| Author | Message | ||
     Mebuellx1 |
I know there have been threads in the past about engine cut out issues but I will ask anyways to see if maybe there are some new tips floating around. My 2002 X1 has been running beutifully but intermittently the engine will just cut out on me. This has happened 3 out of the last 4 sundays. The first time I was on a straight-a-way going 60mph/3000rpm and it just bogged down and stalled along with very loud backfire. The second time was while I was opening my garage door to put it away, it just stalled idling. Today it happened going 40mph about 2600rpm after going over a frost heave. The bike does not start right up again after this. Today when it happened I kept trying to start it, it sounded like it wanted to fire up but just kept turning over. I tried to make sure nothing was loose but nothing appeared to be. After about 15 minutes she started up like normal. I think something electrical related is cutting the engine out and the backfire is from fuel it is getting when the engine dies. The bike runs awesome until when it suddenly cuts out. After I got it started, it ran awesome the rest of the way home. I DON'T GET IT. I can also say that I have never had a lick of trouble with this bike until I did the oil gear replacement and removed the cam position sensor over the winter (maybe coincidental). When the bike cut out the second time, since I was home, I checked to see if the cam sensor triggered the fuel pump at ignition timing point and it did. I also bypassed the sidestand switch then also, but since it cut out today, I can rule that out. The bike is a 2002 X1 stock, regular ecm, original sensors, original battery. Any thought or ideas are appreciated, thanks. | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
I also need to add that no codes show up in VSTDS and no engine light. | ||
| Jramsey |
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? | ||
| Snowbees |
my bet is the bank angle sensor, you can turn it off with ecmspy. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I'd have a load test done on your original battery at a reputable battery shop. I'd also check to make sure connector # 14 below the VOLTAGE REGULATOR is making solid contact. Sorry...not an oil cooler Maybe check your coil to plug wires too. If you have the service manual, it's a walk in the park. Good luck. (Message edited by two_seasons on May 02, 2011) | ||
| Nallac |
my bet is the bank angle sensor, you can turn it off with ecmspy. I'm with you on that one Snowbees, My X1 did the same, four times over a period of a month and abit..Disconnected it via ECM spy and no hassles since then,that was over a year ago. | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
I have never changed the fuel filter, I will give it a try and change that tonight. I wonder if I can plug it in and turn Bank angle sensor off with VDSTS, I do not have ECMspy. Will check connector 14 when I find it, plug wires are only a year old but I'll check resistance. I should buy a new battery for it, I'll see if I can bring old one somewhere for load test. Thanks guys, this gives me a new starting point. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Oil cooler? The only oil cooler mine has is when it leaks out and is exposed to the air! Get it started and wiggle around the ignition switch snd the wiring behind it. And jumper the cursed kickstand switch. | ||
| Snowbees |
you can jump two wires on the bank angle sensor plug to bypass it but not sure which two, try a google search of the site. Ecmspy is a must have with an x1, its freeware, all you need to buy is the cable to connect the pc to your bike try ebay for that. (Message edited by snowbees on May 03, 2011) | ||
| Kyrocket |
I'm going to wager it's the BAS or the ignition switch or related wiring. | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
I found the ECM cable still on ebay but don't know where to download the program anymore. I think I will try and bypass the BAS to see if that eliminates the problem. On page 298 and 359 of service manual, it shows the connections to the sensor and ecm. On the sensor, the grey comes from switched ignition power, green/grey goes to ecm input and black goes to ecm sensor ground. I am thinking if I were to short the ignition power (grey) to the sensor input (green/grey) it would always show a completed circuit. I still have to think about it before I actually do the splicing but hopefully I can try it and find out sunday if this is my problem. | ||
| Buell_bert |
If the bank angle sensor is wired and the same type as an M2, jumper A & B this will bypass it. If you jumper A & C on the M2 it will blow the ignition fuse. Also if you just unplug it, it will not run so you need to jumper the connection. Let me us know how it works and sorry I do not have diagrams on the X1's but I do for the 99-02 M2's. Good luck. | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
Thank You for posting that Buell_bert, I would have needed a new fuse. My X1 manual shows A being Green/Grey wire going to ECM BAS input while B is Black going to ECM sensor ground. The C is the switched ignition power. I wasn't thinking that it would be those two wires but I guess it makes sense now. I will try this over the weekend and post how it worked. | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
Well, the BAS sensor is OK, it still died on me with it out of the circuit. (If you unplug it, the bike will start and run, engine light remains on). Only went 25 miles this time and it did it. Same story again, tried to start it and wouldn't go. After about 20 minutes it will start. I got it home let it run and checked computer, the engine temp seemed normal and tps sensor reading same as it always does. I am thinking I may have screwed something up with the Cam position sensor when I did my oil gear. I went to check the timing to make sure it was right on the timing mark, and I noticed that when I was turning the wheel, the fuel pump didn't always come on when the timing mark was in the inspection hole like I had set it, sometimes it would and other times it was outside and couldn't even see the mark. Also, the fuel pump came on about 4 times from the point where I went past timing mark and back to it again (is this normal, I don't recall this happening when I checked it before). I could not read 5 volts for sensor on VSTDS or with voltmeter on the sensor wire at ECM. I only got about 4mV. I checked between sensor wire 3 on ecm and ground. | ||
| Bpt |
Check your fuel pressure. The pump may be either stopping or the pressure may be low. Best to check it when it will not restart. Pressures may be normal at running times. | ||
| Malott442 |
Ummmm, did you check your vent line? Next time you stall, open your gas cap immediately, then try the restart. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Dave: Disconnect the connector that goes from the CPS and do it several times (disconnect/reconnect) to clean any crud that may be on the male/female pins. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sounds electrical for sure---the ignition switches are always likely suspects,as well as sidestand switch. And do a onceover while it is running to see if something is getting hot --- sounds like some circuit is getting hot,shutting down, then cooling enough to work. But check fuel tank vent as suggested. | ||
| Ducxl |
the dreaded ignition switch.Mine red wire was all burnt/discolored and i'd have to jiggle the switch in order to obtain ignition.Got a matching keyed new switch from HD.  You fuel filter is available at any autoparts store cheap.It's a Purolator#F-29160.I change out every three years (Message edited by ducxl on May 08, 2011) | ||
| Mebuellx1 |
Making progress everyone: After checking connections again and replacing the fuel filter and checking vent line, I got brave and took it out once again. It died 12 miles from home BUT, this time it started up but it ran wicked rough like only one cylinder was firing. Shut it off, got it picked up and tested ignition coil on computer. Only #2 coil was working. Tested resistance of primary coil and it was 1.4ohms (normal is 0.5-0.8)and secondary coil was a whopping 11.8kohms (normal is 5-7.5kohms) I think she finally pooched out enough to only have enough juice for one cylinder. Now I can only hope that this has been my intermittent issue all along and just finally got worse and showed it's face. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Throw a new set of plugs in there too. | ||
| Bluebueller |
reviving this post - I'm having similar issues on my '99 M2. cutting out, then wont restart. swear I heard something fry too. any way - did the ignition coil solve your problem? mine died after a 20 mile ride, fortunately with enuff throttle I seemed to coax it to stay on and made it home. next ride I went 1/4 mile, it chugged out, then no restart. will see tomorrow morning if it restarts, otherwise Im pushing it a 1/4 mile. the gauges still had power, it turned over fine till I started to kill the battery (brand new HD batter) it just didn''t have spark. if not the ignition coil - would a volt regulator cause this issue? ( i did recently install the Y bracket onthe bike and the stock exhaust is back on, and I did scrape away to clean metal on the bracket regulator per instruction for clear grounding of the VR) need some pointers if anyone can |
