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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through March 05, 2012 » Advice on what to look out for on 96 S1 « Previous Next »

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Mike13
Posted on Wednesday, February 08, 2012 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys. Was wondering if I could get some advice on what to look out for on a 96 S1 I'm about to go check out. It's got around 14000 miles on it and looks real good from the pics but I'm clueless when it comes to tubers. I know there are issues with rear shocks and front engine mounts and thats about the extent of my knowledge on the matter. Any one care to clue me in?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it runs and doesn't knock too badly when its running, get it.

They're awesome bikes, they're hard to find, and anything else can be fixed easily enough.

If it has a shop manual, make sure to get that with the bike. If not, get one as soon as you get it home.
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Buellfighter
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like Ratbuell said, if the engine is okay then get it! Unless the rear shock has been rebuilt recently...it will probably need to. If the front motor mount isn't broken....don't touch it! I have a '96 S1 and been riding it for 10 years now!
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Mike13
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys!
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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a link on here for the manual! I bought mine a little over a year ago and absolutly love it. Things i have figured out- call the dealer and they can run the vin to find out if all the warranty recalls have been done if not they will get you the parts if possible. Rear isolators and front isolators have a good chance of meeding replaced watch the ignition switch they are the source of many frustrations. The shock if it is an all chrome sealed shock look at the back bottom and see if there is any fluid coming out if not its fine if so it will need repaired soon or repaced. If it has an exposed coil it is a newer shock and you can trade me!!!!
Overall nice bikes it will piss your women off they are addicting.
Let me know if i can help you
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Mike13
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 11:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks S1owner. Much appreciated. I'll keep all that stuff in mind. I already asked if all recalls had been addressed and they stated they were but who knows. Is there any benefit to having the new style shock over the old if the old is in proper working order? How about handling and braking? I use to have an XB and now have an R and CR. I imagine they don't brake as well as the aforementioned?
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No_rice
Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2012 - 11:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know about that, my S1 brakes pretty damn good! Although its got 16 pistons helping its whoa..... lol.
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Mike13
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes!!! That is something I am curious about as well. Interested in hearing of dual brake set ups that y'all have performed. It seems the perch is already there on the left side. Any easy kits or suggestions on how to perform such a thing?
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Kalali
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At the risk of stating the obvious, you may also want to make sure the bike shifts properly, e.g., not jumping out of gear, neutral is easy to find, etc.
Good luck.
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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the older shock works there is no meed to replace or repair it. As far as going with a new one yes there is benifits like tuneability, better control there are also kits out there to convert it to a standard shock instead of a pull shock which enables you to use the much cheaper and alot easier to aquire push shock from Ducatis and some other bikes. Plus all the newer shocks are easily serviced which is the main issue with the original it was never meant to be serviced!
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S1owner
Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 07:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let me know if you need anything i have some extra parts!
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Mike13
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 02:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks again guys! All advice is appreciated.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ride it before you add the weight and complexity of a second front brake.

I own tubers, a Uly, and a CR. None of them are "lacking" in the brake department, especially with good pad compounds and clean brake fluid.

There is a reason (many reasons, actually) Buell only put a single brake on the front....

And as for the shifting - even that's relatively easy to fix. Tubers have trap-door transmissions, remember? Pull the primary and the clutch, and it's what...five bolts to remove the entire transmission gearset?
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Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Five bolts and a very small crowbar - there's a notch for it.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just use my "Excalibur" screwdriver. It's a 24" flat-blade with a 1/2" square shaft. I think I actually used it to turn a screw once, too... ; )
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Hogluvr
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell,

I think your "Excalibur" is a cousin of my "Bertha", have used her for a lot of things other than what she was intended for!
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Mike13
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bad news guys. Bike got sold before i could get there. I really appreciate all the advice but it's gonna have to wait. Still be lookin for one though. Thanks again!
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S1owner
Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2012 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buy this one http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/668022.html?1329061721
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Mike13
Posted on Monday, February 13, 2012 - 02:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks but too far away.
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