| Author | Message | ||
     Dano1z |
hey everyone, Just bought a 2000 x1 and was wanting some general maintenance help. It came with forcewinder intake and filter, race ecm, vance and hines pipe, and penske shock. i was wondering what are some issues with this bike and what are some things i should look at before putting some decent miles on it and not having it break down or any problems. It has been using a lot of oil and not sure what the problem could be. Any info appreciated! thanks | ||
| Kilroy |
Keep your oil level at the bottom of the dipstick, hot. Too much oil and it will just puke it out the breathers until it finds its proper level. You may not be "using" oil at all. Kilroy | ||
| 01x1buell |
I had the same problem when i got my x1 the dipstick is kinda off a little. | ||
| Dano1z |
Thanks Kilroy, Another question, the tube running from my forcewinder out to under the bike is that the crankcase breather? And also a question about oil and tranny oil, should i put the same in both or tranny oil and motor oil, thinking about buying mobil 1 v-twin 20w50 and putting it in both or also using mobil 1 75w90 gear lube. your thoughts? | ||
| Oldog |
how many miles? After a Close visual inspection I suggest fluid changes check front iso check rear isos check intake seals change brake fluid f/r belt on side stand unladen about 1 7/8" ~ 2"slack Ride Repeat ENJOY issues with my 01 things to check key switch main breaker rocker boxes isos ( sorry engine chassis rubber mounts ) wheel bearings belt ( I was abusing it ) wore 1 and a set of sprockets out brake pads crank shaft seal head mount not common but not unheard of oil pump gear was wearing replaced with up grade replaced defective barel | ||
| Dano1z |
oldog, has 19,xxx, i've put on about 500 this first week and really enjoying it. i owned a buell blast as my first bike and the more i read about problems on here with the x1, the more worried i become  just bought and installed the iriduim ngk plugs. any upgrades you would recommend? Thanks for the help guys! | ||
| Dano1z |
Also, have the penske suspension, it's a $900 suspension and i have no clue on how to adjust it to myself, professional help? or read somewhere? also i live in iowa so if any riders here let me know! haven't seen hardly any buellers! | ||
| Kilroy |
That tube running from the Forcewinder out to under the bike most likely is the breather, but that should be INCOMING. It should not be going straight to the ground. All that is doing is giving air an intake path that is bypassing the filter. You need to find your crankcase breather connection (by the heads on the other side of the motor) and hook it up to that. Or, completely re-do it with an external breather. Do a search on "catch-can" and you will find tons of stuff on external breather set-up. Kilroy | ||
| Oldog |
Dano: I am the original owner with 5x,xxx miles on the machine, ridden HARD The X1 requires maintenance, and reasonable care. Contact AL Lighton (American Sport Bike) for info on the penski He is one of our sponsors, and can point you in the right direction. I have ridden my x1 700 miles in one day If you pay attention to the condition of things it wont be an issue. example: I check the front head mount bolts (visual) before moving, with tires, lights etc. I change the brake fluid every year, I usualy change the gear box oil 2x year about 1x a month I do a close visual inspection looking at every thing closely Pre-emptively I removed the "grenade plate" spring plat in the clutch and installed a bronze oil pump drive gear. I won't buy Irriduim plugs again could not see an improvement and they aint cheap, std plugs correct heat range will work fine if the ddfi is ok The buells have an unearned reputation for poor reliablility, which is not true, they are reasonably easy to work on and are surprisingly rugged in a mishap. get a shop manual for the bike and take the time to get to know it, OH and WELCOME TO THE MADNESS  | ||
| Dano1z |
oldog, another quick question(sorry for them all,newby here) i was a sport bike rider before i got the buell(cbr 600rr) so the v-twin is relatively new to me. What oil should i use? mobil-1 v-twin 20w50,that's what i am leaning towards, could i also use this in the tranny? also the grenade plate? what is that? and should i be thinking about changing that? i also recieved a shop manual with the bike when i bought it so im reading up! Thanks for all the help so far! greatly appreciated!  (Message edited by dano1z on June 06, 2011) | ||
| Oldog |
m1 2050 good stuff in motor sport trans or the like in the box primary the grenade plate is actually the spring plate, the rivits will work out and damage the clutch basket when they do, you need 3 clutch plates ( 2 steel 1 fiber ) and the clutch tool, later buells don't have this part, the plate can be changed at your leisure they typicaly fail about 40K the crankshaft seal will wear out soon for you, you will see oil on the rear hugger.. my list for your bike grease neck bearings, change fork oil check and change isolators check belt and pullies grenade plate check oil pump teeth ( this does not happen to all bikes ) change brake fluid these can be done this winter unless you have problems ride and enjoy | ||
| Hellraged |
yeah the mobil 1 vtwin is good imo, alot of ppl told me to put it in the primary chaincase and it even says on the bottle it can be used for that, like the guy at the auto store told me , harley doesnt make there own oil because there not in the oil business so might aswell buy some oil from a good company like mobil 1 :P so i did about to put it in my tranny today and see if my work fixed the clutch problem, i have a 98 s1 lightning but anyways im a newbie too but i heard the mobil 1 is good stuff . | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You don't need a catch can for the breather. Mine has been routed to the ground for about 30,000 miles. Also, you won't need to worry about the "grenade plate" in the clutch for some time. Mine lasted 50,000. It manifests itself as a clutch that drags and can't be adjusted correctly. One thing to look out for with the 2000 X1 bikes is the primary tensioning shoe. The 2000 and earlier models had a weak primary tensioner. The new one is very robust. also, a CHEAP/EASY thing to do. It sounds like you purchased a well-sorted bike though. The race ECU combined with the forcewinder and V&H muffler is a pretty solid combo. My only gripe with the V&H is that you have to drop the muffler to get at the primary drain. The X1 is simply one of the best bikes ever. Mine is on my "never sell" list. | ||
| Jim2 |
My grenade plate went at only 14K. M2 not X1 but I bet the parts are the same. If you are going in to do the shoe you might as well do the spring plate replace as well. Make sure your belt is not too tight or you will be replacing it and bearings before you should have to. PM me if you want to buy some just slightly used steel and fiber plates necessary to replace the spring plate. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Skip the gear oil (75w90) in the tranny, it will cause your stater to die. Makes shifting so easy you'll want to keep on using it though. I have found the Sport Trans to give less than premium shifting (on my bike), I usually use a synthetic 20/50 in mine and like the shifting better that way. | ||
| Dano1z |
Thanks everyone for all the help, all the tips and info are appreciated! some of those ideas will probably be winter projects. Any reviews on a corbin seat or not worth it? also my ignition switch might be bad, if i jiggle it the odometer flashes off and then on and stays, should i be concerned? Thanks guys | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
i completely agree with all the excellent advice and DOUBLY agree with checking the forward engine mount and bolts. (my mount snapped in half after one of the bolts sheered and went unseen. Ooops) The exhaust system would be another good place to inspect. loose nuts, blown gaskets, and worn rubber bushings/isolaters. Welcome to the fold and enjoy some loud fun. | ||
| Hootowl |
Re the ignition switch, yes. Pretty common for them to go bad. Americansportbike.com has replacement switches (not OEM) that are more reliable, and about a third the price of the OEM part. | ||
| Hootowl |
in fact, I suspect that some of the solenoid issues I've had can be traced back to a weak ignition switch. The current for the solenoid winding goes through the switch, and if there is resistance in the contacts, the plunger doesn't get thrown hard enough and bounces off the contacts, causing additional arcing that accelerates their wear. Just a theory. | ||
| Dano1z |
Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciate it! So should I wait until the ignition gives out, our replace it while it's acting up? Thanks guys! | ||
| X1brett |
Mine got so hot it was melting wires. I was afraid I'd be left stranded. For $24 I'd replace it. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16033.html | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELL NEW OWNER "INFO" Class 101, just PM me for your copies ... (Message edited by buellistic on June 10, 2011) | ||
| Schmidt452 |
Corbin seat is way worth it for me, I put the stock seat on last week and could not believe I use to ride the bike with that on there. | ||
| Dano1z |
is there anyplace i can find a corbin seat that isn't going to break the bank lol i don't know if i can justify $400 on a seat | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Just have to watch the classifieds here for a used seat, or craig's list and ebay. Another option is the Buell aftermarket seat. I believe it's called a Select seat, but may be Pro Series, though it seems like that's just for the racey parts. Sounds like you've got the PM wheels, so you can put a 180/55 (R17) on there. I believe a 190 fits if you haven't got the sub fender on there. That's the smaller fender that mounts on the top of the swing arm. |
