| Author | Message | ||
     Foximus |
So I spent today rebuilding my race motor for my jetski... finished up around 5... then I spent about an hour painting a sign for the front of my shop.... After I was finished I realized I was quite bored. So I pulled my buell in ( I have not worked on it in a matter of months, a few problems have accumulated) And got to work. Tore down the Primary. I had broken my shift lever the last time I had gone for a ride, got stuck in 5th gear. Burnt the clutch up coming home. Also, some of you may remember I had a big problem recently on my 38amp 3phase charging system being dead. Couldn't figure out why I was "wasting" voltage regulators. Well it was the stator. Tapped out on the rotor and fried a phase. So while I had all that down, I decided to drop the transmission. Took that apart and polished all the shafts, forks and shift drum, as well as beveled all the shift channels. Despite being rather hard stainless steel, I was rather surprised by how well it polished with only 2 steps of compound, near mirror finish. Now this thing Clicks and Clacks almost like a japanese bike. Tomorrow the Cam cover is coming off to get shaved and polished. A new non-leaking shock is getting put on, while mine gets sent off to be rebuilt/revalved, cutting/flipping the shock bracket to gain 1" rear ride height... My new kevlar clutches should be here tuesday, and I just ordered a new 38 amp stator. Oh Boy. This is what happens after leaving my bike sit for 4 months.    | ||
| Gusm2 |
Who´s a busy boy then ? | ||
| Someday |
While you're in there get rid of the spring-plate in the clutch stack. It really helped the shifting on my S3T, plus it's one less thing to give you problems. | ||
| Foximus |
Oh I got rid of the spring clutch plate a long time ago... lol. Right now I'm debating if I should cut or drill an oil port for the final output gear. I also ordered a stronger diaphragm spring as well... I'm trying to figure out if there is a relatively easy to dissasemble the clutch basket, so I can refinish the last clutch surface, as it is glazed as well... Anyone know? Seems to be just one big C clip, but my C clip pliars aren't large enough., and my big pair are too big. (Message edited by foximus on March 25, 2012) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
You'll need a clutch spring compressor and a snap ring pliers. There are a bunch of threads on the compressor, pretty easy to make one really. Brad | ||
| Foximus |
LoL. Well I obviously have a clutch spring compressor since I have the clutch apart. What I'm trying to figure out is to seperate the inner from outter assemblies so I can re-surface the inner basket face. | ||
| Foximus |
Nevermind. Got the awkwardly sized C clip off. The innerbasket is press fit into the bearing. Don't feel like brining out my shop press.... | ||
| Foximus |
Tonight was the obnoxious work of cutting up that Damn Cam cover. I forgot exactly how many reinforment ribs there were on the back side. Damnit it took forever to cut it off and smooth them all down. Unfortunately the way my hi-4 ignition is wired it makes it a total pain in the ass to disconnect it, so I couldnt get the cover removed from the bike to polish it at the bench. I'm sure its about a lbs... lol   Then hung up the bike, and yanked of the rear shock and shock bracket. Did a few measurements, cut it in half, flipped the tip. Welded it back. This gives me an extra 1 1/4" ride height in the rear. Tomorrow sandblasting and powdercoating, as well as putting on a new non-leaking shock. So who's got a nice stainless header for me?? =D      | ||
| Ltbuell |
..now you need to gussy up the front pulley(polish or powder coat it).That would enhance the look.Like what you've done so far(yeah,that shock looks illin').Will be waiting to see when its all done.Would love to put a set of XB rims/front forks on my '00 X-1 but do not have the sheckels to do that.Oh well. | ||
| Foximus |
I had it all black, and polished the raised ring originally. However that tended to rust quick quick as I didn't realize it was cast iron. Wonder why no body makes an aluminum front sprocket for a moderate price? Thanks man. | ||
| Koz5150 |
1. I had an aluminum 26 tooth front sprocket and after about 8,000 the inner splines shredded. I loved the 26 tooth sprocket and will be replacing it with a steel version. It was about $165 made by Baker I believe. I have seen a number of covers that look ok. 2. I would like to see the ride hight change with that bracket. | ||
| Foximus |
Stock is 29 splines correct? I'm not sure I would enjoy a 26 spline... that just seems way to intense for limiting highway travel. No way without the Baker 6 speed... which would double the cost of the bike... However after looking at the Baker website, I think I'm going to pull my front pulley and throw it in the lathe. I'd like to see how much weight I can get off it, Since I'm already in the weight saving mode. | ||
| Foximus |
The powdercoating on the bracket makes it look real clean. The drive is slanted slightly down, so it still seems like the tip of the tail is lower than the tank, but I have a feeling they are about even. Before I took it down, the tip of the tail sat at 36" from the ground standing straight up. I just measured when I took these pictures, and the tip of the tail is now 37.4" off the ground standing up. Hopefully it will "cure" the feeling of sitting under the tank a bit. I still have to put on my HSi tail light, losing that trailer light of a tail light, and then I'm going to trim up the "fairing" for a bit of a sleeker, less chunky look. I also LOVE LOVE LOVE the trimmed cam cover. I've been wanting to do it forever, but really needed an excuse to get into it. I love how it shows the oil lines, and really exposes the shock, and accentuates my idler pulley.. Much more Machinistic and home built looking now. I just wish the exhaust wasn't going to cover it right back up again. lol  [img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/522098_10101054516427472_5115131_61667901_1703449800_n.jpg[/img] (Message edited by foximus on March 26, 2012) | ||
| Firemanjim |
29 was on the S-2's and some early S-3's. Most of the others came with a 27 front so a 26 is not a big change. | ||
| Rjn |
nice looking bike. nice to see the cut down cam cover, cut mine last winter with a small iron hand saw. took forever to take the extra's off. but i think it's worth it, looking at the result. any more ideas for you bike? | ||
| Foximus |
Thanks. I have a ducati single sided swing arm I've been waiting about a year to put on. It got delayed when I started my diesel camino project.  | ||
| S1owner |
Wow you have a vast amount of skills! Love it really like the Deisel camino! Wondering about your belt tension pully do you have details on it not a stock item I would like to do that to mine | ||
| Foximus |
Haha... well... I guess I just tinker alot. The camino has a 1994 12 valve cummins turbo diesel in it. 5.9 liters, auto tranny. Its a 1975. As for the idler pulley... that was kinda a pain in the ass creation for such little effect. It does always keep the belt at perfect tension, but really I just wanted it for aesthetics. Its mostly just an XB pulley that I cut the legs from, then added .75" of length, then welded the legs back on. Instead of using the existing bolt holes that go transverse, I machined new ones that go vertically, and tapped into the motor mount block. Then I had to do lots of carving on the actual fork body itself to allow enough room for the belt to pass through the legs. Overall.... lots of work, and lots of room for error.     (and that actually is real smoke.... no photoshop... lol. Just lots of lighting at night) | ||
| Zenbiker |
Way Cool!! | ||
| V74 |
i am enjoying this thread,what did you save weight wise trimming the cam cover? I drilled and and used a grinder on my front pulley and shaved off 170g from it,i doubt you could shave much more off. | ||
| Loki |
Just did the same thing with my spare front shock mount. 'cept mine is to make room for the 17" AST shock. | ||
| Foximus |
I don't actually know how much weight I saved. Perhaps a tad over a lbs. But since its rather low on the bike, and non spinning, its really not that much. I saved all the pieces, so I could weigh it, but I'm sure a lot a few more ounces came off after the rough cuts when I started grinding it smooth. I didn't leave any tabs or anything on it. I'll take the box of trimmings off and weigh them. I think with a lathe i could get way more than 170 grams off it. Baker's steel pulley cuts a full pound off theirs. Lathes and mills are highly efficient. ;] My clutch came in today, but my damn new stator doesnt arrive till saturday!!! gahhh. | ||
| Foximus |
As for tonight... not much done. Just tinkering. Cut a Timing cover from a sheet of Lexan I had laying around. Pretty neat. Love me a quality piece of Lexan. Crystal clear. Threw the freshly worked transmission back in.. Then I polished the rocker boxes and did a few modifications so they drain more oil, and the umbrella valves seal better. And then I slapped the headers back on... but I reaaaally hate these things. They rust overnight almost. Anyone have a spare stainless set? At least you can still see the cut cam cover well enough. And then I just thought this was a pretty cool photo the way everything looked. Just seems like you can tell its rumbling in the picture.    | ||
| Foximus |
More tonight. Since my bike has quite the case of the shakes, and I have a Heavy Duty tail light, I continuously had problems with the OEM cracking all over. I'd weld it and patch it at least once a week. There was barely any orriginal metal on it anymore. So I made this. A bit thicker, and a simpler design. Not tied together, so it will flex better, as well as transmitt less vibration to the light itself. Last year the plastic base cracked in half and fell off on the highway. (its a $350 tail light... ouch) Tomorrow I'll be cleaning up the rough edges and finishing it, then sinking some rubber mounts into it so its fully isolated from the frame. Deciding if I should powder coat textured black, or leave it with a clear coat.... Basically everything else is done, and now I'm just waiting for this damn 38 amp stator to be delivered.       | ||
| Fahren |
Well now that you have the cam cover cut down, if you are still bored, why not consider re-routing your oil lines from below the bike. You now have all sorts of room where the cam cover bits used to be. | ||
| Foximus |
Oh, New oil lines are definitely on the list of things to do, One of my oil lines are cracked at the oil pump I think... Ive never been able to tell where the leak is coming from as the cam cover was always in the way of seeing. Hhowever I really cant find a good place that sells oil line... I'd like to get it in red I think. But I may just go black again. | ||
| Foximus |
So the stator came today, and I spent a few hours last night putting on new oil lines and cleaning up all the seals. The bike Rides GREAT! Big difference. The thing that makes me the happiest is the shifter. Gah, its so slick and positive now. The taller rear also feels great. The thing is... The clutch slips 2nd - 5th gear above 3k rpm. Its a brand new Energy One kevlar clutch with their alledged 15% stronger spring. Now I've never ridden a clutch with new steel plates. Will new clutches slip until the clutches have bedded in? Of coarse I presoaked them, and yes the clutch is adjusted correctly. One thing I'm unsure of is the spring. Though it says its 15% stiffer, it seems to be much easier to pull than my previous spring... though I dont know what type of spring it is... i assume stock, though I dont know if thats stiffer than a standard sportster clutch spring. Its only identifying mark is a dot of blue paint.... Opinions? | ||
| Foximus |
Turns out I forgot to put the outside lock nut on the clutch adjuster. Clutch vibrated it self out. All good and grippy now. Though I'm still not sure the energy clutch is a true 15% more stiff than what I had. But god this bike is so much more fun now. The raised rear is Awesome! Love seeing the motor bare with the carved cam cover... My HID's started flickering tonight. Not sure if the vibration is causing the ballasts to prematurely fail. Tomorrow I'll glue a layer of foam onto it and strap it back on the frame. The one thing I would say about the raised rear is that it leaves the frame needing a bit more rake... and perhaps some extra trail too. The XB front already raised the bike a bit... but really I just need more rake. The bike really gets squirrely at high speeds, starts porpoising. I think I'm going to combat this with a bringing the rear wheel further out. I'm running the stock belt, and my idler pully makes me run the wheel all the way forward. What other belts could I run that would give me perhaps 4-6 teeth extra in length? Uly belt? Stock XB belt the same length or not? I forget.... | ||
| Davefl |
Stock XB is that same length as a Tube frame. Uly and SS had a longer belt.. not sure if they would work in your application. Maybe you can pick one up cheap. | ||
| Foximus |
just ran across this... http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/5 00161.html?1310335952 Assuming the stock one is 1.125" wide and 128 teeth, then 132 teeth would most likely be good to extend the wheel base 28mm.... Which should be just about the end of my adjustment range.... 1204-0047 132-tooth belt for 06 FXD, FXDWG (international), repl. OEM #40594-06 199.95 |
