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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, July 10, 2011 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK. '00 M2. Rode it, gears 2-5 behave normally. Neutral is....kinda normal. First is a mess.

What it does: you toe it down into first at a stop. You get the 'clunk'. You let the clutch out, it starts to move....then once the clutch is all the way out...WHACK/CLUNK, it slams the rest of the way into gear.

Or, it has forward motion but sounds like a box of rocks.

Shift to second, it behaves fine.

Third, fourth, fifth...same. Just fine, upshift or downshift. Just first being wonky.

Tonight I pull the primary and the clutch/rotor/chain. Got a bare inner case, shift rod, detent plate, and the part that slides against the detent plate (detent? not labeled in the books, barrel at one end of a lever, spring at the other end).

Detent plate is roughly star-shaped, with a scallop for each gear. When in gear, the no-name piece sits in the scallop.

But not in first.

Before I pull the trap door and the whole transmission...is this an adjustment issue? or do I need to pull it all out anyway?

Or am I even describing it well enough for anyone to understand? : )
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Rich
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2011 - 06:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same problem with my Sportster when I got it, Joe.

Replaced 1st gear and it went away.
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Someday
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2011 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup, you probably have to replace both 1st gears. Mine started doing that at about 40,000. When new the engaging dogs are dovetailed with reasonably sharp edges. Over time the dovetail gets hammered flatter and the edges get rounded causing the symptoms you described.
The roller does have to lock into the detent plate for each gear, so you might also have an adjustment issue. A workshop manual would be very helpful.

(Message edited by someday on July 11, 2011)
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, July 11, 2011 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IF the clutch, shifter pawl/shaft is set up correctly and parts are good, the primary chain/drive belt are adjusted correctly and the problem still exists then the transmission needs to be pulled ...

It is a first gear/gears problem ...

"i" also had this problem due to my size 13 foot and the gears related to first gear got replaced ...

CORRECT ADJUSTMENT HELP "INFO", just PM me for copies ...


(Message edited by buellistic on July 11, 2011)
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've got tuber manuals, that's no problem when it comes to disassemble/rebuild stuff...but educated eyes are irreplacable when it comes to identifying what needs to be disassembled/rebuilt to begin with : )

I'll likely pull the trans tonight, just to check it out. Everything else is out of the bike already - primary, rotor, clutch pack, chain...just, what, four bolts left and its out? Easy-peasy : )
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RatBUELL:

IMHO, FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS and PARTS BOOKs are good for REFERENCE, "BUT" sometimes they are wrong ...

ie: primary chain/drive belt and some things are left out because some things you are supposed to be born knowing them ...
They leave out TORQUE PATTERNS ...

Where the gears mesh will indicate what is bad as will shifter forks ...

"AND" all assembly adjustments have to be correct or the problem will reoccur ...
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