| Author | Message | ||
     Tony302 |
Ok so when I press down on the rest brake lever the breaks stays stuck and the lever does not return..can I clean the rear master with regular brake cleaner or is their something else I need to use on it, is their no hope for it just got to get another one?? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
More likely that the caliper itself is binding. However, whether it's the caliper, or the master cylinder, you can source rebuild kits for either or both from American Sport Bike or another Buell dealer. They are pretty easy to work on. I did both on my M2 last winter. | ||
| Jim2 |
You should clean brake part internals with Isopropyl Alcohol (at least DOT4 systems, can't speak for others). When I got my M2 it was doing the same thing. My rear master cylinder was completely gunked up inside. I think you may have a chance of cleaning it out and being ok but there was considerable corrosion on my internal master cylinder parts. I bought the rebuild kit from American Sport Bike to take care of that problem. I also replaced the brake light switch while I was at it but mine was not working. Does your rear brake light work? | ||
| Tony302 |
thnks goin to order a rebuild kit for the rear master and hopefully got a caliper on its way soon...now i need to see if someone has a spare carb they like ot get rid off as i put a hole on mine just need a bare one evrything else i can put on from mine if you guys know let me know please | ||
| Tony302 |
Got everything in.rebuilt the rear master Put in a used in great condition rear caliper.I got the system working I even raised the caliper up and pumped it at first, got the caliper to close and open,put everything back i pumped the pedal a few times and open up the needle on the caliper and no air was coming out so I went test drove it and it seems like i do mot get enough clamping power to the rear to make the bike stop instantly i even try to lock it it up but nothing just minimal pressure...did I missed something or is their another step in bleeding this system or still air in the system?? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
They are engineered to not be very powerful, encouraging use of the strong front brake. You could try back bleeding, push fluid through the caliper bleed nipple into the reservoir with a tube attached to a large syringe (easy to get from a farm goods store). If you still don't get any bubbles or improved results it's probably just your system. The switch tends to hold air bubbles though, just due to the design, requiring you to bleed it by raising the caliper up as you did. Try a different pad compound and a braided line for slight improvement in power, does give better feel too. I took a bunch of pictures this spring or winter when I did mine. I'll find that thread and post a link for you. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Here it is, maybe there's something in here of use to you: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/646904.html | ||
| Tony302 |
Ok so their not designed to generate a whole lot of stopping power,but if i slammed them hard should it lock up the rear tire?? I think you right I could use a new line since it was gummed up..i will try raising the caliper again,get a buddy of mine to pump the brakes and try pushing fluid thru the bleeder on the caliper...hey on your thread that you showed me the link to you said you had the front forks rebuilt did you do that on your own?? If so do you have a link on how to do it? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I had to stand on the brake pedal to lock up the rear when I took a rider course on it with only 1200 miles on the bike. They just aren't that strong. A friend of mine from the MSF instructor course did the rebuild for me. There is at least one tutorial on here though, I think Oldog did one for us a few years ago on his X1 forks. M2's with traditional forks is probably easier than the inverted one's I've got on my M2. | ||
| Tony302 |
Well in that case perhaps my rear brakes are fine but when press on them they do not seem to slow the bike down or jerk you forward a little but they do clamp just not enough..i will try your method with the syringe first then then raising the caliper again if not then maybe a braided line or just ride like it is now...thanks for the info going to call around for priced on the rebuild of the forks | ||
| Littlebuggles |
One more quick thought, with the care you put into bleeding the system properly I assume you took the time to clean the pads and rotor with brake parts cleaner before you put it all back together? I like the Lyndall gold pads on my bike they were a great addition when I put them on the front, feel was significant on the back but improved with them there too. They don't leave the residue build up that leads to a feeling like a warped rotor that the stock compound does. And switching pads will scrub off that sort of residue if there is any on the front or rear rotor as well. You may not have that issue at all if you are running the stock for pre-99 model year rotor as it is iron, not stainless steel. | ||
| Tony302 |
I'll try another set of pads,i did clean it very well, I'll try re-bleeding.if still the same then I'll install the ones you said plus a new line. | ||
| Buellistic |
Clean the rotor and pads with BRAKE CLEANER ... When the PADS DRY, rub the pads on your CONCRETE DRIVE WAY to BREAK THE GLAZE on the PADS ... |
