| Author | Message | ||
     S1owner |
Ok so i know they suck to bleed but i can not get it to work. It apears like it is done but push on the peddle three four times and the caliper is locked shut. What gives | ||
| Dwrecked |
Idk if this your case but I've had that happen on I few cars I've worked on and 9 out of 10 it was a small crimp in the brake line. Hope that helps. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
On my X1, the paint on the frame got chewed up near the area surrounding the footpeg's pivot area. This was taking up slack and dragging on the shifter and brake pedals. I remedied it by scraping the paint off where the pivot washers/bushings go. Make sure your pedal goes all the way back up or the juice stays trapped in the line+caliper. | ||
| Scntekir |
Please explain a little more, caliper locked shut? | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yeah, I am completely lost as to what's happening. Explain your procedure and what isn't working properly. | ||
| S1owner |
Ok so as you press on the brake it builds pressure but when you release the pistons stay then next time you press same thing till they are tight to tge caliper its like the fluid is moving only one way | ||
| Imaposer2 |
If you crack open the bleed nipple to relieve pressure, does it free the wheel? Need to determine if it's a hydraulic lock or a mechanical thing... Where you doing the brake bleed as just a fluid change or where you doing other work to the brakes? | ||
| S1owner |
Crack the bleeder it releases rebuilt the bike reinstalled the brakes | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Sounds like an issue with the master cylinder piston not retracting far enough to allow the pressure to equalize once you release the pedal. It may be time for a master cylinder rebuild, but before you do, double check all of your pedal to master cylinder actuation adjustment to make sure the piston is free to return. I'm also assuming that you've already took your rear caliper apart and cleaned, polished and lubed the slider pins and that it is free to move as required. A binding caliper can also create issues similar to yours. Cover all the basics of the brake system and you'll find the problem. Start simple and cheap and progress from there; adjust, disassemble, clean and lube, rebuild. If you have a mighty-vac you an also try bleeding in reverse by pushing fluid from the caliper back through the system to the mastercylinder, pulling excess off the reservoir with a syringe as required. It could have a little debris in the system somewhere. If so, a good flush in both directions could solve the issue. Good luck. | ||
| S1owner |
I will take your advise Poser and check it all systematically as it is simple design. | ||
| Ratbuell |
another thing to check is the actual piston in the caliper. Depending on mileage and condition, the piston can have gank on it, keeping it from sliding back into the caliper (retracting) when you release the pedal. Remove the piston (be careful of the seals!) and clean it with a wire wheel or emery cloth. Don't remove material, just corrosion. Lube it with brake fluid and reassemble. |
