| Author | Message | ||
     X1bueller |
Then I shift into first gear, the gears grind and the bike stalls unless I give it extra throttle. Once it is in gear, it will work fine. I went through the clutch adjustment process in the manual and it has made no difference... In fact, the "properly" adjust clutch is a little worse. Is something seriously broken? | ||
| 99_x1 |
Stock lever? I had an aftermarket short reach lever that didn't allow enough cable pull. Put the stock lever on and I had correct disengagement. | ||
| X1bueller |
Stock Lever. Nothing else has changed. | ||
| Dpb |
I'd check the clutch throwout bearing. Mine went bad and I couldn't keep the clutch adjusted. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
How many miles? My "grenade plate" went bad around 50,000 miles and behaved in the same way. The teeny little brass rivets wear though and then gouge into the adjacent fiber plates making a bunch of drag. | ||
| X1bueller |
I have 16,000 miles on it. OK, so I went through adjusting it several times. I tightened the screw until it "lightly" bottomed out and nada. I also adjusted it on the tight side, as we as loosy-goosy. Every time, the result is the same.... The gears grind and when it is up on jack stands, the wheel will spin.... So possibly a throw out bearing? Which bearing is this? I looked in my parts catalogue and there are 2 bearings on the clutch page and they BOTH say "Bearing." There is a bearing that is attached to the adjustment screw. the bearing turns freely, however, the adjustment screw and the bearing itself is a little loosy-goosy. There is probably 1/8 to 3/16 worth of play where the adjustment screw goes into the bearing. Should this be nice and snug? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If it was a bearing, you would hear a rumble when you are stopped idling in gear with the clutch pulled in. My 2008 XB12x did that. I was the bearing between the inside and outside of the clutch. (Water got in) | ||
| Jim2 |
When my grenade plate went out at about 18,000 miles my first symptom beside a few momentary crunchy sounds that went away, was that my clutch adjustment would not hold consistent. It would be good anywhere from 3 hours to 3 weeks but I had to keep re-adjusting. The reason I had to keep re-adjusting is that many of the brass rivets that hold the springs in place wore out and broke free. Three or four of the springs within the spring plate assembly were than free to move about. They stacked together increasing the thickness on the part of the spring plate they bunch up on. This made the pack thicker on one side and thinner on another. I believe they would slide around causing change from time to time. | ||
| X1bueller |
Thanks for the help guys, but I am still not sure where I stand.... It's not that my clutch wont STAY adjusted... I cant seem to get it adjusted in the first place. No matter what I do, it grinds into first or second gear and stalls. I cant seem to find anything else obviously wrong with it. | ||
| Jim2 |
I don't know how much play is acceptable on the throw out bearing (the one attached to the clutch adjustment screw). That would be the easiest one to replace and rule-out without going into the primary. After that you could go into the primary and check a bunch of things. I don't know if the X1 has the trap-door transmission? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Only first gear, not any other upshifts? All tubers have the standard sportster "trap door" transmission. Parts should be easily obtainable from the local HD shop (calmly reassure them it's just a sportster tranny and they will hopefully still be willing/able to help you). If it's not the throw-out bearing, pull and inspect the clutch pack. You'll only need a primary locking bar or some improvised device to lock the primary so you can the clutch pack. Pulling the primary cover will let you know if you've got parts rattling around in there. Also, while you've got the primary cover off - it seems to vary depending on where in the production run the bikes were built, as to whether the 2000 model year bikes got the updated primary chain adjuster, so make sure an check it when you get the cover off. | ||
| X1bueller |
I just went to Chicago HD in Glenview IL and of course, they dont have any bearings for a Buell or a Sportster. Their parts network confirmed that there isnt one anywhere around. But the brainiac behind the counter suggested that I check the primary chain adjustment as it might be too tight. Does this sound plausible? To answer some questions...... The grinding happens going from N to 1 or N to 2. I don't recall having it happen going into our out of higher gears the last time I had it on the road. | ||
| X1bueller |
I pulled the throw out bearing and it appears to be a decent shape. There is a little "play" with the adjustment screw. It moves in and out about 1/16. Nothing else is obvious. I pulled the inspection cover and the primary chain does not seem to be too tight. In fact, it may be a bit loose. Observation-- Shouldn't I be able to see the chain adjuster through the inspection cover? | ||
| Kalali |
"Shouldn't I be able to see the chain adjuster through the inspection cover?" Funny you ask. Someone had posted they checked their adjustment shoe through the inspection cover so I tried it this past weekend. I was able to see the edge of the surface where the chain rests on the shoe but that's about it. Even tried the little folding/telescopic mirror trick but the oil kept covering the mirror blocking the view of the side/underneath the shoe. Perhaps I should have kept the bike straight up off the side stand. Anyway, others may have a better method but I couldn't see anything useful. Sorry about the long response. | ||
| Buellistic |
IMHO, if there is any doubt on a bearing, just replace it as they are not that expensive, "i" went to a sealed bearing ... | ||
| X1bueller |
Picked up a new sealed bearing yesterday. I will try to get it installed tonight and see what happens. if this doesn't fix it, then I guess I will bull the primary to get a better look. | ||
| Ratbuell |
you say you 'lightly bottomed' the screw...did you then back it out the requisite 1/4-1/2 turn? and you are going the correct direction, right? reverse thread? | ||
| X1bueller |
No, it is not reverse thread. The adjustment screw is a standard thread but you are turning it from the opposite end which required you to turn it in the opposite direction. But yes. I am doing the adjustment procedure correctly. | ||
| Buellistic |
X1BUELLer: You have a "PM" ... | ||
| X1bueller |
Update**** (or should I say down date)  I went to a bearing house and picked up a new sealed bearing. Installed it and I am still having the same problems. What should I look at next? Buellistic.... I cannot get pm's.... Its been that way for years. I keep telling the board management about it but never a reply. I am at bjanakos[at]hotmail.com (Message edited by x1bueller on August 30, 2011) | ||
| Dfbutler |
Check throw out bearing? Clutch is worn/shot? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Pop off that primary and look inside. It's not hard. See nothing in the primary? Then removal of clutch plates is easy with some improvised tools. Lemme find that link...... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Here it is: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html Others have used a chunk of PVC pipe. It's pretty easy. | ||
| X1bueller |
Great. I will try to take take off the primary this weekend. May as well upgrade the gasket I guess. Is there a part number for the new metal gasket? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's the same as a standard sportster part of the same year. Sorry I don't know the number but a standard H-D dealer should be able to set you up. The clutch plates are also standard sportster stuff too. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Primary cover gasket is part # 34955-89B | ||
| X1bueller |
Thanks.... I was not sure if I should use the same part number from my parts book. I want to make sure I get the new-fangled metal gasket. | ||
| Kalali |
Probably a dumb question but does the clutch need to be re-adjusted when you disconnect the cable to remove the primary cover? | ||
| Buellistic |
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Blake |
Also check transmission/primary oil level. Even just a little too much can cause trouble like described. |
