| Author | Message | ||
     Coxster |
I've ridden a hundred miles in the last week, all stoplight to stoplight and not noticed anything unusual. Today I added a 5'9" 150# passenger and heard an odd noise coming from below me. It was definitely speed dependent, but not tach dependent. My belt seems pretty tight. Does the rear geometry put more tension on the belt when the shock is compressed by two riders vs. one? Thanks | ||
| Oldog |
Coxter: depending on belt tension and your combined weight / shock setting Yes/No as the swing arm moves thru its arc of travel from full down to full up the belt will get tighter up till the axle tranny and swingarm are in line as the arm continues UP the belt will start to slack again OH Layfayette !!!?! Buellistic !!! | ||
| Buellistic |
DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for your copy ... | ||
| Tbolt98 |
Do you notice it when you hit bumps? The belt on my S3 will rub on the frame and screech when i hit bumps with a passenger! Although the first owner installed a lowering bracket that i've been meaning to swap out. | ||
| Coxster |
OK guys for the life of me, I can't find any obvious preload adjustment. I know the bike has had all four recalls done at the local dealership where it was purchased new Any hints? Thanks - Coxster | ||
| Jim2 |
The pre-load for the rear shock is adjusted by breaking the giant nut at the back of the shock loose (takes a really big wrench). Then you turn the entire shock can in the up direction to increase pre-load (the visible threads showing will show less and less as you increase the preload) and in the down direction to decrease pre-load (more threads will show) as viewed from the right side of the bike. I bought a spanner attachment at my local cyclegear that you put on the end of a regular socket ratchet handle. The spanner has a curve and a small hook that goes into the holes in the shock cannister. It makes turning the whole shock very easy. Don't just stick a screw-driver in the hole unless you don't mind the dent that you may put into your canister. Also make sure you clean the fine threads with a stiff brush and lightly smear a thin coat of grease on the threads before you turn the cannister. When you increase the pre-load you should also increase the damping slightly and when you decrease pre-load you should also decrease the damping slightly. | ||
| Akbuell |
Another option for adjusting preload is one of those strap wrenches with a rubber strap that you get at the grocery store, the ones meant to help loosen screw-on jar lids. Not expensive, works well, non-marring, ect. | ||
| Coxster |
I think I figured something out. My shock has a cover over the rear, held on with 'hose clamps' basically, like this ebay special http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Buell-S3-S3T-Rear-Sho ck-Absorber-/330566502959 ( minus the external resivoir ) I'll try to take it off later tonite. Thanks everyone for your input | ||
| Hootowl |
I would not recommend removing the reinforcement on that shock. | ||
| Jim2 |
That means that you have the recall done but when they first did the recall they just reinforced the original shock with the clam-shell cover instead of giving the bike a whole new different shock. I'm not sure if the shock you have has an adjustable pre-load. You can search BadWeb and find out about that shock. Unfortunately that means that your recall is done and your'll never get the new shock from HD. | ||
| Coxster |
I wish I had read Hootowl's post just a little earlier. I read the warning on the shock ( do not remove if leaking ) with no leaks I tried to take off the 'shock protection' cover, and the shock slid out about 1/2". I could not get the rear hoseclamp loose, and gave up for the night. The shock is about 16.5" unloaded ctr-ctr, but still showing no leaks. (Message edited by coxster on May 18, 2012) (Message edited by coxster on May 18, 2012) | ||
| Coxster |
Went to the local dealership today, they printed a record of when the replaced the shock with new by recall. I wonder if this is a replacement of the replacement. Pic of the shock, after the big slip  | ||
| Rex |
My belt on my S2 has starting sqeaking. Nothing stops it. | ||
| Buellistic |
Clean the belt and put some belt lube on it ... DRIVE BELT Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Essmjay |
Clean it yes, belt lube it no. It's not a vee belt, which is what belt lubes are designed for. They use a sticky compound which will suck up dirt like a magnet, thus decreasing the life of your belt. Just clean it with soapy water and make sure your wheel is aligned correctly. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I think he means that belt dressing stuff that H-D dealerships have. | ||
| Essmjay |
Doesn't matter who sells it, cog tooth belts don't need lubricant. Do you lube the timing belt on your car? Harley doesn't care if you shorten the life of your belt, especially on a big twin, big bucks for them changing out one of those. Show me a single belt manufacturer who recommends lubricating their toothed belts. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Well I didn't suggest it was smart to do.  | ||
| Essmjay |
That's probably why I tried it once. Never again.  |
