| Author | Message | ||
     Lemonchili_x1 |
Hey folks... I know, I've been neglectful and haven't been around the Old School section for some time  ... but would it make up for it if I said I've been riding to work more often in my new job and the X1 has been getting a good work out? As always it's a great bike for urban assault duties with an incredible grin factor  Riding it more has however highlighted that the front brake is not performing. It was feeling a bit squishy at the lever again but I was sure there was no air in the system so I unbolted the caliper and had a look and found 2 of the pistons were sticking a little. There was quite a bit of buildup of dirt and brake dust around all the pistons. I gave it a good clean with brake cleaner and a toothbrush and cycled the pistons in and out a few times and it was back to working well again. 500 or so miles later and it's feeling squishy and the lever comes a bit too close too the bar. I'm assuming it's time for a caliper rebuild? It's not something I've done before, are any special tools required? I'm assuming the main things will be a manual(got it), something to hold the caliper in (bench vice with soft jaws?), spotlessly clean work space and patience... not so sure about that last one, hehehe  Will I need any other parts on top of what's in the rebuild kit? I'll be in California at the end of May (woohoo!) so thought I'd pick up a rebuild kit from American Sport Bike then  cheers, chili | ||
| Two_seasons |
If you have some serious mileage on the bike, front brake caliper may need a rebuild. While you have the caliper off, clean it real good. I'd then drain the DOT4, replace the pads and bleed it. See what that yields for you. May be all you need. | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 on the fluid change! Also try this....Pump up the pressure so its as firm as you can get it. Then hold the lever as close to the bar as you can and tie with string or a zip tie and leave it all night and then in the morning release it and it should come back and feel rock hard if it doesn't. For sure flush the fluid. | ||
| Ratbuell |
1. if you're going to tie off the lever overnight, uncork the master cylinder lid so the bubbles in the line are free to come to the top (i.e. no pressure in the line). MARK THE LID SO YOU DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN IT BACK UP BEFORE YOU RIDE AGAIN. 2. Caliper rebuild isn't rocket science. Clean workspace, there are special piston removal pliers but you can get them out without the tool. Just don't scratch the pistons, and LUBE the new seals with brake fluid before you assemble anything, it keeps them from sticking. 3. After the rebuild, work the brake a few times before you ride. It will have NO lever at first and that's a good way to end up in the ditch at the end of your driveway. Or so I've heard. heheh. | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Thanks guys Thinking about it, it probably is due for fresh fluid, it'd be 2 years since I changed the rotor/pads and I flushed the fluid then. I will give it a good clean and fluid change, but I'll get a rebuild kit in case it does the same thing after another 500 miles. 3. After the rebuild, work the brake a few times before you ride. It will have NO lever at first and that's a good way to end up in the ditch at the end of your driveway. Or so I've heard. heheh. Hehehe, noted! | ||
| Oldog |
Chili look in the kv archives I did one as part of a service one year ( a few ago ) check the rebuild parts kit for ALL parts there are 2 tiny orings that seal the cross passages I got one with out them, the rest is simple, bleeding the air out is a PITA, before you do the rebuild try changing the fluid and cleaning the pistons with a cotton string soaked in brake cleaner if the lines and all other parts are original with out an annual change of brake fluid consider a rebuild of the system the fsm said over haul every 4 years, per Buellistics' suggestion I change the fluid every year it seems to work the old fluid is usualy beer colored... | ||
| Jramsey |
Reverse bleed,takes about 15 seconds, no lever pumping involved. |
