Author |
Message |
Bsanorton
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 07:35 am: |
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Picked up an 2000 X1. Have some air cleaner assemblies as shown below. My breathers were routed outside of the air intake tract. What do I need to consider to make the below work?
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Kalali
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:21 am: |
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Aside from gaskets and necessary hardware, just need to figure out a method for mounting the Intake Air Temperature sensor. May be its the picture but the shock looks different from stock. Do you know what it is? Nice X1. |
Desertfox
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:23 am: |
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That shock, if I'm not mistaken, is an original Showa with the patched up "fix". It prevents a failed shock from dragging on the ground. |
Kalali
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:28 am: |
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I see. I remember reading about the 'interim" fix. I wonder if he could still get it replaced under the recall with the "fix". |
Rlgiv
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 11:50 am: |
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Hard to tell from this side but it looks like the showa I have on my s3. Does not have an external oil resevoir. I put it on last year and its already bad. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 12:53 pm: |
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The reservoir is peeking out between the header and the chin fairing. |
Simond
| Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 07:29 pm: |
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That is the early Showa. I got mine replaced FOC a few years ago but you have the SRP kit fitted so they are not obliged to change it as the kit will stop the whole thing collapsing in the event of failure. Ride it until it leaks then replace with a decent aftermarket shock. Penske, Works or AST(the best quality option IMO). The back plate of the carbon race filter has a few extra holes in it already but none look big enough for the inlet sensor. I guess the two at the bottom were for the breathers - you can mount the inlet sensor where the top plug is but it might need opening up a little. The Forcewinder is a better bet (if you can live with the looks) because the carbon filters don't seal very well around the edge. I can't see if it has a mount for the inlet sensor - could be tricky if not. Best bet is to get a NRHS back plate to go with your carbon filter cover - it retains the looks of the Buell race cover and the back plate has a recess to seal properly against the filter. |
Snowbees
| Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 03:42 am: |
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I have my intake sensor mounted behind the headlight, with no problems. |
Lager
| Posted on Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 07:16 pm: |
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Snowbees has a good point or idea? Im guessing the IAT really dosent have to be placed in the intake track after all. Im in the Auto business, cant tell you how many times Ive seen IAT sensors zip tied somewhere after the owner made his own cold air intake for their car. Seems to work ok, should on a Buell also. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 10:46 am: |
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The computer has to know the intake temp so that it can calculate air density and therefore how much air it's sucking in. You don't have to cram the sensor down the throat of the intake but some of the intake air should go past it. remember that these beasties don't have a mass-flow air sensor. They have to calculate the values from: Throttle position sensor RPM of engine Air temperature Pretty cool that it works at all really BTW, I did notice that my X1 ran better when I put the sensor into the back of my forcewinder instead of ziptied near the engine. Behind the headlight is a lot smarter than "somewhere near the engine" |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 11:18 am: |
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kind of redundant but,i'm still on the lookout regarding X1 intake air options. I'm considering gluing the sucker shut.
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Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 12:14 pm: |
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Just give up. My stocker let in sand and gravel! If it worked OK, I would have left it in place. I think one of the largest issues with the stock X1 intake is that the engine moves but the box is screwed to the frame. There is that rubber thing around the intake but mine still flapped like a bird wing at around 1300 RPM. I had thought that perhaps a third screw added to the lower right corner would help keep the evil out but in the end decided that continuing to fight the OEM box was a waste of time. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 12:17 pm: |
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Oh one more thing: I never really like the looks of the forcewinder. I chose it because the oval "spam can" hit me square in the kneecap when I tried sitting on a bike so equipped. (I'm 6'3") |
Lander_x1
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 10:28 am: |
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My "home made"airbox cover with the forcewinder
(Message edited by lander_x1 on February 28, 2011) |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 01:29 pm: |
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I used the CF Ham Can on my S3T. Like others mentioned, my air intake temp sensor is zip tied to the frame near the upper steering bearing. Haven't had any problems with this. I needed to space the back plate out from the throttle body so the back plate would clear the frame. I used three spacer rings and gaskets from HD. I also used an orifice ring from the HD SE air cleaner on the filter side of the backplate. If interested, I have the HD part numbers at home and can post tonight. The other thing I did was to remove the support for the stock airbox that was cast as part of the front engine mount. I think the X1 uses the same part. I took the mount off the front of the engine, cut the appendage off with a hack saw, then rounded, smoothed and polished with a file and emory cloth. You mentioned that you already have a solution for the breathers. If you don't you need to consider those. My stock S3T airbox was a problem to keep sealed similar to ducxl's picture. Always seemed to have some gritty material sitting in there. Barry |
Kalali
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 01:48 pm: |
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"My "home made"airbox cover with the forcewinder" That's very creative. Did you modify the stock cover or built the thing from scratch? If stock, how did you make it so glossy? |
Snowbees
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 02:21 pm: |
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My IAT sensor was zip tied near the engine , since being moved to behind the headlight/fairing (best place to get ambient air temp) the AFV dropped by 6%. I did once try putting it in direct inlet venturi airflow but the bike ran like crap. Landerx1, excellent job on the cover. |
Lander_x1
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 04:23 pm: |
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Kalai It's stock , the glossy it's just paint, as the rest of the bike, i used a sandpaper to take off the stock look before painting "Landerx1, excellent job on the cover" thanks snowbees, and i have the IAT zipped on the left, downside the airscoop (Message edited by lander_x1 on February 28, 2011) |
Zenbiker
| Posted on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 10:03 pm: |
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Good find Norton, you scored an authentic Buell Race Kit Intake as well as a Force intake. The Force may be kinder to your right knee, but the Race Kit will produce better results. Unfortunately, the crappy back plate (thin sheet aluminum) will not allow a real good seal with the air cleaner element without a lot of attention paid to the set up. I run the same set up on one of my S2s. The cruel twist of fate, is that the aftermarket backing plates will not fit the Race Kit cover (cover bolt pattern is different). You can mod your X1 intake (as shown in the thread (nice job Lander)) or take it off and buy the inserts for the bottom of the tank to give it a 'finished' look. Either way, your choice, but nice find, good luck. |
Bsanorton
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2011 - 12:54 pm: |
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Barry if you have those part #'s please let me know. Zenbiker - now I know why there is a little spring hanging & attached to the CF cover & I see a little hole in the backplate. I guess this is to help with the seal |