| Author | Message | ||
     Scott_in_nh |
I purchased my 99 S3 in Dec. 2005 with under 5K miles on it and it now has 21-22K. I can only assume that it did not have new seals installed in the first 5K and I have never replaced them. I was just at the dragstrip 2 weeks ago and it runs very well. So, should I replace them before spring just because or wait until they actually need to be replaced? (Message edited by scott_in_nh on November 18, 2010) | ||
| Phelan |
Where's some Nike's when you need 'em? Just do it. | ||
| Buellistic |
Every 2 years or 24K, have a FAN every 4 years or 48K miles ... HEAT KILLS THESE SEALS and LEAN BURNS HOLES IN PISTONS !!! | ||
| Blks1l |
My 97 S1 has 20,000 miles and the carb hasn't been off yet. | ||
| Kalali |
In my opinion if your plugs look good, idle is steady without hanging and the AFV stays at ~100% consistently I would leave it alone. I just say it because you may do more damage by just getting in there and remove all the pieces out of way to get the seals changed. Well, may be this is my lazy way of reasoning in putting it off until it is really needed. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Change them. Been there done that. | ||
| 5liter |
Mine had 49,000 or there abouts. The only reason they got changed was the replacement of the front head due to isolator bolt failure. It was running fine with no issues. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Add the "spray test" to your maintenance checklist. Long as it passes...leave it be. If it ain't broke... | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
What is the best thing to use to do the "spray test"? | ||
| Kalali |
I use propane. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Carb or brake cleaner works too. Just about anything aerosol will do it though, the propellant is usually enough to make the bike hiccup if it has a leak. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
So, the spray that is "inhaled" past the leaking seal is burned and that affects the way it runs? I appreciate the information. I had been thinking that a viscous fluid like motor oil might temporarily seal the leak and it would temporarily run better. Sounds like I had it backwards. | ||
| Sloppy |
I like to use wd40. Spray at the at intake seals on the left side during idle and see if the idle changes. If it does, then you know you have a leak. If not, then leave the intake seals on - it's not a fun job to replace them  WD40 does a nice job of making the engine look nice as well  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Exactly. The change in intake charge (basically you are adding more "mixture" to the intake that the engine isn't metering through the carb/EFI system) is what makes the bike hiccup. Generally, it'll cough, and if the leak is really bad it'll stall it out. I tend to shy away from WD40 because it leaves a residue that attracts dirt. Carb and brake cleaners simply evaporate. WD also sucks as a garage lube...I use BG's InForce. I've pulled brake calipers off 78 Dodge vans with that stuff without breaking bolts!! WD, I keep in the house for lubing sticky window sashes and squeaky drawers... | ||
| Sloppy |
That residue is "mineral oil" which I like since it is safe to use on rubber gaskets. Other penetrating oils can use solvents that will destroy certain rubbers... silicone sprays are deadly on them! So I'm sure other stuff works better, it may not be as safe. Caveat emptor... | ||
| Kalali |
On a related note, those of you who have installed the seals "properly", how much of the intake neck is shown once you slide the neck into the head and bolt things up? Mine is slightly uneven with one side showing about 1/8" and a little more on the other side. Is is supposed to be fully flushed? Doesn't seem to change much with cold or warm engine and has passed the spray test. | ||
| Buellboiler |
Wouldn't ether (starting fluid) work better than WD-40 since it leaves no residue and burns better? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Installed depth can vary; the "squish" isn't always exactly the same, and truth be told...sometimes the cylinders are offset slightly or the intake is seated "crooked" in the vee. Neither of which will un-seal it or cause it to be a non-running engine...but it does happen. |
