| Author | Message | ||
     Huebman |
Okay, so this the first winter of Buell (or any bike) ownership for me. I was wondering what steps I need to take to make sure that when riding season is back, my bike will be ready to go. The bike will be stored in my garage, and I live in Indiana, so weather doesn't get horrible for too long. Would it be beneficial to start the bike and let it run for a while every week (maybe cruise around the block)? If I do this, would I need to do much to winterize it? Would I be better off pulling the battery, putting stabilizer in my tank and just letting it sit? Any input would be helpful...I just want to make sure I don't have a hassle on my hands in the spring when its time to get back out and ride. Thanks! | ||
| Fasted |
battery tender at all times. if you start it, ride it to get up to normal temp to evap any condensation. CONSIDER HEATED GEAR. i ride (for pleasure) year round here in bloomington. there is usually a sunny, yet cold day that beckons to me at least once every month during the winter (usually more often than that). the idea of putting the bike up and not riding for 3 or 4 months is repugnant to me. it is fun to be out when very few others are, and it makes you feel good in the winter as an antidote to cabin fever.  , | ||
| Andymnelson |
I live in MN, likely with longer and colder, more snowy/salty winters than you. All I do is fill the tank, add some Sta-bil and run it a bit to get the Sta-bil in the lines etc. Then I throw a battery tender on 'em and park 'em. Honestly, last year I rode into December, and fired em up again in early April....and I didn't do a darned thing to winterize them. Everything was just fine in the Spring. | ||
| Andymnelson |
...and there is nothing repugnant about not riding for 3-4 months- that's when the snowboards and snowmobiles come out!  | ||
| Huebman |
Great thanks for the info. Any thoughts on a good battery tender? Any specific make model that works better for Buell? | ||
| Fasted |
get the cheap-ass bt jr. unless you have multiple vehicles. $20-$40 depending on source, sales prices, etc. andy, i am too far south for snowmobiles and boarding. winter here is just a nuisance | ||
| Andymnelson |
Agreed on the tender. Haha yeah, I LOVE MN! Beautiful summers, Fall and Spring are just perfect, and snow to play in during Winter!  | ||
| Huebman |
Awesome, thanks! I just ordered one for $25 free shipping. Yeah winters in southern Indiana are a mess. I went to school at IU so I know first had the Bloomington winters. Not enough snow to have fun in, but still to cold and wet to do much. If you enjoy snowmobiling (and I do), MN is awesome in the winter. As long as you aren't afraid of a little cold. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Black and decker smart float charger has worked well for me for the last four years. It was around $20-25 at the Walmart when I got it, if you're on a budget. I need to get another for the XB, it's battery seems to be getting tired and doesn't crank so well when the temp is in the low 40's and upper 30's (frost on the seat weather). I also use sta-bil if I know it's gonna sit a while, and/or take the winer to use up a tank of fuel. | ||
| Fahren |
The air-cooled V-Twin LOVES cold air! You will, too. Such a great feeling to be able to take the bike out for a ride on clear, sunny winter days! Consider rinsing the bike off with a regular hose if there is salt on the roads, though. I'd do it with the bike still warm, so most of the water will evaporate off. | ||
| Kalali |
Would it be better to have the wheels (or just the rear wheel) off the ground using stands to take load off the shock/fork? | ||
| Skntpig |
There is no benefit of starting it and letting it idle. It will make more condensation collect in the motor and won't let it get hot enough to burn it away. Batt tender and roll the tires every few weeks so they don't flatspot. | ||
| Andymnelson |
I'm not sure that I fully agree. You point about condensation is fully valid. But if the problem of tarnished fuel arises- it will tarnish from the surface of the fuel first. Since the lines, carbs, etc. all have lots of surface area for the fuel it would stand to reason that the lines could become more easily clogged. Running the bike would flush those lines with untarnished fuel from the tank. I agree that the condensation created might cause more damage than good! I just don't think I agree that there is NO benefit from running it every once in a while. | ||
| Fahren |
It's just better for it, and more fun, to actually ride it and get it fully going, than just not winterizing it and popping out to the garage from time to time to start it up. Keep a breathable cover, like a sheet, over it to keep dust off. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Andy, If memory serves the gas breaks down into due to exposure to air. The more volatile hydrocarbon components flash off leaving "varnish". This is the junk that fouls jets and such. One other consideration, the old tuber tanks don't like having fuel stored in the long term. That's one of the things that some argue leads to the paint bubbling. If the tank is full, atmospheric pressure changes and temperature fluctuation cause the fuel and vapors to migrate through the plastic tank. That's what hoses up the paint adhesion. Or so the theory goes. Me? I start running Seafoam in the gas around the Sept time frame. When the snow starts, I add a little more and call it good. I try to have less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Top it off with fresh in the spring and go riding. I also put them to bed with a fresh oil change... Brad | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
What is this winterizing thing of which you speak? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I don't park for the winter...but I used to sell to lots of folks who did, so... 1. If you're going to start the bike, RIDE IT FOR AT LEAST 45 MINUTES. Do not start it, listen to the brraaapppp-brapbrap exhaust noise, and shut it off. Not only does it create condensation, but it kills your battery (even WITH a tender). And don't forget fouled plugs. Don't tease the bike, it's mean. LOL. 2. I have never used fuel treatment. FILL the tank (it keeps air out of the tank, which as noted above is what "spoils" fuel), take it home, and run it with the petcock closed until it runs out of fuel (your profile says M2, so I assume a carb). Store it with the petcock closed, that way if your float needle fails you don't fill your cylinders with fuel. 3. Park on carpet, not bare concrete. If you have them, use pit stands...but not required. 4. If you do ride, remember - cold tires and cold roads equal MUCH LESS GRIP. I ride below 35 degrees like I'm riding in rain (and I ride in rain like I drive in snow). 5. I use a Battery Tender Jr. It is a MAINTENANCE tender - it will not resurrect a dead battery, only float-charge a living one to keep it alive through the winter. With six Buells in the garage, I have two tenders and I rotate them weekly (each bike gets one week on, two weeks off...and as I said, I do continue to ride so the batteries remain in the bikes, hooked up). 6. Salty roads might as well be a sandy beach where grip is concerned. If the road is a "different color"...it's salty, be careful. If it's the usual blacktop color, ride nearly normally but remember - it's still COLD. (see #4 above). 7. +1,000 on heated clothes. I have gloves and a jacket liner, and I can ride well into the teens with no problem. Welcome to the sickness! (Message edited by ratbuell on November 04, 2010) | ||
| Sanders |
The day I bought my buell the thermometer said 11 degrees, so definitely by some good gloves and warm clothes if you ride in the winter. I have already put the S3 up for the winter. I completely drained the tank with a siphon pump. There might only be a tablespoon of gas left in it. My fuel injected Kawi will probably just get a sheet thrown over it and nothing else. | ||
| Fasted |
some jurisdictions PREEMPTIVELY spray a liquid salt solution so it will be there sometime in the future when things get wet and cold. they cover so much mileage that it begins to look normal.. so be careful. if you feel comfy, even with all of the impediments to winter riding, it can be lots of fun, and therapeutic in a way very different from warm weather riding | ||
| Buellistic |
STORE IT FOR THE "WINTER" Class 101 1) With the bike on level ground(floor) and setting upright, TURN the gas and let the engine run until the engine QUITS(leave the gas off) ... 2) Tie your key to the bike or leave in the ignition switch(yes, "i" lost my KEY) so you can find it when you decide to ride again ... 3) Put 1 oz. of STA-BIL Fuel Stabiizer(buy at Wal-Mart) per 2 1/2 gallons of gas.. 4) Get both wheels off the ground(floor) ... 5) Leave the BATTERY in the motorcycle and put on a TRICKLE CHARGER(IMHO, the BATTERY CHARGER PLUS unit is the BEST) ... 6) Cover with a motorcycle cover(completely cover) or an OLD SHEET ... |
