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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 23, 2011 » I think I am in over my head, need advice or help « Previous Next »

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M2statz
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finally got my drive belt from American Sport Bike after their server was down, start taking the M2 apart and can not get the rear tire off. What worries me is taking the Isolator off and getting the correct tension on the belt when putting the new one on. The service manual calls for 1.5 to 1.75 inches of travel with 10fbs of pressure, how the heck do you measure that?!? Heck I do not know if I even have the bike on the stand right! Any advice would be great, thanks.
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forget about the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL as it is "WRONG" ...

DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for your copy ...

After you read it you will understand "WHY" !!!
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Notblues2
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A swingarm stand is the best way to support the back. The wheel comes right off once you slide the axle out.

The easiest way to change the belt is to unhook the heim links at the top of the engine and in the back in front of the rear tire, remove your air cleaner, remove the big bolt through the front motor mount, remove the bolts that go through the center of the isolators, and finally raise the frame in the back. The isolators will come up with the frame because they're held on by a little roll pin. Once the frame is high enough the isolator will clear the swing arm block and fall off. You can now change the belt. Putting it back together you just put the isolators back over the roll pin and lower the frame back down and put the bolts through the isolators. The whole job is not very hard to do. Set the belt tension very loose almost to the point where you think it will fall off.
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Notblues2
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh don't forget you need to support the front of the motor when you remove that big bolt through the front motor mount.

The job can be done without unhooking the front motor mount but you risk damaging the isolator or the front head because you'll be raising the back of the frame and torquing that whole front motor mount connection.
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Notblues2
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One more thing be careful how you handle the new belt. If you bend it in a tight radius or bend it over backwards you'll ruin it.
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

REAR ISOLATORS Class 101, just PM me for your copy ...

YOU MUST NOT SPRING THE FRAME !!!
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Fahren
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Listen to Lafayette!

See also:

http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html
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M2statz
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 09:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks to all for the help and pointers. I did talk to Lafayette last night while in front of the the M2 and that helped a lot!! Plan to finish the job the tonight. Will let you know how it goes. Keep your fingers crossed.
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