| Author | Message | ||
     Pmaskale |
Two weeks ago I purchased a 2001 X1 w/ 3300k for $3300. I was hooked the moment I slipped the clutch for the first time during the test ride. Every time I get off it I am grinning from ear to ear, and usually grunting like Tim the Tool Man. My bad news: Today I got a low fuel light; pulled into the gas station and filled up. Afterward, the bike wouldn't start, and I couldn't push start it. I was able to jump start it, but afterward the check engine light came on. On the way home the speedo died, then the tach, then the headlight, then the engine. Luckily the engine died at 30mph with my drive way in sight. Before I bought it I remember seeing a post with the exact symptoms, but I can't find it again. Can anyone help shed some light on this problem(or point me to the post). I need to get this baby running again. (also does anyone have an e-copy of the service manual) Thanks | ||
| Azrael_cervale |
Ive seen a lot of posts about electrical problem traced back to either the battery or Ignition switch. If you can turn it on you can read the diagnostic code. Copied from a post by Davo.. "In order to retrieve trouble codes w/o software: Get a short piece of 18 ga. wire about 12” long with two small insulated alligator clips. The manual uses part number 72191-94 (two of them) as end connectors instead of the alligator clips. Go to the data link connector that is located on the left side just under the edge of the seat. Remove the rubber insert. There are four pins inside. Looking at the connector with the locking hasp pointed down. The pin orientation is such that pin # 1 and pin #2 are both on your left. See below: #2 #3 #1 #4 lock With the key and ignition off, connect pin #1 and pin #2 with the home made jumper. Make sure you do not touch the other pins! Then turn the key and the ignition on. Do not start the bike. The engine light should start to flash: If it flashes many times (about 10 or 11, to fast to count for me) very fast, then there are NO trouble codes. Otherwise there will be 6 quick flashes at 3 per second and this is an intermission. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your first digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your second digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Start back at intermission of 6 flashes…………..and so on…….. This will continue until you turn off the ignition and the key and remove the jumper. If you remove the jumper without turning off the ignition the engine light will continue to cycle trouble codes. If you have a trouble code and then you correct the problem that created the code. The bike will automatically clear the codes after 50 start and run sessions of at least 30 seconds or more. Until then the code will remain even if the problem is fixed. Trouble code list: 11-TPS 13- O2 sensor 14-ET (engine temp) 15-air intake temp 16-battery voltage 21-exhaust actuator 23-front injector 24-front coil 25-rear coil 32-rear injector 33-fuel pump 35-tach 36-fan 44-bank angle sensor 52, 53, 54, 55- ECM failure 56-cam sync. Failure" | ||
| Pmaskale |
Thanks for the quick help. That is a great procedure to put in my Library. As far as I know my Ign switch seems to work perfectly, and the battery seems fine. I was able to jump the bike twice, so that tells me Ign is OK. It really seems like a charging problem; the way the electric systems slowly went bye bye on the last ride. The codes I pulled w/ that procedure are shown below. They all could be correlated to low voltage(i.e. everything running off a dead battery that wasn't receiving any help from the engine). By the sound of the bike the Inject/fuel pmp/Ign was really struggling that last mile. 16-battery voltage 32-rear injector 23-front injector I am charging the battery now, and will try to get it running and check some voltages tomorrow. Does anyone know if I can pull that right side cover off to expose the stator, and wiring? Will it leak any oil if I pull it? Any input is welcome. Thanks for reading this. | ||
| Serialk |
Same thing happened to me... I would take a look at your continuity of the stator Same symptoms. My Problem was a magnet from my rotor got loose and said hello to my stator and graphite chunks everywhere. -Charge your battery full -follow your stator wire that is coming from the back of your primary. it should be under your cam cover. unplug it from your regulator. Turn your ignition to OFF -stick one lead from your multimeter into one if the outlets in your plug coming from the stator -the other lead onto a suitable ground -There should be NO continuity between either stator socket - If there is. well then there is your problem. If all is good then your stator is fine and now its time to check the rest of your charging system. I didnt have to do this test. I took the drain plug out of my primary and it looked like a wire brush... | ||
| Jramsey |
>>Does anyone know if I can pull that right side cover off to expose the stator....... The right side case is the cam case the stator is on the left(primary)side. | ||
| Gowindward |
There are easier ways to check the stator than pulling the cover. Check the stator for continuity to ground via the plug going to the voltage regulator. If the stator is okay then you will have NO continuity to ground. The FSM has a great charging system trouble shooting section to follow. | ||
| Snowbees |
did it run too low on fuel and upset the AFV ? you need to get ecmspy and a cable, a must have with an x1 | ||
| Britchri10 |
Mine did the same thing. End result: New rotor & stator. before changing anything, check as above. Also, check your grounds (Front & rear) X1's do odd things when they have bad grounding. Good luck! Chris C | ||
| Blks1l |
Sounds like what happened to mine. It was not charging, and the battery just ran down to below a point it would not opertate the electronics, mine was a bad voltage regulator, an easy check as well. | ||
| Williep13 |
Easiest way check voltage system is to check battery voltage before starting and then check battery voltage after. If it didn't go up after starting then you have a problem then go into all the other high speed checks. | ||
| Pmaskale |
First I would like to say thanks for all the quick advice. It really helped out. Well I finally got some time to poke around the regulator with the multi-meter. I have about 24-30 VAC from the stator. The regulator has a good ground, but no VDC on the output. Does anyone know if I can use a Sportster regulator, and if so what years are the same as my 01 X1? I don't mind splicing the connectors if need be. Also, does anone have an electronic copy of the service manual? I would love to take a look at it. |
