| Author | Message | ||
     Scow1 |
I have been having issues with my front caliper. I recently just rebuilt my front caliper with american sport bikes rebuild kit. Cleaned everything real well and blew it out with compressed air. Finished rebuild and put it all back together. When trying to bleed the brakes I have always had an issue getting them bleed down and still had an issue after the build. I reverse bled the caliper and got them working. What I noticed is that the top piston starts moving out, the middle one kind of moves, and the small bottom piston doesnt move at all. I grabs the rotor well but when driving i get the rubbing sound of the brakes rubbing the rotor, until i hit the brakes and the sound stops. Its pretty annoying and trying to figure out what I can do to get these front brakes/caliper to work properly. When I bought the bike it had front brake issues with a limp level. I had to reverse bleed it to get them primed up. | ||
| Buellistic |
Pressure to push the caliper pistons comes from the master cylinder, provided you have all the air out of the system ... Leave the master cylinder cover of over night ... Next day put the master cylinder cover on and see if the system pumps up ... | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Another option to just leaving the cover off is to tack the cover off and tie the lever down with a zip tie overnight so the bubbles can float on up. When I rebuilt mine last Fall I had to pull the master cyl assy off and play with it, squeezing it at different angles to get all the air to work its way out. It was a pain and took more patience than I had anticipated. Eventually the bubbles came out past the relief valve and I was able to get a good bleed of the system done. It's fiddly, so be prepared to fiddle a lot to make it work. | ||
| Scow1 |
Could my master cyl need a rebuild? I will try the cover off and zip tied lever first. | ||
| Buellistic |
THE MYSTERY SECRET TO A TROUBLE FREE BRAKE SYSTEM IS TO CHANGE THE MASTER CYLINDER FLUID ONCE A YEAR AND WIPE OUT MASTER CYLINDER WITH A CLEAN PIECE OF A OLD WHITE T-SHIRT ... THIS APPLIES TO CARS ALSO !!! HAVE PROVED THIS WORKS AS OF THE LAST RIDE MY BRAKE SYSTEMS HAVE 111,354.8 MILES ON THEM(FRONT AND REAR) !!! | ||
| Firstbuell |
hey guys, many moons ago, a poster noted that tuber F caliper is also an OEM Kawasaki part [early '90s 600?], mebbe $100 in some major aftermarket supplier's catalog anyone have the specifics? also, Buellistic, would you please forward to me the adjustable replacement levers doc which you created? thx | ||
| Scow1 |
The zip tie method seemed to work a little. Still get a bit of rotor rub but not as bad. Ill re-bleed the brakes and zip tie it off again. | ||
| Hootowl |
The pads will always drag on the rotor a little. When you apply the brakes, the pads are mashed into the rotor. When you let off, there is nothing that retracts them. They just sit there. I wouldn't get too worked up over a little rub. | ||
| Buellistic |
If put NAPA(CRC)Disc Brake Quiet PN 091444 on the PADS/PISTION so when the pistons pull back into the caliper the pads come with them !!! Less drag, more TORQUE/HP, better gas mileage, and pads/rotor last longer !!! | ||
| Firstbuell |
hey Lafayette, thx for the lever docs - speedy! do you happen to remember about the F caliper being a readliy available, OEM part for some UJM? | ||
| Buellistic |
Check with www.AmericanSportBike.com ... If AL can not help you then try the METRIC DEALERS ... Since nothing much is made in AMERICA anymore a lot of common parts retro fit to many bikes !!! Start with KAWASAKI ... The METRIC PARTS PEOPLE, IMHO smarter in my area than the HARLEY-DAVIDSON STEALERSHIP ones ... Only know one in my area and he rides a BUELL, so that a lone makes him smarter !!! |
