| Author | Message | ||
     Maxbuell |
Thinking I'am going to pull cam cover to cut and paint. Is it a big job ? Bike has over 15K, want to look at oil drive gear as well. bit scared about exhaust removal as well.. | ||
| Spiderman |
Step 1. BUY A MANUAL! It is worth it's weight in oil! Other than that it is an involved process. You will need to remove the gas tank, the exhaust then the rockers. If you do not remove the rockers there will be too much spring pressure on the cams. And once you remove the cam cover that spring pressure is only supported on one side of the case and that will cause a torsional load on the case, which is not designed to handle such a load. | ||
| Tutte |
It was a not so easy to remove the cam cover and work at the cam cover but the result was great.Cam cover and the race optic header give a nice race look .   | ||
| Midnight_rider |
gooood lookin' job | ||
| Fahren |
Cam cover cutting will also allow you to re-route your oil lines out from under the bike, if you are concerned about that sort of thing. There's a good, photo-illustrated how-to on the UK Buell site, UKBEG.com | ||
| Foximus |
I love the trimmed down cam cover look, but i just couldnt justify it when i had it off, as the damn s1 headers just cover it all up anyway... | ||
| Hootowl |
Those are some mighty purdy headers you got there. | ||
| Buellish |
Fahren,where on UKBEG.com?I looked in the how to section. | ||
| Fasted |
http://ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=14 | ||
| Buellish |
Thanks Fasted | ||
| Fahren |
Sorry - I'm slow tonight! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I didn't re-route any oil lines, didn't even consider that option. I also didn't remove the rocker boxes, left everything under load and just carefully slid the cover off using a screwdriver to gently push cams back up against the engine case. Don't know if this method will have any long term adverse effects on the bushings, but it was suggested to me by a HD mechanic (take that for what it's worth to you). Trimmed a little more than a pound from the cover. I think it turned out nice and was a fun project. There is a specific torque procedure for the hardware. I believe that should be available in the S1 PDF here on the site, as well as a full service manual. Exhaust removal is nothing to stress too much about, just be gentle with those header studs and reassembly carefully to avoid putting load on those things.  close-up  | ||
| Foximus |
ah that one is even better looking. I almost thought it was an XB for a minute. Note: The author of the above statement is in no way admitting or suggesting that XB's are better looking than Tubers. | ||
| Akbuell |
Plus 1 on Spidy's comment about the service manual. The most important tool in the tool box. And the process is not brain surgery, but it is involved. And the procedure can be short-cut, by removing the front rocker box, then rotating the crank so the rear cyl is at top dead center, taking pressure off the cams. All of the following is my experience with an X-1, YMMV. The front rocker box will tell the story. If the gasket between the rocker box and head are paper, I would take both off and replace them with the new metal ones. I'm already in there, and will not have to worry about leaks in the future. Since I have the cam cover off, I would replace the oil pump drive gear with the updated one. No sense pulling the cover twice. And the crankshaft holding tool (see Al at American Sport Bike) makes the job simple. Worth every penny. Finally, don't freak out if the engine sounds terrible on start up after reassembly. The lifters have probably bled down, giving excess valve clearance. A gentle lap or two around the block should solve the problem. Been there, done that. Hope this helps/makes sense, Dave | ||
| Maxbuell |
Tutte very nice work as well as littlebuggles. Thanks for the info. I do have a manual just getting a hands on version (sometimes a bit different). Akbuell great info thanks all.. |
