kinda lubricates the gearbox.. I know formula + replaced the sport trans but the sport trans was a thicker oil if you remember. Anyone use any heavy gear type oil in the primary that is clutch friendly? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I generally don't mess around with the tranny. I use the formula + stuff from H-D. It's a specific/strange area to lube. You have a clutch which can't be made too slippery, a geartrain and chain that need it to be as slippery as possible, and a bundle of magnet wire that is insulated by something that can't be exposed to certain solvents/chemicals. Add all this fun stuff up and apply heat! I gave up trying to second guess the engineers in H-D and just buy what they tell me to buy. | ||
| Gixxer86g |
I run Formula +. I deliberated for a long time on what to run, and it was Al from American Sport Bike's opinion that swayed me. | ||
| Buellistic |
Any body ever try DEXRON VI in their transmission ??? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is dextron thick enough? All the automotive tranny stuff I have ever seen was kinda thin. | ||
| Buellistic |
When "i" put my BLAST back together that is what will go in the transmission, so you'll will be second to know how it works ... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
LOL science in action! | ||
| Jim2 |
Shell Rotella-T 15W40 works very well. | ||
| Jayvee |
This question usually generates more diverse replies, seems like lot of choices. Despite the logic of Buellistic's 'bad seal' scenario, I agree with Natexlh1000 about it seems like a specialized oil might be the way to go, and after reading big Al's explanation, I am using Formula +. It cracks me up, how often we get to say "in both holes"... | ||
| Scntekir |
I run Royal Purple GL5 75W90 with a standard Barnett clutch set up (not the extra plate) in my 98 S1W and have had no issues at all. The viscosity (thickness) of Gear Lube and Motor Oil are rated differently. 75W90 gear lube is roughly the same viscosity as 20W50 motor oil. My understanding is the gear lube has a higher molly content therefore better suited for the primary/tranny of a sporty motor. I have found everybody has a different interpretation of their results, but the RP GL5 75W90 has worked very well for me over the years with no clutch or stator issues. Of course always check the facts, then make a decision Good Luck! | ||
| Buellistic |
All that "i" can say is as soon as "i" could the transmission LUBE that came from the factory came out and H-D dyno 20W50 went in ... At 60k "i" went to H-D SYN3 20W50 in the transmission and now have 111,671.35 miles as of the last ride ... | ||
| Blake |
Gear oil isn't any "heavier" (more viscous) than 20W50 engine oil. The two SAE grading scales are unrelated and intentionally different purely to avoid potential confusion among the two types of lubricants. Conventional gearcase oil includes additives that cause harmful deposits in the combustion chamber. 75w90 gear oil is about the same viscosity as 10W40 engine oil. I do prefer tranny specific lube though. The formula plus seems like good stuff. So is Amsoil and Mobil 1. | ||
| Psych00 |
Klotz 80w/90 synthetic gear & chain case lube for sportsters. | ||
| Kalali |
Only use HD specific Tranny fluid. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Jhuppdog ~ I took your advice and put Amsoil 20-50 (automotive) in my primary today. dino for the engine. just got back from an evening ride, the barnett feels fine. | ||
| Knwyman |
I used Mobil 1 75/90 (is that right?)in my 99M2 for around 25000 miles. Not long after I sold it, the stator went. Don't know if it had anything to do with that particular oil or not but... A few weeks ago I was into the primary to fix a shifting problem. I believe what had been in there was whatever an HD dealer would put in. I buttoned it back up & put Mobil 1 75/90 in there. It was shifting awesome! My stator fried 2 weeks later... Don 't know if it was a coincidence but isn't there something about that oil that doesn't get along well with copper? That said, the stator winding is insulated... In anycase, I talked to the guy who bought my old M2 & the failure was the same -double the resistance of the coil but still putting out the proper amount of AC voltage. | ||
| Lakes |
Well i know what i posted, but thats what the guy told me he runs & he also raced his Buell & road to race. but i only just got my used Buell M2 & have no experience at all. i was given a sealed bottle of the old HD sports trans oil that was used b4 the formula+. & my other friend who gave it too me said this is the best. so i just serviced my bike and put the old style HD oil in primary & gearbox. in my 01 Dyna i use Redline Heavy Shock proof in gear box & ATF Type F in primary. i have ridden the bike 90,000 had it from new, have ran 11.27 quarter mile @ 121.5mph trap speed & it shifts beautifully the stock alternator lasted 80,000 b4 falling apart still on stock primary chain so the combination has worked, also i have been into the stock 5 speed all looks like new so the redline shock proof oil works. just i know it would not be the best to use in primary . can someone direct me to the artical Big Al wrote so i can read & learn. thanks | ||
| Gixxer86g |
knwyman, gear oil is a big no-no in the primary. The additives kill, guess what........stators! | ||
| Steveford |
Mobil 1 15/50 everywhere, no issues in in over 100,000 miles (variety of Buells). I will do everything possible not to give HarLee any money unless there's no other way around it. Don't use Mobil Gear Oil, it will eat the stator as Gixxer86g stated. | ||
| Nukeblue |
+3 (i think) gear oil is bad. it fried my x1 stator. left some weird yellow colored film when it was all done doin it's business too. pain in the a to clean out edit... used formula + after that, even racing. works great (Message edited by nuke-blue on July 15, 2012) | ||
| Chuck |
I was using valvoline fully synthetic 75w90 - and some insulation flaked off the stator wires and shorted out inside the case, causing the charging system to quit - but at first I didn't know exactly what the problem was; and so I was following all the procedures in the service manual - when I got to the part where I found that I had continuity between the stator connector and chassis ground, I should have stopped; but instead I decided to finish the last test in the manual, which was to measure the AC voltage at the connector but with no regulator attached - that was a big mistake - without a regulator pulling the voltage down the stator puts out 50 plus volts and because I had a bad wire, it arc-ed inside the primary and ignited the oil vapors and caused a great noise and much smoke as the explosion blew out my countershaft seal - so anyway - I'm thinking I might have used the wrong oil - darn it ! | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" have been using the correct lubricant in my transmission all these years(1997 S3T) and 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride and still using the "ORIGINAL" OEM STATOR and VOLTAGE REGULATOR, what am "i" doing wrong ??? The primary chain is adjusted correctly and the battery is not used until the last electron is used out of it !!! |
