| Author | Message | ||
     Dfbutler |
Took a ride yesterday and the engine started to cut out intermittently. There did not seem any rhyme or reason to where or when. I'd be riding along and the engine would just die. Twisting the throttle seemed to have no real effect and the engine would just come back. Had an exciting moment when in a down hill twisty section, the engine died, I down shifted while juicing the throttle trying to get it refired and all of a sudden it came back pulling the front wheel into the air. I'm thinking some intermittent electrical, suggestions as to where to look? | ||
| Akbuell |
As always, check grounds for tightness. And check both battery cables carefully. If no problems there, try jumpering around your ignition switch. They can/do get wonky with age. | ||
| Msr203 |
I had that problem with my S3 and it was a loose engine temp sensor, does your check engine light come on? | ||
| Dfbutler |
Checked for error codes, tightened battery terminals and did TPS reset, still cuts out. | ||
| Mcelhaney14 |
I had a similar problem and it turned out to the safety switch on the clutch. If you still have that installed just try unplugging it and jumping the two wires together. | ||
| Dfbutler |
Checked for error codes, tightened battery terminals and did TPS reset, still cuts out. | ||
| Msr203 |
Another place to look is kick stand switch | ||
| Snowbees |
Had a similar problem with my x1, it would cut out then start again, run for a bit then repeat. It was the bank sensor failing. you can turn it off with ecmspy. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Next time it cuts out, 'unlock' the tab on your fuel cap to let the vacuum in the tank equalize. Could be your tank vent isn't venting, and you're fuel-starving. | ||
| Barrick09 |
^^ thats what i was going to suggest. Mine was doing the same thing turned out to be a pinched fuel line. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Mine was the ignition switch on a '99 X1. I learned to reach behind the fly screen and wiggle the connector and it would come back on. It was quite puckering in the beginning not knowing when it would come back to life but after I found out what it was, no problems. I just wired in a rocker switch in place of the ignition, hid it and figured I'd replace it later; still haven't. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I could also be the cam position sensor failing when warm and then working again after cooling down. | ||
| Dfbutler |
Thanks for the input. The problem started small, like a engine hiccup on the freeway at the beginning of the ride and the cut outs became more frequent and longer. After TPS reset test ride, the problem continued to worsen with engine dying and only restarting with the starter. One thought, intake seals? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Intake seals would make it pop at high rpm and die at low. Wouldn't make it die during a downshift; wouldn't make it re-start suddenly with more power. That's electrical. If your coil wires are good (they pinch under the tank about six inches from the coil) and you don't have any dirty connections, the fault is in your ignition switch, kill switch, ECM, BAS, or cam position sensor. The seals may be bad also, but they're not your primary issue. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Try pulling your plug wires on both ends and reseating them FIRMLY on both ends, with a little twisting while doing that. | ||
| Jim2 |
What about the ignition relay? I know that most people believe that they either work or do not work but I've found that they can be "sticky" and act intermittently. Test by switching the ignition and starter relay. | ||
| Dfbutler |
Had one person suggest the fuel filter. Any thoughts on that causing an intermittent fault? | ||
| Kyrocket |
Sounds electrical. If it was a fuel filter it would spit and sputter as the last of the fuel passed through the fuel injection then die and not restart right away. If I've read right it's cutting out and eventually cutting right back on just like flipping a switch? If so it's electrical and best guess is one of the sensors is the culprit. A couple of years ago mine died as I was pulling into a gas station not to be started again until I ran down 70-11 miles of wire only to find the speed-o-meter sensor had crapped out and acted as a kill switch. Unhooked it and it fired right up. | ||
| Dfbutler |
Sounds like I need to have it towed to the stealership after checking the few obvious ones that were suggested here. | ||
| Kalali |
My money is on either on the ignition switch or the clutch safety switch. The clutch safety switch takes less than 5 minutes to bypass and rule out. As for the ignition switch, put your finger on the red wire behind the housing and feel to see if it is hot. If so, there is your clue. Don't give up so soon. | ||
| Kyrocket |
I thought maybe there was an update, any news as to the culprit? | ||
| 96s2t |
I had a problem with my bike only firing on one cylinder when it got hot.After 15 minutes of cool down time it started up and ran fine. The aftermarket COMPUFIRE ignition module was the fault. The new S.E. module hasn't missed a beat. |
