| Author | Message | ||
     Biggsammy13 |
2002 M2L I must admit I love my bike but haven't had the funds to pamper her like she deserves. I bought the bike with 12,000 miles and now we're at about 22k. It's now due for the 20k service and when inquiring at HD for the quote, $100 parts(yay) + $700 labor(boo). I've begun to hear this clicking sound while I'm idling and riding - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhgcR-mMWFI - attached audio/video from this morning (yes I know, she is dirty...I like my women like that but not so much my bike - cleaning tips welcome) Basically, I want to know that if I write this $800 check to HD for 20,000mile service, will this fix the clicking problem I hear? Or will it just expose the problem and cost more $$$$ to fix? I would rather invest the $800 in fixing the problem but maybe I'm wrong. thoughts??? anyone know what that sound is...and what it takes to fix it? I'm willing to give it a try if I can. Thanks | ||
| Duceater |
Could be an exhaust leak, if it is you should be able to feel the puffing around the leak. I replaced my exhaust gaskets I didn't put the exhaust back on correctly and heard a similar sound until it was tightened up. Also, it looks like your primary chain view cover (whatever its called) is on upside-down. On that note, have you checked that the tension on that is correct? It could be slapping around if your tensioner is broken or too loose. In regards to the service. I wouldn't pay it unless you're not mechanically inclined, or just don't want to do it. If you get a FSM, it will tell you everything you need to know. | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
Thanks Duceater! I did notice the tail end of my V&H can has fallen into the can itself (it angles the exhaust away from the tire)...and is probably bouncing around in there. I'll try to fix that this evening. I'll pull the chain viewer off to take a look at the tension (never adjusted it myself - is it difficult?) and flip it around right side up upon re-installation. I don't mind doing the work - just don't want to mess anything up - need to find that manual. Thanks again. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17200.html | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
Thanks Brother in Buells but I've got a manual - was unsure of where to begin with the diagnosis. I asked around my local buell group and received stator, exhaust or primary chain as the possible culprits. I'm beginning to think primary chain adjustment as the noise is typically not present when the bike is idling from a cold start...and begins to become present all the time after about 2-3 miles of riding and once a cycle is made from 3rd through 5th gears. In my non mechanical head, I picture the chain loosening up a bit when in the higher gears (which may be totally wrong) and that is why the clicking noise persists. I've got to change all of the fluids and tighten the chain...we'll see if that fixes it. | ||
| Jim2 |
I can't listen to the video now but a primary chain that is too loose will make noise against the cover as it hits and acts like a chainsaw but will tighten after a good warm-up usually resulting in not hitting anymore. If it's so loose that it will never tighten up it'll probably wear through the cover and you'll know soon enough with all of your primary fluid leaking out(I think it's possible). Too tight is bad too because it will pre-maturely wear out your bearings in your transmission. This could be part of the clicking you hear. Have you ever heard a crunch however brief or prolonged? I don't mean while your shifting but between shifts. Shifting crunches are somewhat normal. When you replace your primary oil see how much metal is on your magnetic drain plug? | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
Thanks Jim2 - I will definitely check for metal when replacing the primary fluids (have to get a rear stand first...in a few days) Yes I have heard some 'kuh-thunks' when starting the bike in gear...I just pop it in Neutral now and not so much anymore. Also - I noticed from your profile you use Royal purple 20-50. Do you use that in both holes or the ATF in the primary? Thanks. | ||
| Jim2 |
I need to update my profile. I stopped using Royal purple. Not because it isn't a fantastic product, it is. I just can't stand replacing what I burn and leak with something that costs that much. When I replaced my clutch with an Energy One Clutch I started using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in the primary. Works great! I use Mobile-1 V-twin 20W-50 for main oil. We should all be using Amsoil though. To jack bike up take bolts out of passenger pegs and flip the pegs upside down. Now use a hydrolic floor jack or bottle jack and place under rear shock mount point. With capable helper holding bike straight up and down, jack up and then place jack stands under the flipped pegs. This provides a nice level and stable platform. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Yeah, what they said... ...but if it turns out to not be an exhaust leak, I had a similar noise, sounded something like a rod knock, but turned out to be the nut on the primary side of the crank shaft had come loose. I paid the dealer too much to diagnose that. You'd need to pull the primary cover off for that, so definitely check for the exhaust leak first. (Message edited by littlebuggles on May 06, 2011) | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
clicking noise resolved...hopefully - far too little engine oil in the primary - changed the fluids to RP 20-50 and cruised for a while yesterday - no clicking! Even the $10 ticket for no mirrors couldn't fade my smile - thanks officer! now back to the buell.....  | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
I've got a weird clicking sound that sounds a lot like the sound in the video, but none of the things mentioned about resolved my issue. An ol biker buddy of mine told me to use a cut off broom stick to pin point where the ticking is coming from. The ticking sound is coming from behind the gear case cover around the oil filter hosing and above the timing cover. Looking in the service manual I see that its a bunch of cam gears and stuff... Can anyone give me an idea what could be ticking in there so I have an idea what to do about it? Thanks | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Shouldn't really hear much noise from the cam chest. How many miles on the bike? Starting simple - Could maybe be the timing cup (pats book calls it the "trigger rotor" pn# 32402-83), those can crack and break, if it's cracked it would still run but might make contact with the pick-ups and tick or click. Do you have a service manual? Except for the timing position you could do this with just the exploded view from the parts book. Just mark the timing position before you remove the timing assembly to access the timing rotor, and you can easily return it to your starting point if it turns out to be a cracked rotor... A.S.B. sells a more robust replacement rotor, or you can get the stock part from the Sportster parts bin to get it going again. You can drill out the rivets and replace them with a polished self tapping screw kit from the HD general parts bin, I think it comes with the drill bit for removing the rivets too. A little more worrisome - Maybe abnormal oil pump drive gear wear (some of our bikes wear these out, hence the bronze oil pump gear upgrade part). You can check the oil pump drive gear by pulling the oil pump and looking up and rotating the motor by hand to see if you find excessive gear wear, or if you plan to pull the cam cover you can check it then. Or to open the cam chest up you'd need to go through the timer cover anyway, so that's a good place to start. For odd things that happen, someone documented once here where they had the square key shear off, where it holds the pinion gear, I don't know that it would mack much besides crunching noises there though. You can carefully remove the cam chest cover without taking the rocker boxes off. Just gently, carefully push gears back in the chest (use a longish standard screwdriver) as you pull the cover off a little at a time. Make sure you remove the screw from the timing cup or you will pull the cam gear set out with the cover and have to reset your cam gears and that's just more work. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Thank You for the insight Littlebuggles. She has got 30,405 miles on her... I've got a feeling by the sound of the ticking and its location it's going to be that oil pump drive gear. It might the trigger rotor. Yes, I do have a service and a part's manual | ||
| Littlebuggles |
You're welcome, with the manuals you should be good to go then, they make it fairly easy actually. I hope it's the little stuff, that's always better. Cam cover needs to come off to do the oil pump drive gear. It lives just under the pinion gear. I took a picture of the cams before I put it all back together when I had the cover off, it came in handy since looking at the photo I was able to see I had the main gear off by one tooth (couldn't tell when looking at the bike due to my angle). I pulled the drive gear/cam assy out on accident, should have removed that rotor from the cover... | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Well my 01 M2 timing cover is no longer a virgin after ten years. I drilled out the pop rivets yesterday and got down to the trigger rotor to find it in good shape. I used a couple 10-16x3/4 self taping metal screws to replace the pop rivets, I got from Lowes. They seemed longer then needed but were the only ones they had that would thread into the pop rivet hole. I guess my next step will be to pull the oil pump to see if I can tell if there is any excessive gear wear. I'm saving pulling the cam cover off for a last resort. I'm almost sure the problem is going to be inside there, but until I can arrange a place to dig into her that far, I don't want to open her up until I can put her back together since I don't have a garage to do this work in. I'm assuming its going to take awhile to get the right replacement parts to fix her. |
