| Author | Message | ||
     Scow1 |
Last week the bike was running great. I did TPS reset and after that the bike has been running terrible. If riding you have to keep on the gas or it will stall out. Seemed like it was missing a bit. I followed the TPS reset instruction from ecmspy and my AFV was set to 100%. I had it out today and the bike was struggling with the low rpms wanting to die. But would hit and pull in the mid-range. So I did a TPS reset and diagnostics checking for codes. I can barely get the bike to idle now. Seems like the timing could be off making it run like crap. Where should I start to get this bike running right? | ||
| Jramsey |
"Last week the bike was running great." Improper TPS reset,timing won't change on it's own unless the sensor or rotor cup came loose which is highly unlikely. Timing is easy to check using Ecmspy. | ||
| Scow1 |
Where is the inspection hole to check the timing? I see the primary clutch inspection cover, is that what they are talking about? I looked in there while spinning the wheel and never saw any top dead center line or dots anywhere. | ||
| Scow1 |
exact steps i took to resetting tps -connected ecmspy and started closed loop - check diagnostics to see where CPS signal was " Green 0" - adjusted idle mixture screw to reach TPS 0.0% and 0 degrees - my volts were 0.99 -hit the tps reset button - says tps reset complete - adjusted idle screw to 5.1% and 4.6 degrees I went and tried to start the bike, needed throttle to get it started. Bike will start rev to around 3k for 3 seconds then shut off. I cant get the bike to idle. When i go to start it again i get a loud backfire. | ||
| Oldog |
intake seals? the electrical stuff usually codes | ||
| Jramsey |
"Where is the inspection hole to check the timing? " Right side at the base of the jugs,3/8 ntp plug takes a 3/8" hex key. "adjusted idle mixture screw to reach TPS 0.0% and 0 degrees - my volts were 0.99" For get what the screen says, back the idle adjustment screw out to where when you snap the throttle closed and try to open you feel it sticking and takes more than normal effort the to open. | ||
| Scow1 |
Will back the idle adjustment screw out a good distance, and check to see where top dead center appears on the inspection port and try to get it as centered as possible. Retry the tps reset again. | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 incorrect tpms reset There should be nothing wrong just turn the idle screw out more so it holds an idle. That 5.1% and 4.6 degrees is just to get the bike idling "tickover" You just need to turn the adjuster screw until the idle is where you want it. | ||
| Scow1 |
Preybird1 I have tried the reset multiple times and seems like I am make it worse each time. I can't get the bike to even stay running long enough for it to idle. Its like it cutting out on fuel. Headers get pretty hot for it running only a few seconds. | ||
| Kalali |
TPS reset procedure has nothing to do with the position of the piston or timing. You may want to visually check to see if the TB is fully closed before you hit the reset button. But it sounds like your issues are above and beyond a TPS reset. Check to see if you're getting fuel from both injectors. You can start by running the ECMSpy diagnostics to see if they open/close, etc. | ||
| Scow1 |
Tried the rest today again. Screwed the idle screw all the way to it stopped. Checked the buffer fly and it was closed. Check the timing port and had the crank i think a top dead center " the vertical slash mark on the crank itself in the center of my port hole". Ran diagnostics on my injectors and fuel pump all were fine. Even checked for codes and non appeared. Went ahead and reset my tps. Turned my idle screw back out. Reload my power commander tune that I had just for the hell of it. Bike started idled for a second and shut off. After that it just cranked and cranked with no start. Being frustrated I put the bike back in it's corner. I'm going to try and put my new plugs in to see if that will help out at all. If not gonna load the bike up and take it to a dealer  | ||
| Lager |
Your bike was running fine before the TPS reset and now its running bad ? So, why did you mess with it? Why Im wondering or asked the question is this? My x1 is quirky at times dealing with the correct squirt of its injectors. But I live thru it and am thankful that it even runs as well as it does considering its antiquated injection system. I sometimes consider a remapping,then come here and read of a lot of folks woes about how it didnt work out so well. Im thinking,as long as the first gen injection Buell operates reasonably well. Just leave it alone. | ||
| Scow1 |
I did the tps reset just because they say to do it every now and then. The power commander I changed because the map loaded wasn't correct for the setup. It was running great after the map change. Everything spiraled down hill after I hit reset tps. People said their bikes ran excellent after tps resets. Hence why I tried it. | ||
| X1_rider |
FWIW, my bike won't idle with the TPS below 8%. | ||
| Jramsey |
" The power commander" Disconnect and install in file 13, all its going to do is fight the ecm. | ||
| Desertfox |
Mine idles at about 6.5% or something. That TPS is a tricky bitch. So you're absolutely certain that the butterfly closed completely? It even stuck a bit? It should feel like it popped open when you twist the throttle. While it is closed snug, you hit the TPS reset. Then you have to turn that idle adjust back in until it idles for you at around 1000rpm. The actual percent and degree don't matter as much. They say that you should do the whole process again once it's reached operating temperature. I'm with Ramsey, drop the power commander. All the X1 really needs is the race ECM fuel map. | ||
| Preybird1 |
Power commanders are crap! disconnect it and throw it out!! | ||
| Firemanjim |
Look at the last thing you did---reset TPS. And the only time they need to be reset is if you swap ECMs or change the tp sensor. If it's not broke---- TP reset--make sure throttle plate is Completely closed when you screw that adjuster off---physically open and close the throttle until you can feel it almost stick closed. The recommended adjustment is just that--every bike runs a bit different and yours may need a bit more. | ||
| Lelandg |
My bike was having very similar symptoms. Was running fine then started acting like yours. Check the spark plugs. That what it ended up being for mine. I was getting spark but i guess it was good enough. | ||
| Kalali |
Like said before, always check the last thing you did and I add always check the easy things first... I've learned that these bikes aren't too prone to sudden death (without any warning) or die without being screwed around with usually by their owner. That been said, check your battery. These AGM batteries can die without any warning and they do all kinds of weird stuff while taking their last breathe...Easy and free to check and rule out. | ||
| Scow1 |
Ok got home from work changed out the plugs this morning and low and behold Lelandg was correct. Plugs were fouled dark carbon with smell of fuel. Threw in new plugs and fired up and idled. Took it around the block and rides great. I'm wondering how this incident even occurred from my initial tps reset? Now do I have to do a TPS reset if it swap out the my exhaust for a buell header and muffler? Thanks for all the help! (Message edited by scow1 on May 05, 2011) | ||
| Desertfox |
No TPS reset for changing anything other than the TPS or the ECM. | ||
| Froggy |
You botched one of the TPS resets, and then you fouled the plugs with constant starting and stalling.
No, you only need a TPS reset if you swap the ECM or TP sensor. You should check it every 10k miles or so to make sure it is still correct, then reset it if necessary, but after the bike has a good 10k miles on them they settle in and typically won't need any further resets. | ||
| Hootowl |
The "TPS reset" should be called the "TPS offset voltage storage procedure". You're not actually "resetting" the TPS. You're storing the offset voltage value in the ECM. It would be less confusing. | ||
| Kalali |
"..you fouled the plugs with constant starting and stalling." Exactly... |
