G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through November 22, 2010 » Drilling out a broken headbolt « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbsween
Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

All right, I've having no luck with this particular task and am thinking about new heads. There's always room for an upgrade right?

So to recap, engine mount broke while I was on the way to AMA Vintage Days. I ordered a NRHS mount and drill/extractor kit from Al, then bought a 2004 BMW R1150R.

So the Buell sat for a bit. I started working on it a week or so ago, but am having no luck drilling the bolt out. The drill bit is new, I'm using an 18V Dewalt on high rpm. I tried using a hammer drill, but that bounced the bit around and I ended up with what looks like minor collateral damage.

Here's a pick of where I'm at. What do you thing? Did I dull the bit with the hammer drill, if so can I get a replacement at a hardware store/Lowes/Home Depot?

Also does it just take an f-ing long time to drill into this bolt? I've probably been at it 30 minutes or so

drilling header bolt
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Sportyeric
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The bolt is somewhat hardened and will take a while. You should be starting with a very small bit for a pilot hole then going bigger and bigger, I think.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

The_mad_mick
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 01:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

GET A 1/8 TUNGSTEN/CARBIDE DRILL BIT A NORMAL DRILL MOTOR, CENTER PUNCH AND A SNAP/ON SHORT EASY-OUT OR A SIMILAR PRODUCT FROM A REPUTABLE TOOL DEALER.
CENTER PUNCH THE STUD , THEN SLOWLY DRILL THE STUD WITH THE 1/8 BIT, ABOUT 1/4" DEEP THEN PLACE THE EASY-OUT IN THE HOLE AND HIT IT WITH A HAMMER TILL IT LOCKS IN PLACE THEN TAKE A 1/2" (13MM) SOCKET 6" EXTENSION BAR AND RATCHET HANDLE , TURNING IT COUNTER CLOCK WISE ,AND HEY PRESTO OUT COMES THE STUD .IT TAKES ABOUT 10 MINUTES TOTAL, BUT BE CAREFUL DRILL STRAIGHT AND DON'T LET THE DRILL BIT GET TOO HOT
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

46champ
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The harder the material the slower you turn the drill bit this bolt is really hard. The hammer drill probably ruined the bit unless you are really good at sharpening. A pilot hole is a must.

(Message edited by 46champ on October 18, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbsween
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 07:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info guys. I'll give her another go and let you know how it works out

Matt
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

X1_rider
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 07:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you have access to a TIG, maybe welding a nut on the broken bit (through the nut hole, if the broken bit sticks out a little) would work.
The positioning is not ideal but I know I've taken out quite a few broken bolts with my TIG.

edit: If you try it, I suggest you remove the ECM, I always do when I weld directly on a vehicle, just to be safe.


(Message edited by x1_rider on October 18, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How about using a REVERSE FLUTE DRILL ???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Sportyeric
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Once you get going, keep in mind that the bolt is in there with red locktite so some heat on the bolt would be good.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

FRONT MOTOR MOUNT Class 101, if you want the "INFO", just PM me ...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Preybird1
Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would not use any easy out tools at all. I had 2 easy outs break in the head and they were mac brand tools. What a pita it is to get the easy out if it breaks. It took me 2 hours of grinding to get the bad one out. The best way i have found is the reverse drill bit option or the welding of a nut to the old material and just turning it out. Patience and drill slow and straight, Don't try and drill fast just go slow and use mild pressure or you will just burn the bit and it will not do its job.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbsween
Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for all the good info, I got close but ended up with a cracking noise and well, let's just say it wasn't the bolt letting go....

Some things I learned. Titanium bits seemed to work better than cobalt bits.

The drill worked fine with the slow speed.

The pilot method really helps

Patience....Patience.....patience, this take awhile.

So I was thrilled when I got the hole deep enough for the extractor I got from Al (American Sport Bike). I must have been wiggling the drill as the hole I drilled was the correct bit for the extractor, but the extractor wouldn't bite. I tried a different extract (Craftsman) and it all seemed to be going well, then there was a sharp release on the ratchet (it was only a 3/8 about 10" long) and well then I saw the cracks. View from the front


head damage front


View from the side


head damage 2


So looks like I'll be buying a new head. Since I have the NRHS mount for the thunderstorm head. I'll just replace with a stock one.

Any recommendations on where to buy?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

REVERSE FLUTE DRILL !!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Terrycoxusa
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

sometimes you can get a small grinder bit and grind the bolt almost all the way out to the threads,after you drill a pilot hole, and then try an ez out, or carefully grind all the way to the threads and clean it up with a tap. Has anyone drilled out the whole thing and put in a heli coil?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Scott_in_nh
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Umm, look closer guys, he cracked the boss on the head. Getting the stud out is no longer the only problem.

Yes the head has to now come off, but from everything I've seen here, it can be welded up and machined as good as new for a lot fewer $$ than a new head - just saying...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bummer. Looks like you had the hole off to one side, and it was unfortunately the less supported side... though perhaps it wouldn't have mattered.

Centering that hole is really hard, and recentering it after things go wrong is next to impossible.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

5liter
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That looks familiar. Same thing occurred here. New head installed along with the NRHS mount.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbsween
Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 04:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

5liter,
Wish I didn't join the club, but now that I have I was wondering what you did with rear cylinder when this happened to you. How many miles did you have on the bike? (I have around 45k)

Did you have the rear head "renewed" (for lack of a better term ) or did you just bolt the new head on and go from there?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

5liter
Posted on Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I didn't do anything to the rear head. I had about 49,000 on it when it happened. I thought I had the drill hole centered on mine and it was backing out just fine and then........... Franklin fix!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbsween
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah,
I hear you I was extremely excited when the drill started working and was ecstatic when the bolt "broke" loose. Then reality intruded on my party.......

I'm probably going to do a 1250 kit and new heads, cuz the head gasket and base gaskets are leaking and you know they need fixing and since I'm in there ........
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

5liter
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My front base gasket was starting to weep, so I guess the bike was telling me to fix the base gasket. It didn't tell me to put in a 1250 kit.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellbozo
Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Any machine shop with a ram type EDM can burn that bolt out so sweet, there'll be s little curly cue of material left in the threads that you can pull out with needle nose and save as "art".

Weld the crack, tap the thread, and roll on.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration