| Author | Message | ||
     Nein_collins |
Okay guys..my blue seals came today and so far i've got the tank and the breadbox off...i've pb blasted the bolts and i've run into a small snag. the bolt for the throttle cable bracket (2000 model) and the 2 bolts under the throttle body...are they metric? Also that fancy curved 1/4 allen wrench that American Sport Bike sells, is that absolutely needed? Anyway wish me luck guys...i'm ready for my bike to run right again.. Gray | ||
| Littlebuggles |
The tool from A.S.B. is very helpful... I think others have made do with a ball end allen... Perhaps a local Bueller already has one, have you checked out the NC section on the Storm Fronts? Also remember to loosely assemble and wiggle a bit for best fit as you tighten things up. Some have used some sort of assembly lube to help keep everything co-operating as you put it together. (I didn't need it, but it was cold in my garage so parts were fitting easily anyway). I can mail you a loaner tool, as long as it will be returned. -Mike | ||
| Sloppy |
Don't bother trying to disassemble the throttle body - it is not necessary and very difficult to disassemble. I believe they are indeed metric but the bolts have loctite on them so you'll likely have to heat them in order to remove them. The "Yost"/American Sport Bike intake wrench is very helpful, but you'll NEED an extended length allen bolt wrench to get to the top bolts (forget the little "L" handles, you'll need the LONG "T" handle set). I would remove the injectors (use a heat gun / propane torch on the hold down bolts as they have loctite on them) to make it easy to get to the bolts. I would recommend replacing the intake bolts as well as you'll likely booger them up during removal. Be VERY careful when you thread the bolts back into the head as it is easy to cross thread - I highly recommend a thread chaser kit to clean all the threads (but I am anal retentive so forgive me). Be patient... | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" replaced the ALLEN SCREWS with HEX HEAD BOLTS which made it easier for me to TORQUE THEM, plus SAFETY WIRE THEM ... "YES", "i" had to IMPROVISE with the TOOLS to do this ... "WHY THE SAFETY WIRE", well "i" found the ALLEN SCREWS were not not tight enough on the first seal replacement take apart ... | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Replied to your latest pm, it will be in the mail today. I can include exploded view from my M2 parts book if it would be any help... | ||
| Jack_fe |
i have found it helpful to mark the intake "clocking" before dis assembly, helps with alignment of the air filter assem. when going back together | ||
| Nein_collins |
ok, so far..the easy parts.. removing the tank, intake box, and thats about it. I've improvised and i've gotten 2 intake bolts out and the front 2 loose. Questions 1. Do I absolutely need to remove the injectors and the bracket assembly? I can see where it would be helpful.but I've gotta go get some more allen wrenches. (lost my job 2 weeks ago and on limited funds enjoy buying tools) 2. Does the top motor mount need to be removed...again I see that this would help with some extra room. 3. Anything I need to put on the seals to help sealing? 4. if I remove the injectors then I'm guessing I need to replace seals on those too.. Thanks for all the help so far guys, Mike the tool is in Charlotte, it will be here tomorrow Gray | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Glad it moved quickly! Not an X1 owner, but I had to remove the carb to access the manifold on my M2. Had never considered removing the top motor mount, I certainly didn't need to... | ||
| Bluzm2 |
1. No, removing the injectors isn't mandatory but recommended to replace the O rings. You're already in there, why not? 2. No the top motor mount doesn't need to be removed. It's tight but can be done. 3. Use Sylglide, you can get it at NAPA. Use it on the intake seals and O rings 4. Yes, good idea.. | ||
| Totalnutah |
a light smear of petroleum jelly on the O rings helps to stop them pinching when reassembling  | ||
| Nein_collins |
hmm..I guess one of my bolts was already loose...but either way, the tool does help. here are some pics for your viewing enjoyment  rear cylinder..not too bad  front cylinder..yeah that might need some replacement..lol Now i'm heading to Napa for the sil-glyde and to fastenal to see what i can find for easier to use bolts. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Well I think we are done. Mike thanks for sending the wrench, it helped in the taking stuff off phase, but it didn't help me one bit putting the stuff back together..I ended up going to northern tool and bought a slightly longer standard 1/4 ball end allen wrench. When I got home it took me 5 minutes to put everything together v/s the hour or 2 of struggling like I was before. I did a proper tps reset, reset the afv to 100% and cranked her up and let her warm up and all seemed well. Of course I couldn't just call it quits there (was 10:00 at night and about 40 degrees) I put my helmet on and rode it around the block. At 100%afv it ran great and had all the power i've been missing for a while (i've had to run it at 140%, 100% would choke off when I gave it throttle). Anyway its raining today, so tomorrow i'll put some miles on it and report my findings. Thanks for the help guys! Gray | ||
| Kalali |
Great job and thanks for sharing the process and the tips. I would have not expected a damaged seal on one cylinder cause the AFV to go as high as 140%. | ||
| Nein_collins |
Well we def. have a whiskey tango foxtrot moment.... At 100% afv it ran great, better than ever..rode it for a good 20-30 minutes...then I got on the highway, which is where the majority of my problems have come from...up to 80 mph and bam, hit the off ramp and slow up to the light and we are running poor again, get it home hook it up to ecm spy and hey!..150% afv again....shit guys, wtf? it runs at great at 100% though so we have a victory there, still can't ride the damn thing on the highway which is what I need it for... what next fellas? | ||
| Akbuell |
Showing any trouble codes? If not, and no exhaust leaks, try resetting the AFV back to 100%, and try cruising the highway at a steady 60ish MPH for 20 mins or so and see if the bikes computer "learns" the new setting. The high AFV generally means an intake leak (intake seals are probably out), so there is the throttle body/manifold junction, injector/manifold seals, or a bad 02 sensor. They can get wonky and not throw a code. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Britchri10 |
My vote would be for a bad 02 sensor. Check the wiring on it first. If nothing obvious shows consider pulling the existing sensor & replacing it w/a new one. (DAMHIK) Chris C | ||
| Ratbuell |
And one thing I learned on O2 sensors working with my turbocars...they HATE getting carb cleaner or penetrating oil or really any kind of chemical on them. If you hose it down with one...you hosed it. Buy a new sensor. On my turbocars, they won't throw a code...but driving with the MT2500 scanner hooked up and displaying live data, it just gets "stuck" on stoich and doesn't read anything. Depending on position in the exhaust and what chemical was on it...I suppose one could get stuck on rich or lean just as easily as on stoich. | ||
| Kalali |
My bet would also be on the O2 sensor except they normally throw a code. That been said, you may want to try turning the sensor off (using ECMSPY) and do the closed loop routine and see how the bike runs. The other thing I would try as a separate experiment is "locking" the AFV at 100% (by setting the min and max at 100). Between these two experiments you should be able to isolate the root cause a bit more. Good luck and keep us posted. | ||
| Nein_collins |
I've also thought about checking with some of my car friends to see if they have a wideband they would let me borrow...it would show me exactly where i'm leaning out. I picked up a new o2 sensor today. I'm wondering if its also my fuel map..it only did this at highway speeds that I know of...I rode it a good 30-40 minutes before the highway run and I felt no change. I won't be able to do anything though for a few days..my fiance is in the looney bin and i've got full daddy duty over my little one, and well...yeah I don't have anyone to come babysit for the 4 year old hellion that has taken over the house. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Your plugs will tell you if the O2 sensor is bad. 150% AFV means the sensor is saying you're way too lean. My guess is you'll find that your plugs show a rich condition. If that's the case just replace the sensor, reset AFV, and go ride the piss out of that thing. btw, I just diagnosed and repaired this exact problem on a friend's 2000 X1. The bike wasn't showing a check engine light, but ECMSpy showed a historic "O2 sensor always lean". The old O2 sensor I pulled out rattled when I shook it. (Message edited by pkforbes87 on December 02, 2010) | ||
| Nein_collins |
oh yeah, just pulled the plugs and they were BLACK. I'll hook it up to ecmspy tonight when my little one goes to bed and check it out. I wanna ride it with no o2 first before I replace it, just to read the plugs and see what they have to say..sheesh...its been one thing after another with this darn bike..and the p.o. said he had no problems with it at all.... | ||
| Nein_collins |
update time... I hooked the X1 up to ecmspy today and set the afv to 100% and turned the O2 and requisite trouble code off and rode the crap out of it..got on the highway and up to a high speed (in 35 degree weather) back home and read the plugs....and they were perfect...no lean, no rich...so, tomorrow i'll go get the required 22mm stuff and switch out O2 sensors. Hopefully with that, problem will be solved. I also think I found the source of my cutting out problem...a non fuel injection rated fuel filter installed reversed flow(I know...I swear I thought I had it right) which I fixed that with a new fi rated one from napa with the seal change out. Anyway, I'll post up one more update once I get the O2 in and checked out....hopefully that's all and I can start riding this thing to work again.. Thanks everyone for the help! Gray | ||
| Firemanjim |
Nein, it means somewhere in the "learned fuel area' you are running 50% lean and the ecm is adding 50% more fuel to make up for it---course the darn thing adds 50% more everywhere. X-1's have a very small area of "learned fuel". If you want to leave your O2 sensor turned off you can do that in ecmspy,only downside is if you ride where there is a big change in elevation and it won't compensate. Try a new sensor and see what happens.Best bet is get it on a dyno to see where that spot is and adjust accordingly. You can always look at your fuel tables and see if you have a glaring spot in learned fuel on rear---as it learns on the rear--- that is causing it,seen a couple oddities where one cell was way out from its neighbors. |
