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Archive through December 30, 2011Gmaan0330 12-30-11  11:17 am
         

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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My push rods are fine, I checked them this last time to opened up the cases

Except that something could have been reassembled off-center or out of alignment.

End result is, it needs to get opened up for diagnosis. Metallic clanging is not a result of a misfire, sorry.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I will check the valve timing again today one last time. I did not think a dead cylinder would make that sound but I am still new to Buell and still learning, I just thought that a big piston and long stoke on these bikes could cause this sound. I do have to address the coil issue, I should be able to start the bike and remove one plug wire at a time and still keep the motor running, mine will die when the front wire is removed. This tells me the rear cylinder is not firing strong.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your rear intake pushrod is my best suspect. The valve will open, but not enough to run the motor on one cylinder. Tried running on just the front with a plug in the rear coil wire grounded to the cylinder fin to see how hot the spark is? The wires to your coil have a tendency to fracture about four to six inches from the coil where the tank pinches them. If the coil is bad PM me: I have the original from my S3 left over from the carburetor conversion.
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Preybird1
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 10:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hope it's not piston slap. Stupid question: did you put the push rods back into there original positions. 3 red stripes is the front pushrod and 1 stripe is the rear. If its in there wrong your gonna here some racket and it will wear the valve train and make more noise later.





(Message edited by preybird1 on December 30, 2011)
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My money is still on valvetrain. NOT cams, valvetrain. Pushrods, rockers, or valves/springs. Piston slap is more of a knock; a clank or clatter tells me its a lightweight, back and forth part.

Cam timing / valve timing won't tell you if you have a bent pushrod. Pull the rockerboxes, and the rocker plates. Inspect the rockers. Inspect the pushrods. Inspect the valves, springs, and retainers. Look for broken or missing pieces. And Russ has a good point - make sure you have the pushrods installed in the correct order.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Monday, January 02, 2012 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I checked the valve timing, and all the push rods are in the correct position. still makes the sound but runs with a back fire through the exhaust. The motor has a fresh top end from last year, bored, new rings, valves redone, so I am going to rule out piston slap.
I really do not want to do this but I think I better bring it in to the shop for evaluation. As I stated earlier I am new to Buell's and not sure how to fully troubleshot problems. Originally when I bought this bike I was reluctant to work on it. People told me I needed all kinds of special tools and so on, Had the work done at a shop, Firemanjim set me straight on how easy they are to work on, and they are. Crap, after doing the gasket I realized I did not even have to remove the rocker boxes! I just hate to be stumped!!!!!!
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Harleyelf
Posted on Monday, January 02, 2012 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Backfire? Ever had the exhaust lifter out and squeezed it to see if the plunger is frozen? Rocker cover off, rocker arm off, pushrod out, pushrod tube off, lifter block off, use a magnet to lift the lifter. Cam cover stays on, oil stays in bag.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 04:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stupid question
possible timing issue? cup / plate in wrong place....

F/Rear outa time with the front in limit?
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Gmaan03
Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll take out the lifters and check them. I called for parts they are $32. each not to bad I guess.....
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Harleyelf
Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Easy to clean. Soak the pieces in oil, rub them with a rag, re-assemble. Held together by a simple clip.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I guess I need a stronger magnet! I can get the lifter right to the edge but my magnet slips. It is old like me!
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The edge probably has a micro sized burr on it.

Only one of them gave me a fuss. Took me a few beers. I think I used a magnet to get it high enough and a pair of heavy duty tweezers with long sharp points. I was able to grab the edge of the roller (not much there to grab) and just get it past the one small sweet spot that allowed it to lift out.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

got it out and it was jammed closed! I will fix it up and try again this weekend.
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Preybird1
Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice about time we got something going here on this problem and good luck to you sir!
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Gmaan03
Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I finely broke down and brought it into JT&S. Jim told me it was a seized piston that un-seized itself and wrecked a couple rings, or something in that order. I would have never thought that was it! Long story short, I need new cylinders and pistons! Crap! I was going to take out the tranny to fix second gear, but that will have to wait for now. I will get this bike perfect sooner or later...........
I need to do the following to make it all perfect:
Fix 2Nd gear
Rebuild front forks (bad seal)
Fix neutral switch
Install XB stator and rotor
Detail it
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Eshardball
Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2012 - 07:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what about the FRESH top end from last year? Did you speak to the guy that did the work? Unless the oil pump stopped workin, it sounds like the rings may have not been sized properly
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2012 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We are discussing this and hopefully have it resolved soon. They are going to offer me free 1250 Nikasil cylinders, i'll pay for the pistons/rings. I never raced this bike, always warmed it for a few minutes, and changed the oil regularly with synthetic oil. When I opened the cam cover it was super clean, so no bad oil.
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