| Author | Message | ||
     Orngm2 |
just bought a RUNNING 1999 x1 with 18K miles for $1100... things noticed so far: rear isolators trashed. PM wheels in good shape, just need to be polished. Banke shifter set up and brake lever. JEGS muffler and header set up, needs to be sanded and painted and rear exhaust stud broken. wanted a project or a bike to part out...? i have a hard time ripping apart good bikes when with a little work they could run good. bike needs a lot of TLC but could be a nice stripped down street fighter... anybody got an opinion or advice? | ||
| Dutch_x1 |
Pm send  | ||
| Hogluvr |
Yeah, DON'T part it out! | ||
| Ausx1er |
PM sent | ||
| Onebadx1 |
Fix the bike! The VULTURE'S will be circling. | ||
| Bsdfool |
LOVE my '99 X1 - fix the bike, it's worth it! | ||
| Two_seasons |
My X1 Lightning is currently my daily driver when the weather permits. However, once I find an M2 Cyclone that hasn't been damaged, and the selling party isn't concealing same  , that, then, will become my daily driver. X1's are great bikes and should be fixed, not parted out. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The X1 rear isolators are the easiest to swap out. (provided that you can manage to break the two huge bolts loose!) Mine are 1/2" allen-head. I was very fortunate that my dad had collection of huge old wrenches. I was able to cut off a segment and use it within a normal socket wrench. | ||
| Devil_car |
Fix it, or sell it to me cheap! | ||
| Alfau |
Want an honest answer? X1 look good but that's where it ends .It will fall apart every time you ride it, if not every time then second time. The exhaust will get loose,the crank shaft will self destruct after a very short time, the oil pump drive gear will grind itself away,the primary drive chain tensioner has to be updated to stop it from destroying the cases,the clutch grenade plate is called a grenade plate because it "WILL" explode, the gearbox needs constant tweaking ,the thing will blow oil all over the place unless you have a catch can,the crank seal will pop if you happen to slightly over rev the motor and fill your primary case with engine oil, and your gonads will get crushed from the very uncomfortable riding position. In general this bike is a lousy advertisement for things American. The good news is that there are plenty of dedicated diehards always a need of parts. Sad Fact "You will go broke trying to keep it going." I know because I own one. (Message edited by alfau on January 03, 2012) | ||
| Hootowl |
I have many fall-apart-free miles on mine. My oil pump gear has not failed. My clutch has not failed. The chain tensioner was $15. Ouch. (sarcasm emoticon) | ||
| Oldog |
I know because I own one. You must abuse yours, I have to work on mine but its not broke down all the time May I suggest a little PM ... Oh Congrats Orngm an I.R.A.N. session and some TLC you will have a one of a kind.. (Message edited by oldog on January 03, 2012) | ||
| Two_seasons |
Don't know why Alf is having so many issues. I own two, and between the two this year, put over 10,000 miles on them. Zero issues with moving parts. New rear shock on both. | ||
| Vecchio_lupo |
Thanks for the scare Brother, I missed Halloween this year. I have ridden a 99 S3T for a couple trouble free years now (Not completely trouble free, but not enough to complain) and I love it. When I spotted a well cared for 99 X1 I snapped it up. Now I am having anxiety over the purchase. Only time will tell. What realistically should I expect in the way of regular or irregular maintenance? | ||
| Hootowl |
Your 99 S3 and X1 have the same motor. Cams, fuel system, transmission...all the same. The frame and tail section are different. That's about it other than the body work. I wouldn't expect any differences in reliability between the two. | ||
| Two_seasons |
1.) Get a Service Manual. American Sport Bike has them. 2.) Change all fluids. 3.) Check intake seals. This can be done with propane or Mapp gas on a hose from the cylinder. Don't use carb cleaner or the like, it will make your seals into mush. 4.) If stock airbox, make sure your air filter is sealing well. 5.) Make sure your drive belt is not tight. Private and dealers have a nasty habit of overtightening them. Buellistic will chime and and PM you the "spec". Excellent info. 6.) Remove your primary and ensure that your primary chain tensioner is the revised one. 7.) After you check the tensioner, adjust it for correct deflection, which is 1/2" to 5/8". Must rotate the chain around (ignition off, 5th gear spin the rear tire) 8.) Adjust your clutch. 9.) Do not overfill your oil. Catch cans are handy. See American Sport Bike for many tuber parts. Excellent service. 10.) Don't wait until your LFL (low fuel light) comes on before you gas up. Hard on the fuel pump. 11.) Check your engine mounts, your iso's and your exhaust studs. 12). Check your fuse box for corrosion. Don't reverse (180 degrees) your steering diodes! If you have a CEL (check engine light) on, (that is the one on the tach with the "V" under it) that can be checked by finding the Diagnostic Plug, located either around the head stem area behind and below the headlight or under the seat (I actually saw this on Gonzo's bike). You'll need a jumper wire with spring loaded clip ends. Rotate the Diagnostic Plug so the plug lock is at the 12 o'clock position. Then jumper the two right side pins (it's a four pin connector). With that, have the ignition switch to the on position, then put your kill switch to the on position. Be ready to write down the code(s) that will flash out in a sequence. All codes are two digits. You will have a comm flash, followed by a pause of a couple of seconds, followed by the first digit flash(es), followed by the second digit flash(es), then on to the next and next if there are more than one DTC (diagnostic trouble code) stored. You just bought a Ferrari. Your maintenance will make you familiar with the bike even more, making each ride more enjoyable. Once adjusted, these bikes are low maintenance. I picked my '99 in Mankato MN and drove it 350 miles home. Never saw the bike before or knew the previous owner. You'll be fine once you get your hands dirty and ensure that what you have underneath you is adjusted correctly. | ||
| Britchri10 |
FWIW: My medium term plans were to replace the oil pump drive. Check & adjust the gearbox/selectors, renew intake seals, have the fork oil changed & follow the recommended maintenance items/schedules per the handbook. Once I "sorted" the bike I had c7,000 trouble free miles of riding from it. As it is now located where it is I would also check the "slack" in the drive belt. I have no proof but I always felt it ran "looser" in the hot Florida environment than it would where it is now! I had one header stud break so I had all of the studs replaced professionally. Chris C | ||
| Britchri10 |
(I forgot this bit...) In the long term I was contemplating changing the rear shock as the "stockers' do not have a great reputation for durability! I would also make sure you adjust the suspension F&R to suit your weight/riding style. Chris C | ||
| Fahren |
Best write-up for properly swapping out the rear isolators (DO NOT spread the frame) - great piece to augment the Buell service manual: http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
"Scott-free" method not needed for X1 frames. They have a removable panel on the right side. | ||
| Vecchio_lupo |
Britchri10 is the previous owner of my new X1, he has been very forthcoming about work done and work needed. I am very pleased to have done business with him. I have not even ridden it other than around the Dealer parking lot when I put new tires on it. I am still waiting for my riding gear to arrive from Germany with the rest of my house hold goods. Rest assured I will give it much love. One of the things that attracted me to the X1 was the commonality with my S3T. THanks everybody. |
