| Author | Message | ||
     Thundermutt |
looking for the easy way out.like some of the other guys went to take off in first from a light and the bike would not go into gear.So i pulled the primary cover off and the clutch out to replace the main crank seal and found part of the adjuster shoe in the bottom of the case.Should i pull the tranny and check for backed out pins or put it all back together and see if it was the part of the shoe. It shifts fine in all other gears. its in a 97 s-1 let me know what some of you pros think | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you identified all the shoe parts and removed them, and a visual inspection of the pins shows them intact, and you can manually put the bike in first and see the transmission input shaft rotate when you turn the back wheel on a stand, I'd button it back up and ride. If not, tuber trannies are a breeze to pull. If you are far enough in to get at the crank seal, you are literally about 5 bolts from having the tranny on your bench, and you can then inspect your 5 gear drive assembly gear bearings (another chronic tuber problem area). | ||
| Thundermutt |
Thanks for the info. What pins are they talking about ? Will i have to pull the tranny to see them if so no big deal i have it all torn down for the other work. | ||
| Disturbedvn |
If you want a great price on a Baker 5 or 6 speed PM me and i will get you a price. Brand new. ( im a dealer for them ) | ||
| Slayer5690 |
Disturbed I was considering a baker smooth shift kit for my X1. Can you also get those for a great price? | ||
| Lager |
I just repaired a friends sportster that had a similar problem. His would up shift ,but not down shift. His problem was a broken ( what I call the shifter) Claw. This is part of the shifter mechanism that grabs onto the pins on your shift drum. It either pulls the drum upwards or downwards. This drum them moves the shift forks inside the transmission. All this is easily seen once you have the clutch assy removed.Just reattach the shift lever and move it thru it range. Should be readily apparent if the problem is external or internal. While the broken " claw" might have been within the repair capabilities of my old time auto mechanic friend, the adjustment/installation procedures in factory service manual were not.Thats when he called me for help. I was able to get things right for him but there is no reason for HD to build such a sloppy/old time/antique shifting assy in the late 1990's. Its a wonder my 99 X1 shifts as well as it does. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The pins the Bill refers to are on the shift drum. If you have the clutch pack off, just remove the detent plate off the drum and gently tap tap the pins back in place. Make sure you follow the service manual for adjusting the shifter pawl. | ||
| Disturbedvn |
pm's returned slayer5690... I will have to call tomorrow and get back to you with price. | ||
| Sanders |
I have an XL6 and it cured all the tranny problems I had. Worth the cash if you have 2k+ to blow on a tranny. | ||
| Slayer5690 |
Thanks Disturbed, | ||
| Thundermutt |
Thanks for the input guys i'll get to it this weekend and post the results next weekend. | ||
| Sloppy |
+10 for the Baker 5 speed too! Shifts better than my motocross bikes! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Um, correct me if I'm wrong but if he broke a part of his trans, it wouldn't be laying in the primary case anyway, would it? They share fluid...but IIRC (and I haven't had one apart in a long time so I could very well be wrong) they're separated by the trapdoor and shouldn't be able to swap pieces if things break. Hmmm....Baker six in an S2...dammit Disturbed, now you have me thinking....  | ||
| Reepicheep |
since this is old school Buell, I was guessing it was part of his primary tensioner shoe (a common thing to find in pieces in your primary on a tuber  ) | ||
| Thundermutt |
Well good news for me as Reepicheep said it was part of the shoe .I put the bike's Transmission in all it's gear this weekend and it seem to shift just fine. Thanks  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Those old shoes are a disaster waiting to happen! I check all the tubers I see for the updated version. And an S-2 with the Baker---sweet! Put a 26 tooth on the front and it really worked well. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! Great news! | ||
| Thundermutt |
Thanks for your help guys | ||
| Buellistic |
NOTE: These PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTERS were used in EVO SPORTSTERS and BUELLs to 1997 ... In 1997 they were going bad cracking/ breaking and IMHO did so because the PRIMARY CHAINS were being adjusted TOO TIGHT(FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is WRONG on the PRIMARY CHAIN and DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENTS) ... "SO" the factory in stead of saying adjust the primary chain looser(3/4 inch on the tight spot) made a stronger PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTER !!! If the PRIMARY CHAIN has worn DEEP GROVES into the PLASTIC the PRIMARY CHAIN is or has been adjusted TOO TIGHT ... PRIMARY CHAIN and DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class 101 available on request, just PM me and a copy is yours "ASAP" ... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's not a tightness thing. I always ran my X1 sloppy loose (like 5/8" when hot) and I saw it was about to pop when I went in there to replace the primary gasket. (About 30,000 miles on original at that time) I think it's the increased force of engine braking due to higher state of tune and reduced flywheel mass. Again, just a theory. Doesn't matter though. The new one fixes it! |
