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Archive through October 24, 2011Blake30 10-24-11  11:27 am
         

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Fahren
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, gentle riding to scrub in is fine. A light brake cleaner wipe-down with the cleaner on a rag is also fine. There's nothing wrong with it. Sheesh. Bottom line is take it easy, scrub them in, warm them up. Neither scrubbing with a soapy water/brush, not brake cleaner on a rag, is a "silver bullet."

Sage advice about street riding you give above.^^
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Db4570
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I appreciate all the input. I am patient enough that I can scrub them off gradually, naturally, rather than use a solvent of any sort on them.

Blake, you make a point that is very interesting to me. I am, in fact, not dragging the pegs, or even close to that point, I'm guessing. (I did drag the toe of my boot a couple times because it was under the shifter as I was shifting exiting a turn. I learned from that.)

The bike is so agile and stable, and the tires are so fat and performance-looking, that the tire sliding out is a big surprise to me. It just seems incongruous with the rest of my experience on this bike. And it is definitely sliding- the last one was a foot or two, and I almost lost the bike.

It has an oil breather catcher, but I'm not sure I like where it is, way up front. I noticed it was dribbling a couple weeks ago, and emptied it. I'll have to check to make sure it's not spewing anything. The tranny breather catcher I don't know about. I'll have to look for it. I'm guessing there isn't one. Any recommended sources for these? Cheap and effective works for me.

If this continues, and I can't track down the problem, I may see if I can find a serious performance bike expert to take it for a spin, to see if it's me or the bike.

Thanks!

David
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Babired
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

David go to the tire manufactor web site with your tire information and see what the PSI is supposed to be for front and rear tires.
here is a link for you
http://totalcontroltraining.net/
please check it out
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Guell
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you set your rear suspension? I was playing with mine and it made the rear feel very loose when pushing it. Ft bstrd rode it too and agreed. Id look at that and your rear iso's
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Greg_cifu
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As I posted before: I removed a BRAND-NEW Dunlop Roadsmart from my S3 after only about 600 miles for the very reasons you described. I'm not saying that the tires are your problem but, don't discount it either.

Just as Blake posted, roads are dirty places. I have no clue what kind of surfaces you're riding or how much riding experience you have but, that bike should handle really, really well.

I spent this weekend stuffing both my S1W and S2 through the turns on Angeles Crest Highway and both bikes were rock-stable on Michelin Pilot Road 2 tires--nearly as good as the Westwind which has brand-new Pilot Powers on it (a sticky compound, sport tire). When I bought both the S1W and the S3, they had very spooky handling traits and I was very disappointed. Ultimately, both bike's problems were linked to the choice in tires.

Give the tires a chance and make sure everything else is right. At the end of the day, if you can't seem to find anything wrong, don't be afraid to pull the tires. You could always put them on a shelf and use them later if they turn out to not be the problem.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DB,

I just used whatever little container happens to fit and then tie wrap it in place. I've seen some use "energy" drink botlles, beer cans, or a good sized fuel filter with both ports located on one end.

What muffler does the bike have?
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Blake
Posted on Monday, October 24, 2011 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DB,

Do you by chance use Armour-All or a similar treatment on the sidewalls?
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Db4570
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 12:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake-

There is no Armour All or anything else on the tires except the new-tire coating.

The bike has a V&H muffler which is getting really irritating, so I have the brackets ordered to put the stock one on that came with it. Why? The muffler outlet is pointing near the tire, if that means anything. FWIW, IIRC, the only times I've had the tire slide out were from the opposite side from the exhaust- when I'm turning right. Maybe just coincidence.

Babired-

That Total Control course looks like just what I need. There is one coming up in May near where I live. I think I'm going to do it.

Greg-

I will give the tires a chance, and slowly work them through their paces once the coating is worn off. I think it was here that I had read great recommendations for these Metzelers, but will try something else if I have to. I have a feeling once the tires are broken in, and I know how handle this bike, my problem will be solved.

Next project, once my service manual shows up, is to set the suspension. Any tips to supplement the manual?

You guys are a big help. Thanks, and keep the ideas coming!

David
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

always wash new tires with brake cleaner or simple green, to get the mold release agents off.
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Jim2
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The settings in the Factory Service Manual for the rear shock are for the shock that was recalled. The replacement shock is a bit different. The recall document has a new procedure that is probably very similar but I think the new shock has the rebound and compression valves on the opposite ends or something like that. I have the document I can scan for you. PM me if you want it.

I run 38/36 on my Pilot Road 2 CT's. There is a big noticeable difference between 38/36 and 36/34.
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Thejosh
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put an aftermarket shock on, some Dunlop Q2's, your bike will be way better.

Josh
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Babired
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

David awesome there are too many things that could cause you to lose traction TCARC can help you evaluate you and your bike for traction management! K
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've never washed new tires. Certainly not with brake cleaner. Where are y'all getting that idea? Seems extreme. A little aggressive weaving on the open road will get tires scrubbed-in in a matter of seconds. That's all I've ever done. Never had any traction issues due to tires.

Fun to see road racers take off with the stickers still on the tires.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2011 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe the heat where you live helps the coating come off that much faster Blake?

It takes a couple days of careful riding for me to get the mold release off of tires that have it. I believe one of the features of the Conti's is that they are using a forming method that doesn't require the stuff, so you have instant new tire traction when you mount the new tires.

I noticed that brake cleaner took the coating right off when I was finishing my front brake rebuild and had a new tire on (over-spray dribbling off, onto the tire). I also wondered if it was harming the rubber in any way.
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Babired
Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2011 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've never scrubbed off the tire wax with brake cleaner either or simple green or anything. Just be careful and scrub them in road riding for the first 200 miles. I would set up the old ERC 1st exercise on a parking lot to help scrub in. Its a giant weave of 7 cones with the start on the long side.
Start turn left to the first cone across the range speed up slow for the corner turn left tight, go across the range to the next cone speed up slow tight right to make the next left. FUN! cones probably 40 to 45 feet away from each other going back and forth. on each side you would have to space them out, I always made it real tight and adjusted this when I rode it. This was the old ERC exercise for instructors to see if the riders had the skills to continue.
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